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Tue Apr 24, 2012 12:27 am

They have different length thermalcouples 6',10', 14' but the only one that specifically states that it uses a 14mm ring for spark plug is 18 friggin' feet long! All others are 1/2" rings. So what did you order? Are we supposed to just bunch up all that excess wire and go with the 18' kit?
Thanks

Tue Apr 24, 2012 4:17 am

I got the 18 footer. Yes, it is too long but the 14 was going to be too short. I used a piece of string to map out the probable route of the wire. I haven't installed it yet.

Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:19 am

Yep 18ft, in a ghia there was not that much extra to wind up. SOOOO much better than a VDO.

Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:32 am

18 feet in a bug fits fine. I ran the wire from the engine bay to the passenger compartment, coiled a few feet of extra under the rear seat, rubber banded it together, and continued to run the line to my gauge. Working great.

Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:14 am

How are you guys attaching it to the spark plug? Are you putting it below the crush washer so it contacts the head directly or can the crush washer be spun off so it can be installed above it or are you eliminating the washer all together? While I'm on the subject does everyone generally use antiseize on their plugs?
Thanks

Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:21 am

Remove the crush washer on that plug only so it sits the right depth in the head. Use a very light coat of antiseize. There is a thread that says NGK recommends no anti seize because they have a special coating to prevent galling/sticking. My thought is that the coating is designed to work the first time you install/remove... what about every time after that? Some say anti-seize caused them problems with the plug not grounding. That's why I say "very light" coat.

Tue Apr 24, 2012 12:05 pm

I trust you have been here?

http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/customer/home.php?gspage=customer/main/tech/cht/cht_install.tpl

Tue Apr 24, 2012 12:58 pm

Yes, I guess I just don't like the idea of loosing a washer that was designed to be on the plug...

Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:14 pm

Not sure it helps but I bought this one:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480297

Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:38 pm

I also have the 18' lead with the DD CHT. At first I tossed the crush washer and placed the sensor between the plug and head....BUT, the sensor ring spun with the sparkplug and fubared. Then I got another sensor ring and sat it between the crush washer and the head. Thus allowing the plug to spin on the crush washer. Sure, my plug may not be sitting at optimal depth, but it is an almost stock 1600. Head temp reads good, engine runs well.

Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:48 pm

Babysnakes, that's exactly the kind of issue I want to avoid, I can't see how leaving the crush washer on and having one plug maybe 1/16th of an inch different in depth than the others could possibly make any difference whatsoever?

Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:58 pm

I have the one like Vincent, nice little unit. Regardless, you have to do something like this so the sender doesn't hopelessly spin:

A connector like this in the engine compartment should prove handy as well, just make sure it's K thermocouple compatible:
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Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:16 pm

Nice, where did you get the coupling?

Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:45 pm

Ebay, search "themocouple connector" and you'll find plenty.

Thu Apr 26, 2012 3:32 am

Lyle, using these type of connectors can you cut or shorten the wire supplied with the Dakota K thermocouples?

Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:34 pm

Sorry for so long in getting back but I wanted to test.
So, I just tested my Sensor Connection gauge/sender in boiling water. I tested using just the 15" or so of the actual sender lead connected directly to the gauge and then the entire 12 feet of sender wire (going through that yellow K connector). Same readings on gauge both times with the water boiling, so length makes no difference.
My gauge is temperature compensated like the Dakota and I would imagine the circuitry is the same so I would bet that length of sender makes no difference on the Dakota as well.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:39 pm

I just talked to Dakota today and they didn't recommend a quick disconnect coupling they said it might affect the millivolts . They said there thermocouple has a disconnect but it's inside shrink tubing of the wire assembly, I guess it's just easier to pull the plug if I have to remove the engine.

Tue May 01, 2012 2:41 am

Thanks Lyle for testing that, and an interesting response fro the Dakota folk.
I'll have my car apart in a month or so, I'll give the testing a go with a coupling on my dakota set up 'cos I'm keen to have a quick disconnect on custom length wire.

Tue May 01, 2012 7:53 am

rrcade wrote: I just talked to Dakota today and they didn't recommend a quick disconnect coupling they said it might affect the millivolts . They said there thermocouple has a disconnect but it's inside shrink tubing of the wire assembly, I guess it's just easier to pull the plug if I have to remove the engine.

I think they were assuming you meant standard wire connector quick connects. The thermocouple connector pictured above is the correct method for connection. The DD gauge comes with small nuts/bolts for the connections which isn't ideal.

Tue May 15, 2012 2:14 pm

Finally got my Dakota CHT kit, for those who have this one, is that black cover that goes over your nut and bolt connections of the wiring supposed to be heat shrink material or do you just pull it over your connections?