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Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:41 am

Hello,

I have a 65 Standard which needs the following metal - Basically the entire floor, thanks to Iowa road salt

-Both B Pillars - Lower 9 inches
-Bother Rockers - inner outer
-All Outriggers
-All Jack points
-Front Floor
-Cargo Floor

I have been planning to build the hoop style rotisserie, but now I am reconsidering and thinking of just stilts/dollies.

I thought I neeed the rotisseries for the following reasons.
1. Can't MIG weld upside down, rotisserie would allow me at least get outriggers, and rocker at 45 to ground for welding
2. Rotisserie would be handy to have under body sand blasted.

Looking for input

Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:49 am

You can mig upside down, thats not a problem. Just don't run a big nasty bead that drops on you.

I am building a rotisserie because I am tired of getting crap in my face and working on my back. Also, i plan on using it for the next 50 years and various bus projects!

If you are going to be once and done and don't plan on another resto, it would be hard to justify the expense and time to build one, in my opinion.

You can get by on stands for what you need to do.

Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:02 am

or sell the hoops when you're done. I'm sure you can always find a buyer.

Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:13 am

I sold mine for the same $1200 I paid for it, I lost the $800 more I had into it (lowering it/extra wheels, plates to mount it ect.) but used it 4 winters w/ out laying on my back- I'll live w/ the $200/year cost.

Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:41 pm

I built this for about $400 and it holds the frame very square while replacing the floor and all the cross members and outriggers.

All the work you listed is what I am doing to my bus with this tipper dolly.

Gordo.

Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:00 pm

Nice bus gordo:) looks straight and nice patina:) Awesome rotisserie!

Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:39 am

flemcadiddlehopper wrote: I built this for about $400 and it holds the frame very square while replacing the floor and all the cross members and outriggers.

Gordo.

Please share the gauge/thickness of steel tubing you used here Gordo. I plan to build one of these, and would prefer to use the thinnest steel possible, to keep down weight and cost, without compromising needed strength. Looks like you're using around 1/4". I wonder if 1/8" would work... no need to overkill, but don't want to underkill either!

Thank you.

David

Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:19 am

Lots of info here, too:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=175412

Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:35 am

Culito wrote: Lots of info here, too:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=175412

Thanks Culito. I actually had read that thread, but didn't think it included steel wall thickness. It does;

MICHANICAL™ wrote:
Step two: Cut your 0.23622047 decimal inch wall thickness 2" x 2" tubing...

Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:46 pm

I had no problems welding up rockers and jack points without a rotisserie. Also, if you are removing large chunks of floor, an improperly supported chassis on a rotisserie could be big trouble. I've never done floors, but I think most floor replacements are done from above the floor with plug welds to the cross members.

Having never used one, I don't see how they are that useful unless you are doing a lot of under body painting and cleaning. If you just want your work at standing height instead of kneeling height, dig a 3' deep hole next to your driveway (or put the stripped chassis on some rolling saw horse dolly contraption)

Tue Apr 17, 2012 6:30 pm

somewhere in South island surf's build thread he has some dimensions to work from. That is where I got my dimensions from to start.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=491474&highlight=

Hope that link works...he is like a magic man, with what he's done. Just some props to a fellow Canadian.

Gordo.