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Thu Aug 28, 2003 3:14 pm

Hi Guys... My girlfriend has always wanted a "Hippie" bus, and although we both like the early models better, we found a '79 with ~82K miles on it, VERY solid body, only minor rust is at the bottom of the windshield, EVERYTHING else is solid. Doesn't run... When we looked at it, I noticed the Distributor cap was missing, a couple of wires were sitting next to the coil, and a 3-wire plug was sitting by the distributor, but didn't seem to really plug into the dist. anywhere...
Here's the deal today... Replaced the distributor, as I found out the one that was in there the guy had majorly screwed up the connector that the ignition module plugs into... got the dist. in, plugged in, installed new wires, cap, and plugs. According to the Haynes manual, there are 2 black wired that go to the Negative side of the coil. I got those on there, (At least I think they're the right ones!) then it shows, I THINK, a green wire from the igntion module, a White wire, and a grey/green wire going to the positive side of the coil. The white wire is in a thick grey sleeve, which runs to the right hand rear of the engine compartment, and I'm not sure where the grey/green comes from... This wire looks more black/green to me. I not very good with wiring, and am needing some help on getting the coil hooked up right.
On another note, possibly related, The igntion switch seems to work, as the headlights/blinkers, etc, won't work unless it's switched on, but the key won't turn the motor over. You can engage the starter manually by jumping the solenoid, but nothing happens when you turn the key to the start position... I'd hate to have to take this to a shop to have it taken care of, but unless any of you guys can show me the light, I may have to.
My girlfriend is getting really excited about it, and I'd really like to get it up and running for her... So, PLEASE guys... anyone have any advice?
This is the '79 Engine with Fuel Injection and Electronics Ignition.

BTW... anyone know if you can use a standard rotor in this thing? BAP is trying to sell me a special RPM limiting rotor for $40! The distances on all the important stuff looks the same... any thoughts on this would be appreciated as well!

Thanks for your time and thoughts!!

Ron

Tempe, AZ

Thu Aug 28, 2003 5:11 pm

Is this a CA 79 with the factory electonic ignition? I think until 82 if it is a CA model they are set up the same.

Wow, I was just here last week. That is the only reason I would have a clue on this.

If it is, the diagram is in the Bentley book on page 77 of the Engine and Clutch section. It would pay to buy the book, trust me. You might have to do some testing on the Ignition Control Unit (ICU) later to see if it works right.

You are looking to measure from 0.55-0.75 ohms between the 2 terminals on the coil and (-1-) and 15+. Between 3000-5000 ohms between the coil wire (aka terminal 4) and (-1-). If it isn't you will need that coil, according to Bentley.

They say the coil has to be VW part # 211 925 115 C.

The green wire and the white wire are both on the (-1-) side of the coil. The green goes to the ICU. I am not sure where the white one goes but it is on this same terminal.

The rest all go on the 15+ side of the coil.

Good luck! Go get 'em!

Thu Aug 28, 2003 5:24 pm

Randy, Thanks for the info...
I'll have to see if I can locate a Bentley book around Phoenix somewhere.
In the Haynes manual, it shows 6 wires going to the coil... one is the main coil wire to the center of the dist. cap... 2 black wires go one side of the coil (negative), and the book shows the other 3 wires running to the other side of the coil. I am starting to wonder if the module is bad.
How do you test it?
We put the coil on a '67 Baja last night, and it seemed to work fine, although I can't imagine there having to be a SPECIFIC coil for that model/year.

R

Thu Aug 28, 2003 5:34 pm

There is most definitely a different coil for the '79 CA emissions Bus. I have one myself, and I had to replace the coil last year. What a hassle. I have an extra Bentley manual if you're interested....and if you can't get the wiring figured out on your Bus, I could just take a pic of mine for you and send it to you. I have a '79 CA emissions Bus with the electronic ignition. I would take some pics now but its dark out now and we all now what those pics on the dark look like...worthless. I did get rid of the catalytic convertor and other exhaust crap when I put in the new long block over the winter. I used 72-74 style heat exchangers and a header which I welded a bung into to thread the O2 sensor in. Otherwise I love the electronic ignition and the fuel injection and have never had a problem with either of them (knock on wood). The Bentley manual goes into detail as far as diagnosing the ignition and injection systems and its all pretty easy with a DVOM. If you are interested in the manual or want me to try and take a couple pics for you, just let me know. And pray that ignition module isn't the bad part...they run around $185 from the dealer. I priced one out a while ago when I was bored at work. I'm a tech for a VW dealer in NY...even with my discount it's a pricey little unit.

Thu Aug 28, 2003 5:37 pm

This site has a wiring diagram,just scroll down to the correct year. http://www.vintagebus.com/

Thu Aug 28, 2003 5:47 pm

VDubTech wrote: And pray that ignition module isn't the bad part...they run around $185 from the dealer. I priced one out a while ago when I was bored at work. I'm a tech for a VW dealer in NY...even with my discount it's a pricey little unit.
RMMW started to carry them for $32. Follow the link: 211 905 351D. I also have a used one from the junkyard for anyone that thinks $32 is too much and it includes the heatsink.

Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:04 pm

AZ_Ron wrote: a White wire, and a grey/green wire going to the positive side of the coil. The white wire is in a thick grey sleeve, which runs to the right hand rear of the engine compartment, and I'm not sure where the grey/green comes from... This wire looks more black/green to me. I not very good with wiring, and am needing some help on getting the coil hooked up right.
The white wire goes to the ECU and triggers the fuel injectors when the points open.

The green grey/black/green whatever stripped tracer wire has several possibilities. Where does it lead?

Quote: On another note, possibly related, The igntion switch seems to work, as the headlights/blinkers, etc, won't work unless it's switched on, but the key won't turn the motor over. You can engage the starter manually by jumping the solenoid, but nothing happens when you turn the key to the start position... I'd hate to have to take this to a shop to have it taken care of, but unless any of you guys can show me the light, I may have to.
Are you getting 12v at terminal 50 on the starter when the key is turned? I would follow this advice from Bartnik to diagnose the problem.

Quote: BTW... anyone know if you can use a standard rotor in this thing? BAP is trying to sell me a special RPM limiting rotor for $40!
The 04033 rotor can be used in place of the 04016 rev limiting rotor on all models. As is happens, the 79 ECU has an electronic rev limiter so it would be a waste of money to buy the expensive rotor for it anyway.

Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:22 pm

get the ignition switch out and check the starting point. It should be easy with a common tester.Just hook up the connector going to the starter and turn the switch as you will do to start the engine ,.If the ligh goes on, the switch is good and the problen can be poor grounding or even dirtty connections. If not , you will nedd to change the electical portion of the switch. Is very easy to do so, taking care to put all as it was taken out and to adjust the sterring column to the proper level. Sometimes the horn will not work due to this. If tis desn't work , try ussing a push bottom until you can repair the ignition switch. :twisted: :twisted:

Fri Aug 29, 2003 7:10 am

VdubTech...Sent you a PM... You can email me back at rzeppin@cox.net

I'd love to have your spare Bentley's manual! Please contact me with details.

Thanks!

Ron

Fri Aug 29, 2003 7:23 am

Hey ratwell...I've sene you answer a lot fo questions on here with good advice, however when you were referring to a white wire that triggers the fuel injectors when the points open???? He's referring to a '79 CA emissions Bus here...NO POINTS!!

Fri Aug 29, 2003 2:46 pm

Force of habit. There's still a white wire going to the ECU from the distributor for the same reason.

Mon Sep 01, 2003 9:31 pm

Ok guys... worked on it some more tonight... got the green and white wires hooked up to the positive side of the coil, two blacks to the negative. Here's my thoughts... please let me know if you think I'm out in left field or might be on track...

When you turn the Ignition switch ON, you're able to turn on the turn signals, headlights, horn, etc. When you turn the key to START, nothing happens. The starter doesn't turn over, the lights don't dim or anything like that...NOTHING happens. When the Key is left in the ON position, and we short the solenoid with a screw driver to turn the engine over, the engine turns over, but there's still no spark.
I'm thinking that there's either a bad ignition switch, or something in the wiring from the column back to the engine bay.
I figure even if the computer or Ignition module were bad, the starter should still engage... Anyone have any insights on this?

Thanks guys!!

Ron

P.S. VDubTech... if you're willing to sell that spare manual, please email me at rzeppin@cox.net and give me the details...

Mon Sep 01, 2003 10:21 pm

Do you have power at the positive side of the coil when the key is on? You can always run a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the battery straight to your positive terminal on the coil to make sure you've got juice that far anyway.

Tue Sep 02, 2003 6:38 am

The harness that comes down from the blower fan has 3 wires in it.
The black one goes to the + side of the coil, 15.
The white one goes to the - side of the coil, 1.
The multi colored one goes to the oil pressure sending unit.
Look at the left side of the engine compartment. You will a black inline fuse. The black wire on the end of it goes to the + side of the coil, 15.
Look on the right side of the engine compartment. About 6" from the big connecter going to the L-jet ECU will be a single white wire in the grey sheath. This wire goes to the - side of the coil, 1.
From the harness of the electronic ignition module you will have six wires.
3 go to the connecter on the hall unit of the dizzy. A black one will plug into a single connecter in the FI wire harness about 4" from the ign module. A brown wire will go over to one of the three ground spades on the case bolt below the air plenum. The green wire goes to the - side of the coil, 1.

Tue Sep 02, 2003 7:14 pm

Karl, Thanks for the input...I have the coil backwards from what your describing... I work on One-Hour photolab equipment, so I naturally put both black wires to the (-) Negative side!! I'll flip them tomorrow, and then try it... I still don't think that'll affect the fact that the key won't activate the starter... We'll see...

Thanks again!

R

Thu Sep 04, 2003 6:54 am

UPDATE!

Well, we towed it over to a "VW Genius's" house last night, although he wasn't home to look at it....going back over there this morning...
On a whim, as I was taking the key back out of the ignition, I tried to start it... damn thing turned over... apparently the key switch is borderline bad/dirty...you have to turn it pretty firmly, but then the starter kicks in. I flipped the wires around according to Karl's post, although the wiring isn't exactly as described, but still no spark. I'm hoping this guy we took it too will look at it and go "oh yea..." tinker, tinker, and poof, we have spark. We'll see...

Thanks guys!!

R