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Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:37 am

Ok, so after days of reading and trying to find photos in the gallery, I have to admit I am a bit lost. I am putting together a engine and want to full flow it. After a mock up with a spare mustache bar looks like I am a bit limited.

My question is, do I tap for full flow or can I do a maxi 3 pump from CB? My concern is I may end up with 10 plus feet of hose if I run a cooler up front under the bus. The mustache bar makes it tight.

What are my options? The engine will be a 1904 with a 74mm stroke if that matters.

Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:06 am

Tap it where I have the brass fitting (ignore the arrow)

Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:06 am

Thanks yama. I saw your full flow photos in the gallery. I have room to do the tap in the "normal" spot so that area isn't a huge issue. I am more concerned about the oil pump mount. I am not scared to cut and box my moo stash bar if need be, I'm just trying to avoid a hundred swivel fittings. That is why I was lookin into the maxi 3 pump

i could do this

too restrictive? or better than a maxi 3?

Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:53 am

it's not unheard of to cut a "window" in the bar to get the clearance....

Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:55 am

There is also the T3 mod That Brothers will do, where they weld NPT fittings on the side of the case. Straight out straight back in, no need to run the pump cover outlet.
You can see the plug between the outlet and the inlet in the galley.

Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:04 am

Why not play with where the mustache bar is located?
You cant get inches but sometimes shimming it away from the block a little bit and making the holes where the bar is attached to the bus a little bigger to bring it more towards the bumper, will help you clear the pump...

Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:05 am

Hey skills@eurocarsplus I wish I had a picture of the FF plumbing on my type2, I'll try to explain.

I used 2 45* brass fittings on the pump cover, one facing 45* up, then the other (threaded directly into the first) facing back the other way 45* out.
This stepped the fitting up just high enough to clear the MS bar bolt.
I did have to take a drum sander and sand some from the MS bar bolt boss, but not all the way though the wall of the boss. The bolt was still fully captured by the boss.
The upper fitting (return) just does the normal 90* and faces straight out level with the ground. The two in/out fittings sit parallel with each other, looks real clean with minimal bends.
I will try to snap a pic later today and post it up.

Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:14 am

I run a normal full flow on my '71 panel, 45° brass at pump outlet and 90° at main galley, 10 mm (0.4") spacers beetween engine bar and case, no problems so far.

For example my old 1775 back in 2007

Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:23 am

Photos would be great but I'm picking up what your laying down. Thank for the ideas. is there a quality (read, quality) kit I can buy or is it order the 8an fitting from summit and get oil line made locally?

Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:42 am

Gene Berg uses a trimmed down brass 45' fitting with their oil pump cover (GB 241B) to clear the '68-'71 bus mount- "...with the 45 degree fitting installed at the proper angle and clearanced. Some rear mounts may require slight dimpling. VW made 3 different versions."

Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:45 am

W1K1 wrote: There is also the T3 mod That Brothers will do, where they weld NPT fittings on the side of the case.

I really like that Type 3 modification for a full flow filter that Brother's does.

I wished I had known about it a couple of years ago.

- Andrew in Austin, TX -

Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:54 am

ALB wrote: Gene Berg uses a trimmed down brass 45' fitting with their oil pump cover (GB 241B) to clear the '68-'71 bus mount- "...with the 45 degree fitting installed at the proper angle and clearanced. Some rear mounts may require slight dimpling. VW made 3 different versions."

So the brass fittings are harware store material? Sorry for all the silly questions

Tue Jun 19, 2012 10:05 am

skills@eurocarsplus wrote: ALB wrote: Gene Berg uses a trimmed down brass 45' fitting with their oil pump cover (GB 241B) to clear the '68-'71 bus mount- "...with the 45 degree fitting installed at the proper angle and clearanced. Some rear mounts may require slight dimpling. VW made 3 different versions."

So the brass fittings are harware store material? Sorry for all the silly questions

I'm sure that's where Berg's (and everyone else) is getting them from. They just do some clearancing work on them so they're not as bulky.

Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:42 pm

ok, so i got to practicing on a junk case. i guess it pays to be a hoarder :wink:

here is how i started. i got the plug out (no problem) and started with a reamer:

(the humidity is forcing me to re oil all my tools :x )

now, this isnt the correct reamer, but it got the job started. i have read about 1,000 threads where people warn about the drill bit catching. once i got the reamer in to the point where it was about a RCH bigger than the bit, and 'drilled' by hand past the galley. even doing it by hand, you can feel that sumbitch want to catch where the 2 galleys intersect.

i then grabbed the tap, and slowly went to town

the hardware store didn't have the correct elbow, so i just bought a 3/8 elbow with a compression fitting and cut it off. i was able to get it about 4.5 turns in, at that point i felt that i was going to do something bad if i gave it that extra 1/4 turn to put the outlet horizontal.

so, with that said, is it safe to assume the 4.5 turns is in there deep enough, and should the fitting be tapped to the case so the last 'sung it up' allows me to clock it in the position i want? i will youse some sort of sealer of course, but i don't want my final clock position to be loose to the point it will swing in the breeze

so, am i on the right track or should i throw my tools away? 8)

Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:37 pm

When I did mine I aimed to have the fitting horizontal when finally snugged up but it's hard to judge. I found that the weight of the oil hoses tended to pull it back down a quarter turn or so. Had good success using Loctite threadlocker tape; the fitting hasn't budged since I used this and no leaks.

Wed Jun 20, 2012 3:58 am

forgot i had some old hoses and some fittings. here is what i came up with

i need the pump cover, but you get the idea

and i hope to run them above the sled tin

i will need to clearance the MB a bit but this should work

Wed Jun 20, 2012 5:04 pm

I have a 71 and had to do a bit of trimming on the moustache bar with the current engine.The outher stroker that kablooeyed its self outta dear had the berg pump cover and the majick fittings.All did clear very well, but the sun will still shine if you must trim out the stash bar.On the 3 generations ago 1776 I did in fact run the maxi-pad pump3 and had no issues whatsoever on pressure or cooling. My two cents and expierence. 8)

Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:52 am

My full flow is set up like Vince1's, see the angles of the fittings? I used the Berg kit. It cleared the mustache bar just fine. You do have to dimple out the rear breast plate tin a bit or make a precise cut. I used the steel braided line and the AN8 fittings instead of hose barbs and rubber hoses. Worked out real nice.

Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:27 pm

thanks jody. i think i have a plan of attack. i will keep the thread updated when i make it to that point. i was kind of fishing for ideas right now.

the plan is full flow to a filter mounted up in front of the transmission, with a sandwich plate and a oil cooler.