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Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:03 pm

I just put in my new motor. When i depress the pedal, the throttle opens all the way but fails to return to full shut. The return spring on the carb seems to have plenty of tension, but the pedal itself never fully returns. Is there a spring of some sort for thr pedal return too? This is on a 66.

Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:57 pm

What does the pin and arm on the throttle assembly look like?

Sun Sep 09, 2012 11:10 pm

No return spring up front, something is probably binding somewhere, either up front or the cable itself.

Look at the linkage up front for wear.. post a photo if possible.

Sun Sep 09, 2012 11:43 pm

I replaced all the forward linkage with WW. I will post a picture tomorrow as soon as i get a chance.

Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:52 am

My 67 had a similar issue because the spring metal behind the gas pedal had broken off, as I suspect yours has. After replacing the throttle pedal linkage like you did, it was better but not consistent. I then took a long, weak spring that I had in my parts box and hooked it to the linkage and connected it back to the cross beam. The pedal now returns fully with no problem. The key is to get a weak spring as you really only need to overcome slight friction.

Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:04 am

olliehank47 wrote: My 67 had a similar issue because the spring metal behind the gas pedal had broken off, as I suspect yours has. After replacing the throttle pedal linkage like you did, it was better but not consistent. I then took a long, weak spring that I had in my parts box and hooked it to the linkage and connected it back to the cross beam. The pedal now returns fully with no problem. The key is to get a weak spring as you really only need to overcome slight friction.
I was under the impression that there was NO springs up front, except a small flat one to hold the gas pedal pin in. Is it different on a '66?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=297464

Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:11 am

EverettB wrote: No return spring up front, something is probably binding somewhere, either up front or the cable itself..
Also look at the cable at the rear, got it wrapped around the clutch cable or is the guide tube bent (if you have one)?

Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:28 am

You might try cleaning out the tube the cable operates in. The rubber boots disintegrate and fall off and the all manner of crap gets in the tube. It doesn't take much sand in there to slow things down. I'll wager that when you pull some steel wool or a scotchbrite pad or something else through there that you will be astonished at the junk which has accumulated. I know I was :shock:

Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:31 am

Damn, just remembered I need to fix this on my bus too!

Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:10 pm

Culito wrote: olliehank47 wrote: My 67 had a similar issue because the spring metal behind the gas pedal had broken off, as I suspect yours has. After replacing the throttle pedal linkage like you did, it was better but not consistent. I then took a long, weak spring that I had in my parts box and hooked it to the linkage and connected it back to the cross beam. The pedal now returns fully with no problem. The key is to get a weak spring as you really only need to overcome slight friction.
I was under the impression that there was NO springs up front, except a small flat one to hold the gas pedal pin in. Is it different on a '66?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=297464

There is an "L" shaped spring metal piece that welds to the floor behind the gas pedal and pops the pedal back from the floor even if there is no throttle cable attached. This piece is out of sight from the driver and usually rust will cause it to break. This is what I was referring to: http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211721619
http://oacdp.org/5867part/367.png (#77 in the diagram.)

If any gas pedal falls to the floor when the linkage or throttle cable is disconnected, this spring is broken or missing.

Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:58 pm

Also, you might need to get old hardened grease out of the throttle cable tube. I greased the crap out of my throttle cable tube with tons of axle grease because of this problem. worked somewhat ok until the temp outside dropped below 30. Then the grease itself froze somewhat solid. It really sucks ass to break in a new engine in North Dakota, when your a newbie, especially at stop lights. Took off from the stoplight, floored it to take off, pedal stayed floored. Hit the brakes, did burnout when engine finally caught. Doing handstand on brakes, just about then the cable slowly relaxed and let off the throttle.. Id say clean out the tube and LIGHTLY grease the cable.

Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:07 pm

olliehank47 wrote: Culito wrote: olliehank47 wrote: My 67 had a similar issue because the spring metal behind the gas pedal had broken off, as I suspect yours has. After replacing the throttle pedal linkage like you did, it was better but not consistent. I then took a long, weak spring that I had in my parts box and hooked it to the linkage and connected it back to the cross beam. The pedal now returns fully with no problem. The key is to get a weak spring as you really only need to overcome slight friction.
I was under the impression that there was NO springs up front, except a small flat one to hold the gas pedal pin in. Is it different on a '66?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=297464

There is an "L" shaped spring metal piece that welds to the floor behind the gas pedal and pops the pedal back from the floor even if there is no throttle cable attached. This piece is out of sight from the driver and usually rust will cause it to break. This is what I was referring to: http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211721619
http://oacdp.org/5867part/367.png (#77 in the diagram.)

If any gas pedal falls to the floor when the linkage or throttle cable is disconnected, this spring is broken or missing.

