TheSamba.com :: View topic - Misadventures of the Mechanically Inept: My First Buggy

Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:14 am

Hello Everyone.

I am new to VW's, well actually to working on cars in general. I am a paper pusher by trade. Two years ago I started working on old Honda scooters in the garage to kill time and to familiarize myself to motors in general, something I always regretted not doing when I was younger. Now I am fortunate enough to have inherited a buggy from my parents backyard.

This has been sitting in the backyard since they bought it in 2006, mostly uncovered that whole time. I will use this thread to chronicle my misadventures.

Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:31 am

I was able to determine that the pan is a '64 and the engine '74.

Here is a list of repairs that were done to it in September 06 straight from the bill:

* Replace main seal
* Clean carb
* Brake work - repair e-brake and replace hoses
* Tune-up and valve adjustment
* Change oil & filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
* Set timing & fuel mixture
* Replace front end link & king pins
* Replace transaxle boots.
* Weld clutch tube

Compression:

1: 100
2: 115
3: 115
4: 115

The buggy has been driven maybe 100 miles since all of this was done.

First thing I noticed is that it would not shift into 3rd and 4th. After some searching on theSamba, I decided to tackle the shift rod bushing. After dropping the damn thing i the tunnel 4 times, I was finally able to get it on there. I also noticed that the bolts on the couple her loose, resulting in a lot of play. I tightened them down and now everything is shifting much better. I wonder if I should replace the couple?

Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:34 am

The left valve cover was cracked and leaking lots of oil. I replaced this yesterday as well. I bought a new one for the other side but didn't change it because it is not leaking (yet).

The pan appears to have remnants of the old carpet on it. I am wondering if I should attempt to remove it, or just sand it down and add some bedliner.

Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:03 pm

Wash it, wax it... Drive it like you stole it.... Its spring/ summer... enjoy it... Make long terms plans on what to do with it this winter... OH, wait, you live is So CAL... You dont have winter.....

Just do what ever it take to make it runnable through summer and then you will have better idea on how to improve on it when the riding season lulls....

Dale

Sun Apr 29, 2012 3:20 pm

Time for another oil change for sure. That shift coupler is different from the post 68 ones - rubber does look bad so I'd replace it. Id get some rubber mats to cover interior floor and shifter tunnel. Can't really sand asphalt sound deadener.

Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:24 pm

What's the metal tube that's floating beside the right side of the tunnel? Might want to reroute or secure it somewhat. Looks like a nice buggy. Enjoy it!

Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:36 pm

That tube sure looks like fuel line.

I have to agree with Dale,

"Wash it, wax it... Drive it like you stole it.... Its spring/ summer... enjoy it... Make long terms plans on what to do with it this winter... "

I would also figure out a way to safety wire the screws on the shift coupler.

Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:41 pm

The silver tubing is the fuel line. Can I just fasten it to the tunnel with a few of these?

Here is another shot of the interior.

This is something that really needs to be addressed. Any idea what this is from? Are the turning brakes some sort of kit that gets welded in and maybe the PO didn't install it right?

Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:44 pm

I also need to move the seats back and figure out how to get more distance between the pedals - I feel like I am driving a go-kart.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:16 am

That crack is pretty crucial. The tunnel is an integral part of the structure of the car. Fix that as soon as you can - if you stand in the middle of the car on the tunnel, and that crack closes, there are other issues at hand.

The fuel line.. you can fasten it with those clips, but better to route it out of the passenger compartment so it doesn't get kicked, kinked and busted.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:48 am

some say its a problem in the passenger compartment. mine had been run the same way. still is actually, just clamped it alongside of the tunnel to keep it secure and out of the way. but watch for rubbing where it may break. yes, optimally, rerun it through the tunnel where it should be. but not crucial to the operation of the buggy.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:53 am

x2 on Letterman7 above. To repair that crack - grind off all old weld back to shiny metal, plate with 3/16: weld a little, heat with a torch to form it around the tunnel, then weld, etc. until you basically have a new center tunnel. When that crack makes it all the way through, you are in immediate danger!

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:23 pm

Oh the Calamity!

I drove the buggy to work today. Went to grab a bite to eat for lunch and noticed the shifter was loose and not engaging at all. I popped off the shifter assembly and discovered the bad news: my shift rod hanger is now broken. I did noticed it was really thin when I changed the bushing this weekend.

