TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue May 01, 2012 5:23 pm

OK, I know I am asking for it, but what is the current best practice for insulating the walls of the van. Not sound deadener, but a replacement for the fiberglass that I have systematically removed from within the wall cavities?

I have searched and found various ideas that were repeatedly shot down by members, so do we have a 'agreed' practice that works without negative side effects?

As I have just removed my drivers rocker panel and have seen the damage a fiberglass batting can inflict on an unsuspecting vanagon panel, I am curious to gain some insight from the membership.

Thanks in advance for any input.

LP

Tue May 01, 2012 5:42 pm

probably wrongly, i'd look for a water repellant spray foam insulation

what are you doing about the insides of your seams now that you have repaired them ?

Tue May 01, 2012 5:42 pm

I am going to try this product. I see someone else on here used it on their high top to insulate it.

http://www.insulation4less.com/Default.aspx

Tue May 01, 2012 5:48 pm

rubbachicken wrote: probably wrongly, i'd look for a water repellant spray foam insulation

what are you doing about the insides of your seams now that you have repaired them ?

Sikaflex 227. Was recommended by my friend the body man.

http://us01.webdms.sika.com/fileshow.do?documentID=978

Tue May 01, 2012 6:04 pm

chojinchef wrote: rubbachicken wrote: probably wrongly, i'd look for a water repellant spray foam insulation

what are you doing about the insides of your seams now that you have repaired them ?

Sikaflex 227. Was recommended by my friend the body man. http://us01.webdms.sika.com/fileshow.do?documentID=978

is that for the seams you see, or the insides where you don't, i was wondering about the possibility of sweating in lead based solder from the inside, sealing the seam from the inside, being sure that water could not rot the seams out from the inside
the capillary action should suck solder almost right though, sealing the seam from the inside

an it would need to be done before painting

Tue May 01, 2012 6:10 pm

rubbachicken wrote: chojinchef wrote: rubbachicken wrote: probably wrongly, i'd look for a water repellant spray foam insulation

what are you doing about the insides of your seams now that you have repaired them ?

Sikaflex 227. Was recommended by my friend the body man. http://us01.webdms.sika.com/fileshow.do?documentID=978

is that for the seams you see, or the insides where you don't, i was wondering about the possibility of sweating in lead based solder from the inside, sealing the seam from the inside, being sure that water could not rot the seams out from the inside
the capillary action should suck solder almost right though, sealing the seam from the inside

Never thought about solder. Figure with the idiot drivers here in Northeast, I will probably need repair ability.

I will be using the Sikaflex wherever I can apply it around seams - inside and out. Trying to blast as much of seam, then prime to best prep for sealer.

an it would need to be done before painting

Tue May 01, 2012 6:18 pm

Sika products are amazing.
I use many of them in home construction.
Most come in tubes and can be spread like a brushable seam sealer on the inside.

Wurth has two part foams available.
I have the pneumatic applicator.
Pricey stuff :!:

Tue May 01, 2012 6:21 pm

insyncro wrote: Sika products are amazing.
I use many of them in home construction.
Most come in tubes and can be spread like a brushable seam sealer on the inside.

Wurth has two part foams available.
I have the pneumatic applicator.
Pricey stuff :!:

Have used some Wurth products before. Are you referring to something specific that I can look into?

Tue May 01, 2012 6:31 pm

I don't remember the name or product number offhand.
I can check tomorrow.

Not sure if you can access the product info without an account.....

wurthusa.com

Tue May 01, 2012 6:34 pm

Thanks for any information you can get.

LP

Tue May 01, 2012 6:54 pm

outwesty wrote: I am going to try this product. I see someone else on here used it on their high top to insulate it.

http://www.insulation4less.com/Default.aspx

I really like the Prodex insulation referenced (linked) above. Light, easy to apply - its great for lining the inside of a hightop. Its IR reflective properties means that the van stays warm in the cold months and cool in the summer.
Would I use it to insulate the sides, doors, etc of a van - NO. The reason is that whereas when lining the top one can seal the surface completely by using the reflective tape, thereby preventing any air infiltration
it would be impossible to do so in the cavities of the van.
I'd use this stuff - at first glance it seems expensive, but I figure that there's enough to probably do 3+ vans - so if a few people got together .... http://www.foaminsulation.net/spray-foam-insulatio...-foam-kit/
Used in the side cavities it has all of the qualities I'd like: closed cell, good acoustically, good R value and it would get into all of the nooks and crannies.
I wouldn't use spray foam to insulate a hightop however - I've talked to quite a few professional foam folks - there is no way to ensure that the thickness of the foam when applied and expanded will be uniform. If a spray foam insulation was of varying thickness it would be next to impossible to finish the interior of the top neatly.

Tue May 01, 2012 7:09 pm

I too removed my Dometic fridge to change the fan and check valve. I looked at the floor behind it and as many members have said there was rust. I have now pulled the entire kitchen, removed the fiberglass insulation behind the kitchen and under the water tank. Did POR-15 for the rust. I am trying to figure out what is the best insulation to replace the fiberglass. My big concern is how hot does it get behind the fridge when running on propane. Does anyone know. The reason is that various insulation's have temperature limits. ie Reflectix 185 degrees, dynaliner 225 degrees, fiberglass 350 degrees etc. I don't want the insulation to melt or offgass. I also don't want to put something back that holds moisture. Any help would be appreciated.

Tue May 01, 2012 7:27 pm

Westified wrote: I too removed my Dometic fridge to change the fan and check valve. I looked at the floor behind it and as many members have said there was rust. I have now pulled the entire kitchen, removed the fiberglass insulation behind the kitchen and under the water tank. Did POR-15 for the rust. I am trying to figure out what is the best insulation to replace the fiberglass. My big concern is how hot does it get behind the fridge when running on propane. Does anyone know. The reason is that various insulation's have temperature limits. ie Reflectix 185 degrees, dynaliner 225 degrees, fiberglass 350 degrees etc. I don't want the insulation to melt or offgass. I also don't want to put something back that holds moisture. Any help would be appreciated.

You'll have to read the specs on a variety of products. That's a pretty flat surface, you might consider a spray foam with a reflective barrier between it and the fridge. Check Summitt Racing or Racer Part Wholesale for reflective heat shielding.