I just replaced all the linkage and boot up front with WW parts and my pedal is working great. I was under the impression that L shaped spring metal you are referring to was only there to hold the pivot pin in place (since it fits perfectly in the notch in the pivot pin). It didn't seem to do anything for keeping the pedal off the floor (but that's not to say I didn't install it incorrectly!)

Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:41 pm

The spring on the floor just keeps the pivot pin from sliding out. It doesn't return the pedal at all if installed correctly.
I agree with the other posters--if the linkage is installed correctly front and rear, it's almost certainly some crap in the guide tube. Clean out tube with a frayed clutch cable chucked into a drill, then blow out with compressed air. Clean, grease and reinstall accelerator cable. Don't forget the little seal at the back.
Also look to see that the cable isn't catching on the trans case.

Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:41 pm

fluxcap wrote: olliehank47 wrote: Culito wrote: olliehank47 wrote: My 67 had a similar issue because the spring metal behind the gas pedal had broken off, as I suspect yours has. After replacing the throttle pedal linkage like you did, it was better but not consistent. I then took a long, weak spring that I had in my parts box and hooked it to the linkage and connected it back to the cross beam. The pedal now returns fully with no problem. The key is to get a weak spring as you really only need to overcome slight friction.
I was under the impression that there was NO springs up front, except a small flat one to hold the gas pedal pin in. Is it different on a '66?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=297464

There is an "L" shaped spring metal piece that welds to the floor behind the gas pedal and pops the pedal back from the floor even if there is no throttle cable attached. This piece is out of sight from the driver and usually rust will cause it to break. This is what I was referring to: http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211721619
http://oacdp.org/5867part/367.png (#77 in the diagram.)

If any gas pedal falls to the floor when the linkage or throttle cable is disconnected, this spring is broken or missing.

I just replaced all the linkage and boot up front with WW parts and my pedal is working great. I was under the impression that L shaped spring metal you are referring to was only there to hold the pivot pin in place (since it fits perfectly in the notch in the pivot pin). It didn't seem to do anything for keeping the pedal off the floor (but that's not to say I didn't install it incorrectly!)

Have you checked to make sure the thottle rod is operating smoothly through the boot that covers the hole in the floor and fits over the shaft on throttle. I have replaced two of these boots recently from WW and in both cases the throttle rod would not move smoothly through the boot and let the throttle return to idle position. A little wd-40 and working the throttle shaft back and forth through the new boot seemed to cure the problem. If you put on a new boot this may be the problem. Those new boots are too tight on that shaft.

Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:56 pm

bugcollections wrote: fluxcap wrote:
I just replaced all the linkage and boot up front with WW parts and my pedal is working great. I was under the impression that L shaped spring metal you are referring to was only there to hold the pivot pin in place (since it fits perfectly in the notch in the pivot pin). It didn't seem to do anything for keeping the pedal off the floor (but that's not to say I didn't install it incorrectly!)

Have you checked to make sure the thottle rod is operating smoothly through the boot that covers the hole in the floor and fits over the shaft on throttle. I have replaced two of these boots recently from WW and in both cases the throttle rod would not move smoothly through the boot and let the throttle return to idle position. A little wd-40 and working the throttle shaft back and forth through the new boot seemed to cure the problem. If you put on a new boot this may be the problem. Those new boots are too tight on that shaft.

Yeah, this one is operating nice and smooth. Not sure how recently you bought yours, but I got this one back around thanksgiving last year and have just been to lazy to actually get around to installing it. Maybe the more recent batches are having issues. I was blown away about the difference once I fixed the linkage. Before I could put my foot on the pedal and swivel the pedal about 30 degrees either way. Pedal now goes up and down smoothly with no side to side slop.

I did have binding one time also right after I installed a bowden tube to keep the cable from biting into the transmission. The solid strand cable had a slight kink in it. Without the bowden tube, it didn't hang up, but when I installed the bowden tube, that super small kink was dragging inside the bowden tube. I took my spare cable out from under the seat and installed it. Put the kinked one under the seat for a spare. Problem went away when the new (unkinked) cable was installed.

Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:14 pm

Well fixed the issue. I replaced the old throttle cable and pulled a large piece.of steel wool through the throttle tube. It works alot better now.

And it does look like i am missing that little metal tab behind the pedal.

Sun Aug 24, 2014 3:19 pm

long springs are being offered in pedal-pin kits. anyone install the spring, or know the the application on them? wondering if they replace the original 90 degree spring and encourage pedal return.

http://www.vw-wholesale.com/details.aspx?group=60&cat=202&subcat=1355&id=9578

Sun Aug 24, 2014 4:48 pm

I think those were on Beetles/Type 3s and Bay Windows(?)

I guess it could add a little bit extra of pedal return.

If your pedal doesn't return, you have other issues... why mask it with another spring.

Sun Aug 24, 2014 7:00 pm

stevo wrote: ...the original 90 degree spring and encourage pedal return.

The original bent flat leaf was only to hold the hinge pin from escaping.