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Mon May 28, 2012 9:25 am

I have a 1600dp in my single cab and It has an adapter oil filter that uses the twist on oil filter. I replaced the muffler that was on there cause some one welded the thing to the heater boxes and it was just too loud of an exhaust for me. I went back to stock and I noticed that the heat riser coming from the left side is hitting the oil filter...could this cause extreme temps in the oil? I drove the scab for about 20 miles and noticed the dip stick is extremely hot and before I put this muffler on the dip stick wasn't getting hot at all. Is there a way I could modify the heat riser or just go back to a stock oil filter to eliminate the problem? I don't even know what parts I would need to get to get rid of this oil filter. I never had one of these before. Any advice is much appreciated.

Mon May 28, 2012 11:30 am

Is it a stock bus muffler or a beetle muffler? I was thinking there was a few different variations of the riser setup, depending on the manufacturer. Got a pic?
I'd keep the spin-on filter if possible.

Mon May 28, 2012 12:14 pm

It's a stock muffler (Ernst) and it's got the heat riser on the left and it's touching the oil filter adapter. I'll try and get a picture of it.

Has anyone cut off the heat riser at the muffler and welded it up at the muffler and moved the tube to the left side of the exhaust? Would this make a difference? I did some searching and I seen that the heat riser goes directly out of the muffler and It's job is to suck exhaust and heat up the manifold. Would it make a difference to just move it from the right to the left and not exit out of the muffler like so:

I know this is a beetle muffler and not a bus but the idea is the same and i'm guessing it is no different as I look into my bus muffler I see this as well.

Mon May 28, 2012 1:58 pm

What brand of filter are you using? If it's a Fram, they are too big. Get a Bosch, Mann, or Mahle filter. The can is much smaller and will provide better clearance. All filter pumps that I have used require Rabbit filter, Fram #PH2870A, I think. Wix filters may be smaller, too.

Mon May 28, 2012 9:17 pm

Maybe you can bend the heat riser tube a bit.

We have been cutting and having the neck of the oil filter/pump reangled down a tad to fix that problem to work with any stock muffler.

Or you could get one of the stock Mexican of VW oil pump/filters.

Tue May 29, 2012 7:31 am

Smurf wrote: Has anyone cut off the heat riser at the muffler and welded it up at the muffler and moved the tube to the left side of the exhaust? Would this make a difference?

Won't work on your style as it needs the negative pressure created by the venturi to suck hot exhaust across the heat riser. If you have dual carbs or a plugged up heat riser as most are then it won't matter. Eberspacher sells a right side venturi heat riser muffler with a long crossover silencer pipe that exits on the left side if that helps.

Like this: http://seekpart24.com/eberspaecher/exhaust-system-121118?c=100046

Thu May 31, 2012 12:05 pm

I bent the heat riser slightly and used the smallest filter I could find, which was a Fram part # 4967. This was with a CB performance oil filter pump.

Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:34 am

Wayland wrote: I bent the heat riser slightly and used the smallest filter I could find, which was a Fram part # 4967. This was with a CB performance oil filter pump.

Sheesh, I'm probably the last person to notice these for sale. The riser pipe is on the right side. Has anyone had experience with this muffler as far as German quality?

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211251051E

Wed Jun 06, 2012 5:05 pm

Not sure what make the WW muffler is, but I bought a Dansk from CIP (w/ heat riser on Rt) and ran it for years. The quailty seemed fine, but IIRC, I had to really pry it and tweak it to get it to fit. The Ernst one I'm running now seems a little heavier and was a perfect fit, no tweaking required.

Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:51 pm

Or switch to the relocatable oil filter housing/pump combo, which moves the oil filter out of the way of the hot air from the 3/4 cylinders. This allows me to run as large an oil filter as I want. Easy access away from hot engine parts/exhaust

Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:33 pm

Actually as long as the filter is not in contact with the muffler, the hot oil in the filter is being cooled by the "Hot" air coming off the 3/4 cylinder. Note how the push rod tubes drain oil out of the heads and were never insulated. Also that the type 4 ACVW has a stock filter in near same position, and the stock Mexican oil/filter pump was designed with the filter on the 1/2 cylinder side.

Have run the oil/filter pumps for over 200,000 miles now with no change in oil temp, in comparision to before with stock oil pump.

Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:15 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: Actually as long as the filter is not in contact with the muffler, the hot oil in the filter is being cooled by the "Hot" air coming off the 3/4 cylinder. Note how the push rod tubes drain oil out of the heads and were never insulated. Also that the type 4 ACVW has a stock filter in near same position, and the stock Mexican oil/filter pump was designed with the filter on the 1/2 cylinder side.

Have run the oil/filter pumps for over 200,000 miles now with no change in oil temp, in comparison to before with stock oil pump.

