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Wed May 23, 2012 11:34 pm

Hi

I have my friends automatic FI fasty on my garage waiting for me to sort out the electrict broblems that is has. But for me to sort out the issues I really need a good wiring diagram that shows all the efi and automatic special electrics. I tried to search and did not have any luck.

At the moment I think that the switch that disables starting when the automatic is not in park is causing the broblems. So where is this swicht located. What circuit it disconnects.

Wed May 23, 2012 11:43 pm

tanhis wrote: Hi

I have my friends automatic FI fasty on my garage waiting for me to sort out the electrict broblems that is has. But for me to sort out the issues I really need a good wiring diagram that shows all the efi and automatic special electrics. I tried to search and did not have any luck.

At the moment I think that the switch that disables starting when the automatic is not in park is causing the broblems. So where is this swicht located. What circuit it disconnects.

Most Automatics will only start in neutral, except for the very last ones produced. Try starting it with the selector in "N" first.

Wed May 23, 2012 11:56 pm

Yes I tried that as well and no luck.

Thu May 24, 2012 12:09 am

What year is the car?

Thu May 24, 2012 12:21 am

Thu May 24, 2012 12:23 am

Terve!

I think the neutral switch is at the base of the shifter

wiring:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/type3_8_70_additional.jpg

Thu May 24, 2012 12:25 am

tanhis wrote: '68

A rare early Automatic- nice!! :D

Hope this helps- these old repair manuals are a pain to scan because of the binding- the last word gets cut off in the key, but you should still be able to make it out- hope this helps. Book doesn't show an earlier diagram but this one generally covers all until August 1972.

Thu May 24, 2012 12:31 am

Thank you.

This certain car has been a pain in the ass. It has newer worked for a whole summer that it has been driven. But when it has worked it is a wonderful car.

I think that the guy who originnaly restored the car had no idea how to do good electrics to automotive use as there are allkinds of twist and cover connection here and there that i have been sorting out.

Thu May 24, 2012 12:37 am

tanhis wrote: Thank you.

This certain car has been a pain in the ass. It has newer worked for a whole summer that it has been driven. But when it has worked it is a wonderful car.

I think that the guy who originnaly restored the car had no idea how to do good electrics to automotive use as there are allkinds of twist and cover connection here and there.

That explains things. These systems are actually pretty simple and bulletproof. That said, it's positively mind- boggling what some people will go through to avoid just doing things right! :shock: :roll:

Thu May 24, 2012 12:45 am

It is also the same thing whit 6volt electrics most people are complaining that those dont work. And that the generator light is always burning and converting to 12Volt sorted out all the broblems. But thats not the case same issues are still there but 12volt does not need as good connections as 6V does so 12v helps whit the issues but does not eliminate them.

Thu May 24, 2012 1:06 am

tanhis wrote: It is also the same thing whit 6volt electrics most people are complaining that those dont work. And that the generator light is always burning and converting to 12Volt sorted out all the broblems. But thats not the case same issues are still there but 12volt does not need as good connections as 6V does so 12v helps whit the issues but does not eliminate them.

Agreed. Another thing I really hate seeing are these Ford relays to "eliminate starting problems". Repair the starter! :roll: :lol:

Thu May 24, 2012 8:23 am

This link might help for the Fuel Injection side of things. Wiring diagrams for it are on pages 3 and 4.
http://classicvw.org/gallery2/v/Fuel-Injection-Manual/

Fri May 25, 2012 1:52 am

So were you able to sort things out?

Fri May 25, 2012 5:15 am

I'm still busy painting new wheels for my t34 so this is still waiting for some love.

Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:00 pm

So I think that I got this one fiqured out.

When I was installing a new ignition switch I tested that ewerything was working before I put everything together.

But when everythin was together firs issue was tha main power cables connector was broken from the light switch and It caused some wierd power cuts. But after this issue was solved the car did not start.

The next issue was that car only had power when the parking lights were on. So Out came the light switch and I foun out that the light switch had several terminals whit the same numbers (30) but one only worked when the parking lights were on so I switched the ignition wire to another terminal and now everything is working indepentendly regardless of the lights. An no more starting issues.

But now the next issue was that I could not get the car fired as it has been sitting for a year and the battery was not the best.

So what do you recommend to check in a efi car to get it started after the basic stuff (spark, fuel pressure etc). The cars fuel system was empty as fuel line from body to engine had a large crack in it. Fuel pump makes a whoomp (normal) noice whe i turn the ignition.

Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:21 am

tanhis wrote:
So what do you recommend to check in a efi car to get it started after the basic stuff (spark, fuel pressure etc). The cars fuel system was empty as fuel line from body to engine had a large crack in it. Fuel pump makes a whoomp (normal) noice whe i turn the ignition.

If you've replaced ALL of the fuel hoses, then the next step, is to check the fuel pressure. You want 28-30 psi. A cheap home made set up with a 60 psi guage from the hardware store, and a length of hose (with clamps) will work here. This will help verify the pump is good. You also want to hear 2 clicks when you go to start it. The first click will be behind you, as the relay is mounted to the rear seat base, followed by a click of the relay in front of you (under the dash). If you don't get these 2 clicks, then you need to do more searching (electrical wise). The first click, engergizes the front relay, and turns on the ECU, the 2nd click turns on the pump for 3 seconds (unless the engine is turning over). I hope this helps.

Tue Jun 19, 2012 12:00 pm

Ok I got it running and did a test drive small hesitation in the trottle response but quite good before any adjustments or ignition part replacements. But as I was cheking everyting is workin like it should an no loose connections anywhere I found out that the full trottle switch was dead. So is the '68 automatic full trottle switch just a regular on/off switch or is there somethng more fancier involved. And is there any easy replacements out there or do I need to find type3 original.

Tue Jun 19, 2012 1:44 pm

tanhis wrote: Ok I got it running and did a test drive small hesitation in the trottle response but quite good before any adjustments or ignition part replacements. But as I was cheking everyting is workin like it should an no loose connections anywhere I found out that the full trottle switch was dead. So is the '68 automatic full trottle switch just a regular on/off switch or is there somethng more fancier involved. And is there any easy replacements out there or do I need to find type3 original.

Are you talking about the transmission kickdown switch, or the pressure switch for FI enrichment?

Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:01 pm

Actually I am not quite sure what am I talking about. When I turn the throttle I hear two kliks fist one after idle position and the second one at full thottle. Both of the clics comes from electric switches that have two wires going to them. The out of iddle switch responded when I measured it whit a multimeter. But the full throttle one next to oil pressure switch did not have any response.

I should have snapped a picture.

Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:12 pm

tanhis wrote: Actually I am not quite sure what am I talking about. When I turn the throttle I hear two kliks fist one after idle position and the second one at full thottle. Both of the clics comes from electric switches that have two wires going to them. The out of iddle switch responded when I measured it whit a multimeter. But the full throttle one next to oil pressure switch did not have any response.

I should have snapped a picture.

OK, you are talking about the kickdown switch for the automatic trans.

This switch should go to closed loop when you pull the little lever up and it clicks. Unusual for one to go bad. Pull the lever up all the way with your finger and your multimeter on the two terminals. Does nothing happen?