| samuelvincentvella |
Fri May 11, 2012 8:16 am |
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I really am trying very hard to research how these conversions may be performed, but am struggling to find consistant guidance. I was very involved in my EJ25 in the auto and so have some mechanical skills, but do not have any fabrication skills (requiring welding/metal work etc). Could you help with just a few fundamental questions?
For my Syncro Doka: As I have the extra headroom in the engine bay, I gather I can use a Kennedy adapter plate and have the engine in the orientation it was designed to be in the donor car. Is this correct?
What else do I need to convert this gas 2.1 DJ over to the AFN? Diesel fuel tank? Engine bar? Mounts? Or are these no longer indicated with the engine upright? A list would be very appreciated.
For my Automatic 2WD: Ideally I would like this under the standard engine bay and so mounted at 55 degrees. As its automatic, I am guessing a diesel bell housing is useless. So does anyone do an adapter plate for auto to AFN? Also, a list of parts to source would be very helpful. Anecdotally, I am running the 3.27 R&P I have commsioned and so hope this will be better matched to the TDi power characteristics.
Many thanks in advance for your help and guidance.
Samuel
UK |
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| Zeitgeist 13 |
Fri May 11, 2012 9:48 am |
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| Have you seen this thread? |
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| svenakela |
Fri May 11, 2012 2:10 pm |
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| Hopefully you'll find useful info from a bunch of conversions at http://switchamotor.blogspot.com |
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| trailnewt |
Fri May 11, 2012 2:42 pm |
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AFN is not readily available in the US but has similar (or perhaps identical) engine block to our AHU and IZ. The build thread referenced above is for a later model TDI engine with different mounting brackets and oil pan configuration. Most of us who mount the AHU or 1z in our Syncros mount it at 50 degrees for 3 reasons.
1. Better ground clearance.
2. Doesn't intrude into passenger compartment. (not an issue with your DOKA)
3. Engine carrier bars and motor mounts from Diesel Vanagon (which had its engine mounted at 50 degrees)will work with this engine.
Another good source of information is the tdi-conversion Yahoo group.
Other items you will need are ECU, wiring harness, intercooler, custom intercooler plumbing, custom driver-side engine mount, custom exhaust system, drive-by-wire accelerator pedal or equivalent, mounting brackets for power steering reservoir, coolant reservoir, fuel filter. Also air flow meter, air temp. sensor, glow plug relay, speed sensor, clutch and brake switches, appropriate flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, and starter, skid plate. You will probably want to re-gear 3rd and 4th. This partial list assumes you are doing an electronic conversion. If you are fitting a hybrid mechanical pump then you can ignore most of the electrical components listed above.
Sorry, I know nothing about fitting a tdi to an automatic Vanagon.
Brent |
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| Andrew A. Libby |
Fri May 11, 2012 3:03 pm |
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I would lean (ptp) toward the 50° in the Doka also, largely to use the stock bell-housing instead of an adapter plate. You'd have to get a syncro diesel fuel tank, tho. No choice on the automatic.
Samuel, I'll be very interested in hearing about the results w/ the 3.27 in the automatic. I recently purchased an '90 automatic (wife doesn't like manual) and will dieselize it before too many moons. I haven't decided on whether to go AAZ with stock auto gearing and tall tires or mTDI AHU/1Z with your R+P. I build mTDI pumps so the AHU/1Z is a more appealing motor to me for it's added fuel economy, but the cost of regearing the trans is a lot of fuel especially when I haven't yet heard of someone with the custom r+p automatic TDI. |
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| svenakela |
Sat May 12, 2012 5:31 am |
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| Just want to point out that the blog I posted above contains 1Z/AHU conversions only. :) |
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