I have often wondered about this. Is the air coming off of 3/4 cooling or warming that oil filter? It would seem that the air from that area would be hotter than the oil coming from the engine block, no?

Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:46 pm

Well if none other than I can reach for my filter in the dark, and not worry about gripping an exhaust pipe. Also, I can run any filter I want. Size is no issue since mine is under the left side battery tray.

Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:59 pm

quartermilecamel wrote: Well if none other than I can reach for my filter in the dark, and not worry about gripping an exhaust pipe. Also, I can run any filter I want. Size is no issue since mine is under the left side battery tray.

You will have same problem burning you fingers if you are fondling your oil filter in the dark!! :wink: Oil at 160 - 210 and higher is hot enough to scald you. Water heater manufactures recommend less than 130 F temp setting to prevent scalding!

Have had no problem with the smaller filter, not needed to use the largest oil filter available.

Crook neck military flashlight works great to light up the work area without needing to hold the flashlight by hand. Use an oil filter socket which easily slips up into place with fingers not touching hot filter or exhaust. Then use the 3/8" ratchet wrench to turn the filter loose several turns till oil drains out. Make sure to toss some bottles of oil in driver seat to keep you from forgetting and trying to start your VW with oil drained.
Go off and leave engine and oil filter to drain for at least 15 minutes or longer for cooler engine.

With hoses you have more risk of oil loss due to chaffing, burning of the oil lines. Oil filter/pump is as reliable if not more so than the engine case itself due to being made of aluminum so no chaffing or rubber to burn.

Quote: I have often wondered about this. Is the air coming off of 3/4 cooling or warming that oil filter? It would seem that the air from that area would be hotter than the oil coming from the engine block, no?

No. Cooling air is still going to be cooler than the oil. If it was not, VW could easily rigged up a stale air kind of engine tin and kept the cooling air away from the lower engine case, oil pump and etc..

We have installed these oil filter/pumps on several engines with oil temp gauges on before and after with no change in oil temp.

Plus VW has the stock type 4 engine with oil cooler in same location, and VW of Mexico had a stock oil filter/pump to keep the oil clean for the hydraulic lifters in the last years of the ACVW Beetle production. If that location was a "problem" would not VW have figured it out??

Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:41 pm

I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the air coming from the 3/4 head was hotter than the oil in the filter.

I have used many filter pumps with great results. They are way better than nothing at all.

Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:21 pm

All I have to do is grab an oil filter wrench and unscrew. the oil pump filter combo, which I had,......was perfectly positiioned so the header will burn you. Sticking your hand with wrench......fenagling it on the filter while navegating past headers.....nah been there done that....BURN!

Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:33 pm

quartermilecamel wrote: All I have to do is grab an oil filter wrench and unscrew. the oil pump filter combo, which I had,......was perfectly positiioned so the header will burn you. Sticking your hand with wrench......fenagling it on the filter while navegating past headers.....nah been there done that....BURN!

I just let the engine cool off for a few minutes before I try to grab the filter. NO BURN!

Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:47 am

cdennisg wrote: I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the air coming from the 3/4 head was hotter than the oil in the filter.

I have used many filter pumps with great results. They are way better than nothing at all .

You could use a digital thermometer to find out the temps.

I like the filter pump cause of no hoses. But I found I needed to run a header muffler or it was trying to put two things in the same place with a stock muffler. And the filter pump was a heavier duty pump so I ran 10/30 weight oil instead of 30 after blowing a filter in winter, which really is not fun.

Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:12 am

Clara wrote: cdennisg wrote: I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the air coming from the 3/4 head was hotter than the oil in the filter.

I have used many filter pumps with great results. They are way better than nothing at all .

You could use a digital thermometer to find out the temps.

I like the filter pump cause of no hoses. But I found I needed to run a header muffler or it was trying to put two things in the same place with a stock muffler. And the filter pump was a heavier duty pump so I ran 10/30 weight oil instead of 30 after blowing a filter in winter, which really is not fun.

I have an infrared thermo, but I'm not sure that it would accurately measure the air temps. I suppose one could place a temp sender in the air flow and measure it remotely. I don't have that technology.

I have heard of oil filters blowing when the oil is cold and pressure is high. Did your filter blow, or did the seal blow out?

Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:27 pm

If you do not use a quality oil filter (and FRAM is not) with an internal relief valve, you can expect to blow filters. WIX is one of the best made here in the USA and can be bought in most FLAPS, and is sold as NAPA Gold & Silver filters at their stores.

Check out this oil filter study and see how well or badly filters are made.

http://wetwesties1.tripod.com/oilfilterstudy/index.html

Make sure to read his "Conclusions" through the link near the bottom of the above webpage.