TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sat May 12, 2012 2:30 pm

Alright, so I took the engine out to convert to an alternator, and while it's out I'm going to replace as many of the gaskets and seals as I can with new ones. Here is my question:

Which gaskets and seals get greased, which get glued(and what glue do you use), which go in dry, and what else am I missing?

As a side note, I also have a carb rebuild kit with all new gaskets, so...same question there.

Sat May 12, 2012 2:56 pm

If the engine has been running well and not leaking, why mess with what's not broke? Now if it does have a leak or two feel free to attempt to fix those. Be glad to answer any specific question. But could just about write a book answering your original one fully.

But I'm afraid at your skill level (Judging by the need to ask the question you did) that if you actually did replace every gasket and seal that you;d create more leaks than you fixed. Not meaning to be insulting, just wanting to prevent you making an even bigger problem.

Sat May 12, 2012 3:25 pm

A valid assumption, but I'm not a total noob. I rebuilt a 74 engine years ago that never leaked and ran like a champ till I sold it, all by following The Muir Manual. I just have a lousy memory and don't want to have to google or thumb through my book for every single gasket. as for the if it ain't broke...the car has always leaked a little in the engine compartment and i've never been able to get at the source, or get a machanic to do it, so I'm going to hit a few of the possible sources and hope for the best.

I'm not hitting everything, but will for sure be replacing the following gaskets and seals: Fuel Pump, Alternator stand, Oil filler Neck, Oil Cooler, The Main seal, carborator, valve cover gaskets.

Also, I know for sure that I have two rod tubes leaking mildly, but pulling the heads scares me...should I do it or just leave em?

Sun May 13, 2012 2:37 pm

Most of the gaskets go in dry and seals just need a light coat of oil. Do remember to lubricate the lip of any seal so that it doesn't burn up on start up. Make sure the bore in the case for the flywheel seal is nice and clean and doesn't have any old sealant caked in it. The new seal should be able to go in with just a bit of oil/grease, but if there are gouges in the case use your judgement as to what might need to be used to help things along. Any sealant use should be minimal, you don't want excess sealant floating around in your engine.

On some gaskets if you think a sealant is necessary then the use a spray sealant can be a good idea. Easy to get good coverage without having any excess.

Mon May 14, 2012 5:35 pm

I have replaced stock pushrod tubes without removing the heads, and engine in car