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Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:54 pm

Hello guys, welcome on my fun sub-budgeted build topic !

I m throwing together all the parts i have around to build a replacement engine for my bug.

here's the list of what i already have for the long block:

- used but still good AS41 block
- used Solex 34 pict 3
- used DP intake manifold for pict34
- damaged 1600DP cylinder head (i can try to repair it)
- stock used valvtrain (springs, pushrods, lifters,...)
- Engle vz14 camshaft
- new counterweighted forged 69mm crackshaft
- new forged connecting rods
- quite new 88mm slip in piston/cylinder set

My questions:

- what kind of power do you think i can achieve with that stuff ?
- max "safe" and usable rpm ?
- what affordable parts would you buy to enhance reliability or power?

Things to know:

- My budget for improvement is a around $300.
- do not consider accessories (distributor, coil, dog housing,...)
- this is mostly for the fun of building, i dont want a bulletproof 200hp engine

Thanks for your suggestion, idea, opinion... :D

Tue Jul 03, 2012 4:29 pm

You've got some good pieces to start a decent combo with, case (probably), crank, rods and P/C set. My suggestion is to save up some coin to finish the combo properly. A set of Kadrons (the stock carb is barely enough for the stock 1600), AC.Net L3 heads, a good 1 3/8" exhaust and an Engle W100 or W110 with a new set of Engle lifters would be a good street motor. Much better than trying to piece together a mish mosh of parts.

Tue Jul 03, 2012 5:05 pm

I am currently building something similar. I too am using the 88mm Thick Wall Cylinders. Using stock rods, crank, cam, lifters. Using a Schadek 26mm oil pump, full flow, and the best part is...MOFOCO 041 Heads. I haven't purchased the pushrods yet but I will be using the ac.net aluminum HD pushrods. As has already been stated...build it once and build it right. My engine is taking me awhile, I have been building it all year, but I know when I go to drive it to Houston, Dallas, B/CS, or work it will get me there, without breaking down hopefully. As has also already been stated use the Kadrons, better performance and gas mileage. Oh yeah and do NOT use the stock exhaust, its way too restrictive. Get either a Tri-Mil "hot dog" setup or a decent header and maybe a quiet pack or hide-away. Just my .02

:?: Do you really want to be yanking that engine back out in a few weeks because it cratered :?:

Tue Jul 03, 2012 5:11 pm

Dylon wrote:
- what cheap parts would you buy to enhance reliability or power?

none....

Tue Jul 03, 2012 6:08 pm

I "think" he meant inexpensive instead of cheap. I would go full flow with filter and cooler. Also, make sure you hone and ring your cylinders. Even though they are "quite new" 88s loose their rings faster then othe PCs

Tue Jul 03, 2012 6:50 pm

Multi69s wrote: I "think" he meant inexpensive instead of cheap

Indeed i meant inexpensive/affordable stuff. Sorry, english is my third langage.

Thanks all for your opinion, i have j tube and a quite new empi 2 tip ready to use for this build.

I don't know if i have "thick wall" 88mm or not, it is written "87.95" on the top of them and "AA"inside.

As suggested, i ll go full flow as it is inexpensive (i have access to shop tools)

Do not hesitate to contribute to this wonderful build :wink:

Tue Jul 03, 2012 7:07 pm

Measure your cylinders at the top (cylinder head) end, if they are like 5mm thick then you have a thick wall P/C set. If it's a lot thinner than that you got the bad ones. That's OK, stay tuned for someone to come on and tell you how they have 150,000 miles on theirs with 10.7:1 compression ratio. :lol:

Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:29 pm

DarthWeber wrote: That's OK, stay tuned for someone to come on and tell you how they have 150,000 miles on theirs with 10.7:1 compression ratio. :lol:

nah, that's with 87's.... :lol:

Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:30 pm

I have a few other languages too, I cant seem to get any of them right.(or so I'm told)
dont do a half ass motor or you will just be wasiting time&$&parts.do it right, do it once and be done and have fun with it.(and yes it can be done right with used parts&cheepley)

Wed Jul 04, 2012 4:08 am

DarthWeber wrote: Measure your cylinders at the top (cylinder head) end, if they are like 5mm thick then you have a thick wall P/C set. If it's a lot thinner than that you got the bad ones.

It's something around 3mm thick but not 5mm, i guess it's the thin wall, right?

I read that the problem with em is cylinder warping but insnt that supposed to happen if overheated? thefore if i assure a proper cooling (i have an additional oil cooler i will plug after the external oil filter on the full fulow) it should last correctly ?

Anyway, i have around $300 to improve the engine so if you think it's better, i can buy new 85.5mm AA pistons for around $100. This would leave 200$ for improvement.

Thanks for your help guys

Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:45 am

Probably the best thing that you can do for more power and reliability is to spend your budjet on going 90.5s and machine work. Then as your wallet gets fatter throw on some kads or baby webers.

Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:50 am

Where are you located?

Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:04 am

I would spend your improvement bucks on a better carb, kadrons or a single webber or dell.

Your rotations assembly can take all the rpm a vz14 and stock heads will do.

Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:34 am

You are going to need cut to length chrome moly pushrods, new lifters, and high rev single springs minimum to run the VZ 14, even for a play motor. See if you can't locate better carburetion than the 34 pict (even a 32/36 would be better). Run a 1&3/8 extractor w/ small 3 bolt flange w/ the stock valve heads. hope this helps

Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:35 am

tncsparky wrote: Where are you located?

France

SamT wrote: I would spend your improvement bucks on a better carb, kadrons or a single webber or dell.

Your rotations assembly can take all the rpm a vz14 and stock heads will do.

True but what if i modify my PICT34 (28-30mm and new air & fuel jets) ?