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Eric&Barb Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:28 am

BrettBrokaw wrote:
I cant check the dwell cause i dont have the Tachometer.
Lastly i have found the fuel filter just behind the engine bay by the transmission.
Its the small tiny filter but I have a bigger, new one i can exchange it with.
There was a little debris inside (small paper thing like substance that sits at the bottom of the filter. otherwise it looks very clean.
Would it be ok to switch to the bigger fuel filter?

You can get one of these "Sears Engine Analyzer", Ebay or swap meets are a good source for used ones at a low price:



Got ours for about $25.00, including shipping.

The rear bumper is rear of the engine. Transaxle and the fuel filter you describe are forward of the engine.

A bigger filter is fine, BUT it has to fit the hoses. Needs to be not too big or small, but just right. Hose clamps do not hurt, and using German cloth covered fuel line has worked well for us over the last two decades.

BrettBrokaw Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:56 am

Well everything seems good when i took the car out this morning after the adjustments, but ill give the filter a try as well. cant hurt.

Ill look into buying something like that lol. Cant hurt to have one of every tool.

I plan on replacing the hoses for the whole fuel system anyways (except the new ones of course) because the car has always had issue with the smell of gas inside the car. I think everything has been replaced once except the gas tank.
That is the original tank that came with the car and i figure new hoses + new tank = no smell?
usually only when the tank is filled up and till about 3/4th full.

Thanks everyone for the help. I hope this fixes the problem at least for awhile till something new pops up lol

BrettBrokaw Sat Apr 28, 2012 12:11 pm

After a second look im not sure if the new filter is a good fit or not. Ill have to see if i can get a small one or something. The current one is clean but im thinking maybe i can dump the particles out and at least it will have that out.

Checked my timing again before i went for a test drive. Its still acting up but not making a pop as bad as before. I would check the jets but im not too sure how to access all that stuff.

When i got back I played with the timing a little more and it settled down while in idle. its back to its original spot (10BTDC).

dan macmillan Sat Apr 28, 2012 12:46 pm

If you suspect dirt in the carb, remove the air filter, start the engine and bring it up to about 2000 rpm using your hand on the throttle arm, while at this speed momentarily seal off the top of the carb with your other hand {one side at a time is fine}. This will cause a lot of vacuum and will draw a lot of fuel and dirt out of the passeges. Your engine will slow down and try to stall. When it does, unseal the carb and recover the engine using the throttle. Repeat a few times on each side.

BrettBrokaw Sat Apr 28, 2012 1:30 pm

Ok, so i just finished doing that. I noticed that the right side or the carb wouldnt act as bad as the left when covered the top with my palm.
it would die down but woudlnt be fussy when i tried to recover.
The left side would die down and i would uncover and recover the rpms, but it would struggle a bit while accelerating and slightly pop then go back to normal.

Would this mean that the left side might be clogged?

LittleMicroCars Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:29 pm

Brett.. I think I can help you with your problem >I have made it one of my goals last year to conquer the single dual carb on a bug... First you must realize the carb works well with duel carbs because its so close to the intake valve. and its a straight shot in the hole.. With the dellorto or weber single dual throat you must realize that the venturi's are way way to big the problem is on start up you have no air speed to mix the fuel that is pouring into the throat. that type of carb mounted in the middle of the engine will only work at full throttle. You must take out the venturis and have a set of 25mm venturi's made for your carb.. and set aside the original 40mm 44mm 48mm monsters that it came with....at that point you can install 150 main jets and then start working on the low and mid range settings with leaner jets until things start to happen... Im surprised it runs at all. I have some posts under cross fire intake manifolds. and some stuff on utube. Another super beatle specialists is Topline in Anaheim California .He has a master file on all the engines he has tuned to duplicate the exact setup you NOW have...Leo (Littlemicrocars)

candymustang66 Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:25 am

you dont need a dwell meter ever !
the .016" assures the dwell is well in the range of 42-58 degrees.
the coil , needs a minimum dwell to saturate magnetically. (below 42 degrees (vw min)
, well below that number, the coil will start getting weak (RTM any IGN coil maker) most likely, your coil is not orig. anyway.

DWELL is not a critical parameter, those other SEARS functions all come for free with any good DMM. vastly more portable too. (an amp clamp meter is vasty better)
tools2:
A hand held tach (opto) is better, so you can read the rpm of ANYTHING. gen, fan, crank. , any car, any motor, diesel, boat motor, lawn mower, all.

the key points on that motor, just looking at your photos
are the carbs too big for your motor? really easy to do .
read bill Fisher book on that.... make low end tuning is impossible over carburetor'd.
not saying it is. just 1 thing to check.

next.
that 009 (is it?) is it a clone or a real Bosch 0231-178-009
if real the advance curve is really good, for stock motors.
stock in compression ratio.
the clones can be horrible, with real late or weak advance.
check it . check starting and ending advance RPM (called rate of advance)

next is (after spark timing , matches your motor modifications)

last , tune the carbs.


what displacement. is the engine.?
what is the CR ( did the builder, add barrel shims at the last rebuild to make CR near stock OR, is it running a huge CR needing premium high octane fuel)
are the intake manifold gaskets (and boots) 100% leak free?
and get a real 009 ,not a clone.

im not sure what carb that is, but does it NOT need synchronization?
and the manifold , has no balance tube. (a key point here)
read bill fishers comments on that and the plenum mods he made to get
these to work right.



BrettBrokaw Mon May 14, 2012 9:49 pm

Hey guys, I got the bug running back to its old self recently. Apparently it was a condenser issue and just needed replaced. Im assuming it was an original part that over the years of shaking around with the engine (Motor mounts need replaced) had broke the copper wires and couldnt create a constant flow of power.

but anyways, thank you guys for all the help and hopefully this helps anyone with the same problems.

Eric&Barb Tue May 15, 2012 6:06 am

Good to hear you have it fixed.

Get some hose clamps on the fresh air tubes. Otherwise they can pop off and fry a head.

candymustang66 Tue May 15, 2012 6:36 am

great just a wire ! , and no need to buy a silly dwell meter..

the condenser is a capacitor and must be grounded and connected
or the spark will be about 3/4's weak. (I have videos to demo that)
the condenser is subject lots of heat and vibration, and shortens it's life.

so maybe replace it every 2 or 3 points change. as a service point PM check.
the condenser not only makes the points last longer, but also lets
the coil RING as it sparks, making the spark last longer when it fires.
this ringing can be see on a scope. and is very important that part.
I use a real Bosch condenser, it costs more, but is a better longer lasting part.



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