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Sun Apr 22, 2012 1:42 pm

Guys,
Kadrons are a very popular dual carb installation on bay window buses. Probably because people think dual carbs are bitchen and the Kadrons are the cheapest set of aftermarket duals you can buy. So, using a synchrometer on Kads is tough because of the air filter bracket that blocks the throat. People commonly make some kind of adapter to get around that problem. Added to that when you have them in a 1968-1972 bus you don't have the upper hatch to help. So, this weekend I worked on two buses and both have Kads. I couldn't synch them yet because I need an adapter. One is on order from Airhead Parts but I'd like to see a pics of yours if you have one. I'm thinking that for the bus you'd need some kind of 45 degree angle to clear the ceiling. So, please post up a pic of what you use. The blue DC is running like crap because the carbs are out of synch.

Sun Apr 22, 2012 2:22 pm

Hi,

no doubt you've reached the end of a road and decided sync-ing is the only route but I almost convinced myself I needed one too,but you don't - normally need this

From Low buggets site - http://www.lowbugget.com/help_section.html
" Quote: As long as the linkage is set up correct than the use of a sync tool is not needed. Why? The Kadron carb is a plenum base setup. Trying to synchronize these carbs is like trying to synchronize one of the barrels on a 4- barrel Holley® carb. There is a open plenum that is shared by more than one cylinder under the carb. "You are wasting your time". Check that each carb opens at the same time and will reach full open at the same time. If you want to set the carbs correctly than use a vacuum gauge and set at the highest vacuum reading at idle.. you may need to take the stock linkage off, so it is not pushing / pulling on the carb arms.

This may or may not help but this guy is pretty up on these carbs and having recently finished rebuilding and dialling in mine I didn't find I needed one.

PG

Sun Apr 22, 2012 2:40 pm

pringles can

from http://bodeswell.org/tag/vw-bus/page/6/

Sun Apr 22, 2012 2:55 pm

Wanna do something really cool - incredibly accurate and cheap? See my post at the end
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2...p;start=20

Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:39 pm

The red piece came with the sync tool. I cut it in half. It works great for a bug but as you already know... not a bus. Then I had the 2 in. street 90 in a bucket of parts in my shop. I like simple.

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Mon Apr 23, 2012 6:21 am

ned wrote: The red piece came with the sync tool. I cut it in half. It works great for a bug but as you already know... not a bus. Then I had the 2 in. street 90 in a bucket of parts in my shop. I like simple.

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Now we're getting somewhere. I just wish I had the red piece. So let me ask you this ned... your carbs are using a balance tube, right? I assume that you'd want to plug the tube, disconnect the linkage, and then synch them. Is that how you do it?

Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:27 am

The only tube connecting the carbs is the brakebooster tube. I drive 71`s. I disconnect the linkage then balance. I have never plugged the booster tube. Maybe performance forum?

Mon May 07, 2012 6:57 pm

Okay, here's an update on what I did. I made an adapter out of a PVC 90 degree elbow.

I had to cut two indents on the inside of the elbow to allow for the air cleaner riser bosses on the top of the carbs and then used some foam rubber with a self adhesive side to it that seals to the top of the carb throat.

Then I used some other rubber to adapt the inside diameter of the elbow to the size of the sychrometer.

Today I finally was able to use it and it worked really well. By the time I was done the engine ran great.

Mon May 07, 2012 7:33 pm

aeromech wrote: Guys,
Kadrons are a very popular dual carb installation on bay window buses. Probably because people think dual carbs are bitchen and the Kadrons are the cheapest set of aftermarket duals you can buy. So, using a synchrometer on Kads is tough because of the air filter bracket that blocks the throat. People commonly make some kind of adapter to get around that problem. Added to that when you have them in a 1968-1972 bus you don't have the upper hatch to help. So, this weekend I worked on two buses and both have Kads. I couldn't synch them yet because I need an adapter. One is on order from Airhead Parts but I'd like to see a pics of yours if you have one. I'm thinking that for the bus you'd need some kind of 45 degree angle to clear the ceiling. So, please post up a pic of what you use. The blue DC is running like crap because the carbs are out of synch.

Ken Endicot ( a superior line mechanic) and Jack Frost showed me a trick with just a length of fuel line and a working human ear.

First both throttle plates have to be in the same plane. I set them to the stop and open 1/2 turn (linkage disconnected).

Then the idle mixture must be the same- it can be wrong, but they have to be the same.

Put the hose the same distance into the carb throat and listen to the vacuum. Adjust the mixture till the sounds out of both carbs are the same.

Now reduce or increase the throttles equally till they both sound the same and are at the right idle speed.

Go back to the mixture and fine tune the engine for smooth idle.

Mon May 07, 2012 9:12 pm

So, your point is?

Tue May 08, 2012 4:18 am

Nice work Gary!!!

Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:44 pm

I also had a problem synching my dual 34ICTS with my snail tool. Using your pics (Thanks by the way!) I made an adapter, about 4 inches tall, just like yours but going straight for my bug and just using black electrical tape on the inside of the pvc pipe for the seal. Works awesome! =D> Sure beats buying an adapter !!!

Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:57 pm

glad to hear it

Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:15 pm

Do you have a pic of your snail? Mine doesn't show any brand or part number, all it says is syncrometer on the scale. The rubber cone base of it fits perfectly into the CB's filter bases on the Weber ICT's.
I did have to modify the snail to make it worthwhine. It sits so high against the top of the engine compartment it was real hard to read the scale. And also the indicator was up near the top part of the scale. So I drilled a couple 1/2" holes in the body to draw in outside air. That puts the indicator more in the mid range of the scale like scales and gauges should be. And that puts the indicator down lower so I can easily read it.

Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:30 am

So I drilled a couple 1/2" holes in the body to draw in outside air

Great idea Mike. Just as long as they are equal sized holes.

Mon Jul 02, 2012 2:45 pm

aeromech wrote: So I drilled a couple 1/2" holes in the body to draw in outside air

Great idea Mike. Just as long as they are equal sized holes.

Makes no difference whatsoever. It's the total size of holes that matters. Could have been one big one or 10 little ones, or slots or whatever.

The only purpose was to allow additional outside air to be drawn in before the flow meter so less air was going thru the flowmeter. The kg/h scale now is not accurate but it doesn't matter at all since the only purpose was to compare both carbs for equal flow.

Wed Jul 04, 2012 12:19 pm

Here is my adaption:

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