As I sit here typing, I am waiting for AAA to take me home.

Sat May 05, 2012 8:53 pm

Well, I managed to fix the hanger. After searching some threads here, I drilled out the old welds and hammered it off. Managed to fish out the old hanger and fish "in" the new one. Have to admit, that was a pain in ass but it all worked out. Cleaned the shift rod too. I took a short cut and used JB Weld.

I have a buddy with a welder coming next weekend to hopefully get the crack taken care of.

I think that I need to adjust the rear wheel camber.

Sun May 06, 2012 3:15 am

90volts wrote: some say its a problem in the passenger compartment. mine had been run the same way. still is actually, just clamped it alongside of the tunnel to keep it secure and out of the way. but watch for rubbing where it may break. yes, optimally, rerun it through the tunnel where it should be. but not crucial to the operation of the buggy.

In most states/countries running fuel into the passenger compartment is illegal.

Fri Jul 27, 2012 2:49 pm

Update:

I was able to get the cracks welded. So far so good.

I am pretty sure the carb has a leak. It seems to be leaking from the area in the red circle:

More Carb pics for reference:

Another weird issue is that when I park on my drive, sometimes the fuel filter seems to drain and it is hard to start.

I also noticed this the other day:

Some more cosmetic issues that I would like to address:

I saw a thread somewhere where I can get some sort of gasket or rubber gasket to fill the gap.

I am going to replace the gaskets on the exhaust. Is it possible to clean this up?

More to follow...

Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:14 am

You have a great starting point. You just have to decide what direction you want to go. The fact that with minimal time and dollars you seem to be using your DB is big!!! The first time I bought a DB that was pretty well sorted, looked good and was usable. Decided that the next one would be one I would build, all new parts, pretty much open budget (untill the new economy) and now almost 4 years later, I have driven it down the street twice after getting the motor hooked up. My suggestion is to get the wife and kids loving the whole DB thing. Then make the buggy yours with some changes. The only thing you cannot skip is to have functioning brakes and lights and steering. Everything else is up to what you want the buggy to do. In my case the least important thing for me was the motor. I wanted it to look good and be bullet proof. I have a single carb with a stock motor. Some of the these guys find that for them the motor is king and they would run circles around me. Pretty paint not a big deal for some, others love the bling of fancy rims and tires. I have decided that DB's are a lot like Harleys, everyone either loves them, hates them or wants to make them their own statement when they own one. Welcome!!

Sat Aug 04, 2012 12:18 am

This is something that really needs to be addressed. Any idea what this is from? Are the turning brakes some sort of kit that gets welded in and maybe the PO didn't install it right?

[/quote]

you should check the tabs that mount the rear torsion tubes to the pan...
They are located forward of the rear tire between tube and pan..
Mine were completly busted causing the whole buggy to twist , I had spider cracks in tunnel right near the ebrake handle as a result.. simular to yours,, this flexing may have also caused your shift rod to come loose... I welded and re-inforced both tabs and tunnel... I will further re-inforce the rear frame horns to my roll cage... another way to check is to stand (jump) on torsion tube (infront of rear tire) and see if the whole rear frame twists seperate from pan and body... hope this helps... also hope you dont have the same issue..

Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:52 am

More Updates:

Heard a loud banging sound from the rear driver's side, followed by some slight grinding when the wheel turns. Then a lot of fluid leaking from the rear left tire when parked. It's been sitting for 2 weeks because of my schedule but I was finally able to take a look. When I removed the drum, the entire thing was full of oil/fluid. Brake pads have chips missing, screws were just lying around or broken, the parking brake cable was completely disconnected, and the cylinder was a mess.

I ordered a rear brake rebuild kit which should be here this week. I am wondering how to clean the mess of a drum. Someone I know suggested gasoline.

I noticed there is some oil leaking from the seal. I am hoping that this is just because the nut/drum isn't providing pressure to keep it compress?

Pics will follow when I get the parts in.

Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:17 am

You would be well advised to give it a complete brake job front and rear.

Check to make sure your brake lines are in good shape but if it has been sitting for that long I would go through everything and replace with new from the master cylinder to the brake pads and cylinders.

Brake parts are not that expensive and it is well worth the piece of mind.

Also check your rubber lines for age cracking.