| rat bastard |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:29 am |
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hi guys,
im a new guys from phillipines. i have a problem with my 1975 vw brazilian bug after changing the oil, tune up (new points, condenser and spark plugs) and carb overhual. my bug runs perfectly fine before doing all those things, then suddeny she's having a mystery.
1 click start when she's cold and runs fine, then after a few minutes drive around the city, she stalls and dies and wont start when hot. engine compartment smells hot along with hot ignition coil and tins but the dipstick is tolerable to hold and there's no fuel in the fuel filter but there's enough gasoline in the tank. i am suspecting a bad ignition coil so we change the coil (bosch blue) from a diffent bug but same thing happens. we even change the the whole distributor together with the sets of condenser and points properly gap from the other bug again. and then thinking that we bought a fake or defective bosch platinum spark plugs so we decided to change it again. but still having the same problem.
i would greatly appreciate your help and insight with my problem.
thanks in advance |
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| gp98 |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:21 am |
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| I'm sure others will post and be helpful, have you checked choke opening when warm, idle solenoid,? Good luck :) |
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| gp98 |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:23 am |
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| elec. fuel pump or stock? |
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| gp98 |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:25 am |
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| fuel issue, elec. or stock? |
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| rat bastard |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 10:16 am |
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thanks for the quick response guys, appreciate it. i'm currently using all stock set up.
by the way, fuel tank and lines was checked and cleaned and fuel filter got replaced. |
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| rat bastard |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 11:21 am |
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gp98 wrote: I'm sure others will post and be helpful, have you checked choke opening when warm, idle solenoid,? Good luck :)
not yet sir. is the choke opening should be the same when cold and how will i check the idle solenoid?
i apologize if i have too many question, i'm just a newbie. |
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| jrny99 |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 3:00 pm |
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rat bastard wrote: gp98 wrote: I'm sure others will post and be helpful, have you checked choke opening when warm, idle solenoid,? Good luck :)
not yet sir. is the choke opening should be the same when cold and how will i check the idle solenoid?
i apologize if i have too many question, i'm just a newbie.
the guy who worked on my bug (me) put the wires + - to the coil in the wrong place and she was running hot, coil smoking and the condensor fired..
only 1 wire form the distributor goes to the neg side of the coil. learned the hard way |
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| gp98 |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 3:27 pm |
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With key in on position(engine off!) remove wire from solenoid
Then touch and remove, you should hear it click if ok |
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| JerryMCarter1 |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 6:22 pm |
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Not so sure about platinum plugs you had better check this my 1600 takes a NGK B6HS 7534.
Running hot usually means that you have a timing spark issue.
I would not drive it until you go back over all of the settings
Jerry |
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| 65'1300Deluxe |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:05 pm |
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| Is it possibly the fuel pump Bakelite flange squeezing the fuel pump pushrod tight when it gets warm? Someone on here had a similar problem, and it was related to that. A little grease might help. |
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| JerryMCarter1 |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:14 pm |
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For myself I gave up on the mechanical -- mostly because if the diaphragm fails it pumps gas directly into the crank case -- which means --the end.
Luckily one day I pulled my dipstick and smelled gas --
I made a little 1/4 plate plug off and went to a 3.5 pump -- best thing I ever did-- just one more thing not to worry about on these bugs
Jerry |
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| flyboat |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:26 pm |
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| I agree with another poster. Go back over your work. It sounds like the timing is off and or the fuel mixture is lean. If all these check out ok, remove the main jet and clean it. I had had a problem with a piece of trash intermittantly getting in the way of the main jet and causing the car to die or only idle. Remove the pilot jet and blow air into it. This will force air in other orfices helping dislodge any trash. |
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| rat bastard |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 11:48 pm |
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thanks for all your quick response and ideas. i'll work on that this weekend and let you know if i beat thrash out of my bug.
another question, would it help if i mount my ignition coil in the firewall since the tin is also hot?
anyway's it summer here and freakin hot. but last summer we used to bring her for a long road trip and went just fine.
BTW here's the picture of my engine and just sharing the pictures of my hardcore bug.
[img]
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| Joel |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:40 am |
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It wouldn't surprise me if your just getting abit of vapor lock.
That big hole in the breast plate tin where the car has had an A/C compressor bracket installed in a past life is directly above the #4 exhaust manifold where it's at its hottest coming out of the head.
Also Directly above that hole is your fuel filter.
hot air rises and fuel pumps cant pump vapor, engine stops... |
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| rat bastard |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:50 am |
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Joel wrote: It wouldn't surprise me if your just getting abit of vapor lock.
That big hole in the breast plate tin where the car has had an A/C compressor bracket installed in a past life is directly above the #4 exhaust manifold where it's at its hottest coming out of the head.
Also Directly above that hole is your fuel filter.
hot air rises and fuel pumps cant pump vapor, engine stops...
HMMM. fuel filter could be the cuase? vapor lock? so do i have to remove the fuel filter inside the engine compartment or can i just wrap by it by any heat insulator thing? the reason why i let the fuel filter there so i can check immedietly if theres fuel when the car dies or whenever times of trouble on the road. |
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| Joel |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:57 am |
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Just the fact the filter is so close to heat sources.
Its got that hole in the tinware straight below it plus its sitting on top of the head tinware.
Get the filter out of the engine bay away from heat and fit it in the flex lines under the tank or beside the trans/ |
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| rat bastard |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 5:39 am |
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| i'll take note of that sir. but is there any way that i cn easily see or check the fuel filter w/o looking under? |
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| ashman40 |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:12 am |
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rat bastard wrote: and then thinking that we bought a fake or defective bosch platinum spark plugs so we decided to change it again. but still having the same problem.
Were your old spark plugs Bosch Platinums?
As a test, try putting the old plugs back in. |
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| schadenfreude |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:14 am |
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it's over heating.
that is caused by up to 30 reasons.
http://ac-vw.com/How_to_fix_it/overheating.html
the biggest problem is
safety ( posters telling you to get the filter where it is cool (away from exh heat) and not near the distributor is RIGHT ON)
put the filter near the left rear frame head just where the fuel line emerges .
or under the fuel tank.
then overheating. (safety first , no?)
are you asking how to look under the car with out actually going there?
engine overheating;
fueling too lean. (BAD CARB, or loss of fuel flow to carb) if the float level drops running, that is hopeless , fix that, be it vapor lock , or bad pump,etc.)
timing too advanced or retarded (do you own a timing light (a strobe)?
missing tins,
flaps stuck closed, or missing flap spring with missing thermostat.
sucking hot air in the the fan due to missing tins.
my guess is you will have problems in each area.
your post gets gets a 5 star rating for showing a photo. few do. |
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| rat bastard |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:33 am |
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[/quote]
Were your old spark plugs Bosch Platinums?
As a test, try putting the old plugs back in.[/quote]
yup, i already put the olds back. |
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