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Fri Oct 03, 2003 1:41 pm

SO yesterday I drove my 71 square about 40 miles to look at some other parts squares. The trip out was perfect but on the way back I noticed the engine running a little rougher. We stopped to eat near my home then about a block from my house I lost all acceleration and was nearly dying. There was whislting sound as well. I got home then a few hours later I drove it a block and it died just before I parked. Today I started it and it barely ran. I pullled it into the garage and took off the air cleaner to find that the breather valve on the passenger side carb was not moving. Stuck completely open. I had a friend start it as I played with the valve and it ran a little bit better but not well .Also, there was white smoke coming from inside the carb. It seems like the spring that keeps the valve down is malfunctioning. Other than that I have no idea.I have "keeping your vw alive" and it was no help and my Bentley doesn't even mention carborators at all. Is it just the valve or is it something more serious?

Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:05 pm

What breather valve? I don't know of a breather valve on the stock dual carbs..

'71s are usually fuel injected.

Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:11 pm

Mine is dual carborated. Maybe I'm calling it the wrong thing. The metal flap the lets air in. The choke maybe?

Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:23 pm

Yes, the choke valve. If it's stuck open (so you can see down through the carb), that shouldn't be a problem since it opens after a couple minutes anyway (or it should if it's adjusted right).

If it's stuck closed, your will run like crap because it's being flooded on that one side with gas. Maybe your electric choke stopped working? You can wedge the choke open by loosening the 3 choke screws and turning the electric choke until the valve completely opens.

Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:27 pm

I have the opposite problem. The choke is stuck open. I can push it down and pull the throttle and feel it pushing the choke open slightly but when I let go it opens completely.

Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:32 pm

If it's stuck open, that is not a problem. Yes, you can still push it closed with your finger if it's open.

I think something else is wrong, maybe the balance tube came off that side? Or you have an intake leak on that side?

This brochure tells you how to balance the dual carbs and how they work, maybe it will help?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/t3dualcarbtuning/

I'd check your timing too, just in case your distributor is loose or your points are off.

Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:34 pm

thanks everett :)

Fri Oct 03, 2003 6:28 pm

Sounds like a bad needle and seat to me. I had this problem on my son's car a few weeks ago, and the right carb kept dumping fuel after it stalled. I took the carb off and cleaned everything up good (thinking it ingested some dirt or something), and put it back together. Tried it again and it was still doing it. Pulled it apart, and found the needle sticking in the open position. I changed it out with another one, and put it back together, and its fine now. Just something to think about, not all rebuild kits are created equal. I hope this helps.

Sat Oct 04, 2003 2:08 pm

Just for grins, while your looking down the the throat of your carb, make sure that the dump tube is aligned properly and not running down the side, as that can give you some trouble too. Dont be afraid to rebuild them just keep all the parts, clean all the parts well and buy the better kit. Bobnotch couldn't be more right, " all kits are not created equal". Any popping on deceleration or otherwise?

Mon Oct 06, 2003 12:28 pm

Finally. It had something clogging the drivers side carb. It runs now. But now I think the timing is off. I understand how to adjust it but I cannot find the screw to loosen the distributer. Now, I have a 71 square with dual carbs so I don't know if the engine is from a different year or converted to carbs or what, but my bentley is useless.

It runs and idles fine but when I accelerate it sort of sputters and blows white smoke out the pipes. It will get me to work today but its not running right.

thanks all.

Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:30 pm

It should be a 10mm nut on the inside (toward the center of the engine) on the rear (near the shroud) IF it still has the type3 bracket. If it was changed then it should be on the front (front is front) side. Try to keep the total timing to just under 32 degrees. I hope this helps.

Tue Oct 07, 2003 12:06 pm

Thanks Bobnotch, I found it. But now that I have the timing adjusted it still isn't running right. It seems like the 2 drivers side cylinders are firing but not as strong as the other side. It is giving me poor acceleration and little power. I'm goona go tinker some more. Any advice is appreciated.