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Mon Apr 30, 2012 1:42 pm

Trying to figure out how much to narrow my front beam. But I'm concerned about the ride on a shockless beam. Anybody want to comment?

Mon Apr 30, 2012 1:50 pm

No shocks suck. I ran a 4" narrowed beam for 8 months. Bounced like crazy. Had some small bump steer that was just too much. Scary for my kids to ride in. Most set ups can do a 2-3" narrowed beam set up with shock towers and no mods. You want any more than that you need to pay for the custom work or go Airkweld. Trust me it sucks with no shocks.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:00 pm

A buddy went no shocks and it was actually comical watching him go down the street. I would not recommend it.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:27 pm

As I've said in the 500 other narrowed, shockless beam threads.

It's dangerous

You car will ride like shit

Your car will stop like shit because all the weight transfers to the fron unregulated

Shocks were put on cars and trucks for a reason. Only fools think they can drive without them.

brad

Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:57 pm

its putting your life in danger and others lifes in danger .if you drive on the road with no shocks . spencerfvee CaffeineJunky wrote: Trying to figure out how much to narrow my front beam. But I'm concerned about the ride on a shockless beam. Anybody want to comment?

Mon Apr 30, 2012 4:08 pm

Here we go again. There are these here opinions and there is reality. Some of the nicest and most valuable cars on this site don't have "conventional" shocks. You want shallow, completely misguided answers that are pushing their own ideals, follow what you see in this thread. If not, research is your friend.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 4:28 pm

ok . you made a statment now back it up. and tell all us people with opinions . how you can run a vw with out shocks . and bring us into your world of reality . you have the floor . spencerfvee Here we go again. There are these here opinions and there is reality. Some of the nicest and most valuable cars on this site don't have "conventional" shocks. You want shallow, completely misguided answers that are pushing their own ideals, follow what you see in this thread. If not, research is your friend.[/quote]

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:01 pm

Here's a sandrail with no shocks if that helps. 10x smoother than when it had them, but I'm sure the weight of the car would be a diferent story.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:07 pm

We we say "shocks", we are referring to the "dampening" of the rotation of the torsion arms in the front suspension. The act of mechanical "dampening" can take many different forms and doesn't have to be a conventional "shock absorber". As a matter of fact, there are vehicles that use different forms of suspension "dampening" other than a conventional "shock absorber", refering to a cylinder passing fluid through a hole to provide this so called dampening.

The truth is, i really dont give a shit whether anyone understands what i'm trying to say about shockless narrowed beams anymore. But, if you spout complete bullshit, im going to say bullshit.

This is complete bullshit.
its putting your life in danger and others lifes in danger .if you drive on the road with no shocks . spencerfvee

This is bullshit
It's dangerousYou car will ride like shit. Your car will stop like shit because all the weight transfers to the fron unregulated brad

This isnt bullshit. This is a possible bad setup.
A buddy went no shocks and it was actually comical watching him go down the street. sturgeongeneral

This isnt bullshit. This is a possible bad setup.
No shocks suck. I ran a 4" narrowed beam for 8 months. Bounced like crazy. Had some small bump steer that was just too much. Scary for my kids to ride in. jfats808

So, again, I don't give a shit except for when people are spouting bullshit. And, that if you research it, you can have a narrowed beam that will give you a ride that isn't shitty.

You got it now?

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:09 pm

5" narrowed beam, no shocks. does not bounce, rides great.
i do have the adjuster on the lower beam all the way up, and the upper beam all the way down. seems to be better that way.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:17 pm

The correct bushings and shocks and springs will always be better than cobbled up aftermarket junk.

It is tho, rather hard to find the "right" shocks, the right bushings, and the right spring stiffness, so I guess do what ever works best, with whatca can get

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:20 pm

With an extremely lowered vehicle you only have 1-2 inches of compression, meaning the car can only "dive" that amount under braking or bumps. Most shocks sold have very little valving on rebound unless it's a custom shock of sort, so rebound damping is almost pointless on a lowered car anyway. Point is the lower you go the less damping you need or want.The taller the more suspension control you need. If your suspension moves 15 in.= lots of shock, if it only moves 1 in. less shock

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:43 pm

My opinion is if you've narrowed your beam to the point where shocks are no longer an option, you've gone into retardedly too far country.

And yes, I'm sure Ace will call bullshit. :lol:

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:48 pm

bugnut68 wrote: My opinion is if you've narrowed your beam to the point where shocks are no longer an option, you've gone into retardedly too far country.

And yes, I'm sure Ace will call bullshit. :lol:

Actually, this is more in "I don't give a shit" territory.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:49 pm

wider is better :wink:

Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:02 pm

When you say possible bad set up what do you mean? I was running a Latenightaircooled 4" narrowed beam, drop spindles, and a 3/4" sway bar. Only thing not present was shocks. I did not check how many leafs were in the torsion bar, why would I. It came complete ready to mount. The only thing I can think of was the angle or height the adjusters were welded to be wrong.
Now I have Koni adj. shocks all around that are all at halfway tension w/ a Koni steering dampner, 3" narrowed beam, and fulcrum adj. swaybar set up. Rear has 1" rlr trans raise kit and 3/4" sway bar. Disc brakes all around.
I've taken this car to over 130 and tell you I would never attempt it without shocks. Speaking from experience, I would never go back nor would I suggest it to any one. My take.

Edit** I forgot to mention that after each r/r of a beam, I took it to an alignment shop that does most of the ACVWs on island.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:08 pm

jfats808 wrote: When you say possible bad set up what do you mean? I was running a Latenightaircooled 4" narrowed beam, drop spindles, and a 3/4" sway bar. Only thing not present was shocks. I did not check how many leafs were in the torsion bar, why would I. It came complete ready to mount. The only thing I can think of was the angle or height the adjusters were welded to be wrong.

WIthout knowing anything else about your front end, that 3/4" sway bar is a biggie. It unloads the weight of the other side over bumps which isn't what you want as it also unloads the dampening effect from the urethane bushings i am assuming you had. I also offset my adusters quite a bit which has a very noticable effect. The bump steer part tells me you possibly had something wrong in your tie rod angles. So in knowing almost nothing about your previous front end, this is all I have to offer. I wouldn't recommend doing 130 in a shockless front beamed bug too. Actually, I wouldn't with shocks either due to aerodynamics of the bug body without modifications.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:24 pm

BOING, BOINg, Boing, BOIng, BOing, Boing, Boing, Boing, Boing!!!!

:lol:

Sorry about that.
It just popped into my head when I read the title.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:32 pm

Are we supposed to take suspension advice from someone who thinks shocks are meant to DAMPEN the ride?
Do you carry a towel with you?

Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:35 pm

yes, I do actually