| bajorek |
Sun Aug 24, 2003 6:28 pm |
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***This question pertains to a T-4 2.0 engine***
Do you check oil level when the engine is cold, or do you check it when it is warmed up?
I can see it go either way: cold- all oil is in pan, so you know how much is in engine; warm- oil is in engine, so you know how much you need to max.
Educate me on the fine art of air cooled oil checking.
Also, do you change the filter every time, or every 2x? What about the screen? |
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| A.J. Adams |
Sun Aug 24, 2003 6:50 pm |
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I check it cold. The maunal on pg 56 doesn't say. it says "the car should be on level ground. After turning off the engine, wait a few minutes for he oil to return to the crankcase."
The manual say the filter should be changed "at specific intervals."
I use a Fram HP-1 oil filter. It holds more oil, has a larger filter area, larger oil holes, and is easier to change, due to it's longer case. |
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| bajorek |
Sun Aug 24, 2003 6:59 pm |
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If I check it cold, as in first thing in the morning, and it is sitting level, and the oil is up to the top line=it is good. If it is low, I add more. This is what I've been doing, but my pushrod tubes leak- a few drips when parked, splashes on back while driving.
When I check the oil after it's been warmed, say maybe long enough to drive 10 minutes to get gas- after 1-2 minute warm up before I take off, and it looks low- halfway, or at bottom mark. Do I add more?? There's no way i'm leaking that much, my back end would be soaked and I'd leave huge puddles. |
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| jeremysmithatshawdotca |
Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:46 pm |
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| T me it makes more sense to check it cold. Think about when you change the oil. You're filling it up to the upper line with cold oil when you refill it. If I'm checking when fuelling, I usually do it once I've finished with the gas to give it some time for the oil to come down into the pan. I do check how hot the dipstick feels while I'm fuelling though, to gauge if its running hot or not. Jeremy |
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| Amskeptic |
Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:52 pm |
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bajorek wrote: If I check it cold, as in first thing in the morning, and it is sitting level, and the oil is up to the top line=it is good. If it is low, I add more. This is what I've been doing, but my pushrod tubes leak- a few drips when parked, splashes on back while driving.
When I check the oil after it's been warmed, say maybe long enough to drive 10 minutes to get gas- after 1-2 minute warm up before I take off, and it looks low- halfway, or at bottom mark. Do I add more?? There's no way i'm leaking that much, my back end would be soaked and I'd leave huge puddles.
Strive to keep the oil level at the full mark with a cold engine. If you are doing a quicky check out on the highway, just make sure it is between the marks. Record in your mind how much the full mark check *cold* drops in your ten minutes to the gas station run when you check it warm. Then *you* decide how much oil has migrated out to the heads and whatnot.
Fix the oil leaks, your engine will thank you.
Colin |
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| Thor |
Thu Oct 02, 2003 9:19 am |
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Bajorek mentioned the screen, Are you supposed to pull it and clean it every time? I watched the BUG ME video Vol1 maintenance, but that was a TYPE 1 engine. I went down and asked my VW Repair shop for a Oil Gasket kit, He said do not even mess with it. Only swap out the oil filters.
I have the t-4 2.0 fi engine as well.
Is that right? Swap out oil filter every 3000 or every other?
Thanks guys |
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| whip618 |
Thu Oct 02, 2003 9:43 am |
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I drive my 74 bus everyday so I always check my oil in the morning
before startup, unless I,m on a road trip then I check at every gas stop.
I change the oil and filter every three thousand miles, my 2ltr. seems to
like that routine.
You guys that are running fram filters may want to read this article http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html it has some good info on the quality of oil filters.
Phil |
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| ratwell |
Thu Oct 02, 2003 10:01 am |
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The manual says change oil, replace filter and clean screen all at the same interval.
The screen gets crud in it (doing it's job) and the gaskets are dirt cheap. What's hard it torquing the nut to 9 ft. lbs. and no more. Too little and you'll leak like crazy, too much and you'll damage a boss inside the inside that bolts the pickup tube to the underside of the camshaft. |
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