TheSamba.com :: View topic

Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:24 pm

Okay everyone, a big "that-a-boy/girl" to anyone that can come up with a solution for this problem

I adjust the brakes as is normal, both wheels will spin at the same rate with just a slight amount of rubbing. I take the bus for a ride and eventually the bus starts to pull left when the brakes are applied. I check the wheels and the passenger side wheel spins about the same or slightly easier and the drivers side is tight. If I readjust, the same thing happens.
Here is what I have done so far:
new shoes
replaced all the cylinders (one on the passenger side was froze).
replaced the front hoses

HELP!!!

p.s. I checked for previous posts and it comes up with over 80 pages. If this problem has already been discussed, please post the link to the thread.

Thanks

Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:40 pm

8). Drive the dam thing, seriously though the brakes have to get used to its new" surroundings...

Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:52 pm

What year is the bus? I had a 67 master cylinder fail on me on time. I thought it was the soft hose at first, but I would brake and the passenger wouldn't release until I loosen the bleeder and the fluid would pour out. Unless you have a new soft line that is bad. Take it around the block a couple of times and loosen the bleeder and see if the brake releases.

Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:52 pm

When you bled your brakes were you getting good fluid flow to each wheel? If so then you likely have a stuck wheel cylinder. Yes even new ones can be bad. you need to determine which wheel is not braking it will be on the right. Or you have some air on the right side even one bubble can cause this> Hows your pedal feel? You should have replaced all four soft lines was the "froze" cylinder on the right rear? Lift the front spin the wheels and apply the brakes do the same for the rear. report back

Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:54 pm

If the adjusting star retainer is very loose or missing it could cause the brakes to come out of adjustment.

Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:54 pm

Not sure if collapsed rear hoses would be the culprit, but why not change them, as well?

Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:58 pm

It's a '65.

On one occasion I opened the bleeder on the drivers side and the brake seemed to release.
I have good fluid flow when bleeding.
I'm about to the point where I am going to replace the rear hoses and the master cylinder.
Could it be the hard line?

Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:03 pm

The froze cylinder was on the passenger front. I also replaced the rear cylinders.
I have jacked up the front and rear, spun the wheels and applied the brakes. All seem to stop with the same amount of pedal.
The pedal seems soft when compared to my '60 SC. It also travels further before the brakes engage when compared to my SC.

I really appreciate the help everyone!

Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:47 pm

Sounds like air in the lines or the brakes needs adjusted.

Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:52 pm

chrisflstf wrote: Sounds like air in the lines or the brakes needs adjusted.

Or both, and I would definitely change the rear soft lines too

Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:56 pm

Check the pedal push rod for proper adjustment,make sure pedal is returning all the way.

Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:21 pm

Check your front brake drums maybe their out of round. Use dot 4 fluid suppposed to give u a firmer pedal ,adjust front brakes you may have to bleed adjust bleed.

Tue Jun 26, 2012 1:58 am

Recently, aVW mechanic told me that one brand of made-in-China brake shoes has thin linings and is way out of round and can't even be arced because pof that. You need to remove the brake drum and look at the brake linings (high spots) and for fluid leakage.

Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:33 am

It just occurred to me that a couple of weeks ago, I had a similar issue with the rear brakes in that I would adjust them, go for a ride and the a rim would be hot. I jacked it up and one wheel spun as I adjusted it and the other would be tight. Is this a master cylinder issue?

What hair I have left is falling out. :?

Tue Jun 26, 2012 12:41 pm

Quote: I jacked it up and one wheel spun as I adjusted it and the other would be tight. Is this a master cylinder issue?

Most likely a plugged rubber/flex brake hose. They do that when they go bad

Tue Jun 26, 2012 4:12 pm

Yes, it's usually either a bad line or a sticky wheel cylinder.

A bad line is more common, especially if it looks old or you don't know how old it is.

Tue Jun 26, 2012 4:18 pm

Campy wrote: fluid leakage.

This happened to us right before heading down to OCTO. I even adjusted the non-pulling side(drivers) tighter, it pulled left a few times then right back to pulling right....one of the right front wheel cylinders was leaking...swapped it out and replaced the shoes...all is good now.

Tue Jun 26, 2012 4:36 pm

Same here. Leaky cylinder. Pulled HARD sometimes.

Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:21 pm

I've replaced all the cylinders. I suppose a new one could be bad, but why would the drivers wheel tighten and the release if I open the bleeder?
I have some movement in the shaft coming out of the master cylinder, so I think it is returning all the way.
I guess next is replacement of the rear hoses and a new master cylinder.
That's all that's left besides the hard lines.....

Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:58 pm

Quote: but why would the drivers wheel tighten and the release if I open the bleeder?

There is your answer - bad rubber hose. The drivers wheel is dragging due to incomplete fluid pressure release after letting go of the brake pedal, because the rubber line is swollen inside