| jays |
Fri May 11, 2012 3:25 pm |
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http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/product/oil-piston-spring-high-performance-1600cc-1970-up_300423/
http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/product/300420/
anyone ever use these before
or know where i can find some real good stuff?
when my car is hot the light flickers until it just stays lit when hot enough when it comes to a idle speed so i figure its time to change it as i did not when i rebuilt the engine (poor choice in life i know) as well as the pump housing.
figured i might as well do this instead of just throw 20w-50 to patch the problem as ive been reading plus i dont want my engine over heating with that oil since I live in miami and its been pretty hot lately.. |
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| jays |
Fri May 11, 2012 4:43 pm |
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noone nowhere then huh? :?
i guess i should just bandaid it and see if 20-40 works for me |
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| jhoefer |
Fri May 11, 2012 5:03 pm |
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| Unless the piston's sticking, the bypass valves don't affect the idle pressure. That's usually a worn/leaky pump or worn bearings. |
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| jays |
Fri May 11, 2012 5:55 pm |
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ok then that helps.
i should probably sand the pump down then since i didnt do it when i rebuilt this. and do you think its possible to take the pump out and put it back in with the engine installed?
i forgot how i put it together when i rebuilt it. (first rebuild) |
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| candymustang66 |
Sat May 12, 2012 9:23 am |
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jays wrote: http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/product/oil-piston-spring-high-performance-1600cc-1970-up_300423/
http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/product/300420/
anyone ever use these before
i guess you mean the bottom plate, gasket and the screen?
my orig. was bent bad, had to buy 3 sets (clone crap)
until i got a plate that was not beer can thin.
My bad, i now know who sells the crap and avoid them like plague.
if stumbled on a chrome one( i didn't want chrome) but it was very nice and thick (oem thick ,dig?)_
so BINGO.
many of the wire screens , were crushed and deformed so keep throwing new ones in trash, buy , buy , bingo...
bughaus.com has nice parts. as does, aircooled.new
or know where i can find some real good stuff?[/b] see above.
when my car is hot the OIL? light flickers until it just stays lit when hot enough when it comes to a idle speed so i figure its time to change it as i did not when i rebuilt the engine (poor choice in life i know) as well as the pump housing.
Key on, short the oil sender to ground, does the oil lamp glow or does
the gen lamp glow. key off. ?
figured i might as well do this instead of just throw 20w-50 to patch the problem as ive been reading plus i dont want my engine over heating with that oil since I live in miami and its been pretty hot lately..
the first thing, (IMO) is to never use the lamp as a guide beyond, Oh my
it came on, gee what does that mean? (yes, can be below 2psi for sure)
If the sender works it means pressure is low (common on all high mileage blocks)
each pump has a specific GPM rate 26mm pump about 3GPM
this flow, creates pressure, by virtue of the bearing clearances.
if clearances (bearing) are good, pressure is high
if the clearances exceed 3 GPM the pressure drops like a rock.
when the rpm is 900 rpm and the oil is roasting hot (thin oil) and the bearings are worn then pressure can drop. (1k posts on that)
there are only 3 ways to correct that.
a bigger GPM pump (30mm?) , (or blue print yours,)
Thicker oil. ( and risks, when very cold , but never happens in miami)
new bearings. (main, rods and lifter bore issues) see page S2-p47 Bentleys.
what is right for you ,, i dont know.
you could either conduct tests
or try easy fixes.
or replace suspected parts (new pump)
the by pass valve can be stuck open too. but is rare.
if you use a real pressure gauge, youd' have seen that pressure is going high at faster rpms , increasing as you spin up. and that the pressure regulates.
42 psi is when the pressure tries to regulate. see Bentleys. new motors.
a worn engine is 28psi(30w-2500rpm-158F) service limit.
if pressure is low all the time,you need to be fixing that. fast.
Always use a real gage (no not in the dash) at the sender hole.
my motors all have T fittings there for such tests. (summitracing sell em)
last , you can hook up a electric sender/gauge, and temporary wire it to the
steering column bracket or some place temporary near your eyes
the drive with it attached and learn what is really going on.
that is how check all motors, i build, or ones suspect)
Most gauges are not accurate (save the $500 ones) but you can at least
check it against a quality test mech gage (summitracing again) and see
if it is off. (and keep notes for you elect.gauge and put it in the box for later usage,) (indicated, actual charts , i make)
happy trails, |
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