| reeferunit |
Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:56 pm |
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Hey everyone!
Well, after more than 6 years in storage, it's time to get my fastback running again. While I was living in CA, I asked my brother to start it at least every month (this is back in '06), but that lasted only about 2 years. Then he let the battery go dead. then he lost the key. :(
So, it's been sitting in one spot. I have a good idea of what to do, but would like to see what you guys think.
a few facts:
* Auto trans.
* new engine in '05. Dual carbs. Probably about 2000 miles on the engine.
* gas tank was lined with that liquid lining stuff. But gas (with Sta-Bil added) has been sitting in it for years.
* has been stored inside, in a sort-of-heated garage.
I'm planning on replacing all the rubber fuel lines and vacuum hoses, and a brake system flush. Of course change the oil. Probably should change the soft hoses on the brake system?
How good is that gas tank lining stuff? Will I have to get it done again? Will the bad gas in the tank ruin it?
I've never taken apart a carb...and really don't want to. Would this be necessary to clean the bowl, etc? Any other way of cleaning them out should it need it?
It had a drivability problem (low on power) before I stored it, but I'll get to that after it's running again.
I'm also considering a pertronix ignition, and possibly the new alternator conversion I recently saw in Hot VW's. Also considering an electric fuel pump...Just don't trust the mechanical one for some reason.
I'm planning on keeping it. I'd rather not sell it unless I have to. It's a driver, not a show car. But, almost no rust at all, and 36,000 original miles, so I'd rather drive it again and enjoy it :) (but, having said that, I would consider a good offer).
Thanks guys! |
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| krusher |
Tue Jun 26, 2012 12:54 am |
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reeferunit wrote:
I'm also considering a pertronix ignition, and possibly the new alternator conversion I recently saw in Hot VW's. Also considering an electric fuel pump...Just don't trust the mechanical one for some reason.
Thanks guys!
You dont "need" any of those mods
The tank sealer should be fine
I would give it new gas and a oil change and start it up. (take the coil lead off and turn the engine over on the starter motor till the oil dash light goes out, this will prime the engine with oil before you start it)
Then its tune up time to find your previous bad running problems. |
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| COFBack |
Tue Jun 26, 2012 7:29 am |
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x 2 on Drain Gas and Oil, refill both and see if it will start.
The only thing I would add on is
Stick your battery on a charger
Turn the engine by hand before applying power
Check/Adjust valves while cold
Check your Firing order / Static time (make sure the distributor is loose when you are ready to apply power)
then
Turn without spark for a few turns
Light her off |
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| reeferunit |
Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:48 am |
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Would the valves need adjusting after just sitting? I've never done it myself, always had my mechanic do that.
Also, I know I don't "Need" new ignition and alternator, but I've never liked points and condenser systems. They work, but need replacing and adjusting. It's 2012 and if something more reliable and more powerful is available, then no reason not to (besides cost!)
Alternator would be better for brighter headlamps, etc.
So carbs would be fine internally (jets, floats, etc) after all this time? Good gas going through would help to clean it out too I'm imagining. |
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| COFBack |
Tue Jun 26, 2012 12:50 pm |
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I recommend adjusting the valves because you mentioned a drivability issue prior to sitting. They need to be done cold iron, so before you try starting it.
a. Get the engine on TDC #1. (Both rockers for # 1 will have some play.)
i. Check Rotor Position
ii. Check Timing Marks
iii. Check no free play on #3 valves
iv. Check Piston position if you are still uncertain
b. Adjust BOTH valves on #1 Done
i. .006” feeler gauge should just fit between
ii. 13mm Jam nut
iii. Slotted Screwdriver to adjust
iv. Tighten jam nut and retest.
c. Adjust INTAKE valve on #2
d. Adjust EXHAUST valve on #4
e. ROTATE ENGINE 360 degrees
f. Adjust BOTH Valves on #3
g. Adjust INTAKE on #4
h. Adjust EXHUST on #2
On the carbs, you might want to start with a "base setting". Which will depend on which carbs you have on it.
At a minimum I would turn the idle MIXTURE screw in to a light seat and back it out 2 turns.
Check your points gap
Have your timing light hooked up
Perhaps have a can of starting "helper" (but use this SPARINGLY) |
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