TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:06 pm

So a nice lady drove up next to me today and said "hey did you know that you have no brake lights". I didn't and now I'm stumped...

I don't have a brake warning switch.....never did, but my lights have worked before. I checked the fuse and it seemed to be ok (hord works too and its on the same fuse if I remember corectly). I checked the bulbs and wiring at the lights and they seem to be ok.

I have no power at the brake light switch with the key in the on position...should I? Is there a way to test the switches and how?

Is there something else I'm missing?

Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:43 pm

You could take a voltage reading on pin 12 on your diagnostic plug. Should get 12VDC when you press the pedal.

There should also be 12VDC on one side of each the switches at all times regardless of ignition switch position. Jumping either one the switches should activate the brake lights. (Jumper across the Black and the Black/Red wires)

Switches can be tested in place by measuring continuity across the contacts. Should be "open" or max resistance at rest, "zero" or minimum resistance with brake pedal pressed.

BTW,...Both switches would have to fail in order to not have brake lights function.

May want to check the grounds at the tail-lights

Might be a good idea to restore the brake fault light.

EDIT: I stand corrected in that the switches are now a 3 pin connection rather than the older 2 pin connection. The switch is a essentially a switch with a common, Normally open (NO), and Normally Closed (NC) contacts.

Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:25 pm

Just to add...
Both switch do need to fail.
But what seems to happen is this...
One switch did fail, many many miles ago. Then the second switch finally fails and "Poof" no brake lights.

Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:38 pm

uberautowerks wrote: Just to add...
Both switch do need to fail.
But what seems to happen is this...
One switch did fail, many many miles ago. Then the second switch finally fails and "Poof" no brake lights.

So true!,....and that's exactly what the brake fault light job is. Both switches should activate when the brake pedal is depressed. If one switch closes and the other doesn't then the light will light up. This is regardless of whether it's due to brake failure in the master cylinder or a switch failure.

Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:45 pm

I know this is an old post but also looking for a solution to the same brake light problem. I also posted on a beetle forum for help.
So how do I check the continuity when I bypass the wires at the switch? I have a volt meter but what setting? I have little experience with this thing, no pun intended.

Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:46 pm

Oh, and does anyone have a brake warning light?? I lost it somehow during the rebuild.