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Mon Dec 17, 2012 5:17 pm

First the story. I have a bone stock 66 Squareback. (except the DDB Alternator and 12v conversion). The wife had been driving the car until the clutch went out. The wife and daughter towed it home. Now we have a dent in the chrome beak and the hood is tweaked. So it has been parked for about a year.
After pulling the engine, I found a broken clutch cross shaft. The engine had a slight knock so a rebuild was in order. It will be stock other than a counter balanced crank. All the engine parts are here and I hope to start assembly this weekend.
Now to the heart of the story. The wiring is in bad shape, hacked and extremely brittle. So I purchased a complete harness from ISP West at $318. Ouch ! This from the ISP West web site. "COMPLETE HARNESS
From Taillight to Headlight all the wires you need are included."
I got the shipment today, fast shipping I might add. The bag contained The wiring diagram and codes. (Nice)
The first thing to catch my eye was this statement:
"VW Type 3 BASIC Wiring KIT"
"This kit contains the basic wiring necessary to re-wire a typical early Type III. Wiring for the Steering Column Pod, Wiper Motor, Emergency Flashers, Marker Lights, Trunk Back-up lights and Choke ARE NOT INCLUDED."
So it looks like I will have to add wires to a COMPLETE WIRING HARNESS.
By the way, I am not complaining. I am very happy with the kit. It looks to be well made. I just wanted everyone to see where this project is starting from. Its been a while since I have posted any photos, so I will have to figure it out all over again.
Paul

Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:42 pm

i have a chrome peice if you need one

Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:37 am

Looks like you have a pretty nice og Squareback. I'll be watching for updates :)

Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:35 am

/pix/1015040.jpg[/img]Finishing up the engine this weekend. Here is a couple of photo showing the Type 4 oil cooler and the full flow oil lines. I will post more with[img]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery the tin in place over the oil cooler.

Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:46 pm

Looks like your engine is being rebuilt on a universal case (t-1/t-2/t-3). I hope you picked up an extra left upper engine tin, as you're going to need it to fit over the T-4 oil cooler (or are you adding a strip of metal, and forming it to fit?), and adjust it to fit around the new location for the oil pressure switch.
Have you installed the big cooling fan shroud yet? Just asking, as sometimes the relief cover on the oil pump, and those fittings don't quite clear the shroud. Just a heads up. The engine looks good though. :D

Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:34 pm

I am rather interested to see how this oil cooler pans out too

Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:49 pm

Getting everything to fit in there is a chore. A lot of trial fit-ups. Tapping the pipe threads a little at a time to get all the fittings pointed where they need to go. The oil pressure fitting is using a a small block at the usual type 1 location. I cut the cap off the cooling tin a raised the roof. I added foam strips from home depot to assure the air wont by-pass the cooler. I could have done a nicer job with bondo and such but this is a DD not a show car.

Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:59 pm

Looks good. It also looks like most of it's going to clear just fine. 8)

Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:03 pm

I did space out the cooling shroud about.100" just for extra clearance.

Sat Feb 09, 2013 1:23 pm

Finally got the engine back in. I had to remove the fan shroud as the oil lines were too long. You can't remove or install the oil lines without pulling the shroud. I made the oil filter bracket from aluminum and bolted it to the bumper bracket. I hope to fire the engine tomorrow but if it goes the way everything else has, it will be next week.
uglyoffroader

I will need to order one more clamp for the filter.

Sun Feb 10, 2013 9:50 am

very nice! which gene berg kit is that? i think i may pick one up myself since i have my engine torn back down. might as well do it now :)

Sun Feb 10, 2013 10:00 am

looking good

Sun Feb 10, 2013 10:07 am

Fabinstein wrote: very nice! which gene berg kit is that? i think i may pick one up myself since i have my engine torn back down. might as well do it now :)
The only Gene Berg part is the pressure relief cover. A word of caution, have everything in place before measuring the oil lines, or you may end up redoing the length of the lines.
Also you should be able to eliminate one of the return fittings. I used 3 fittings but you could use 1 90 deg street elbow at the case, then use a 90 deg adapter NPT to AN and use a 45 deg at the hose, like the one at the pump.
uglyoffroader

Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:21 pm

It seems like it took forever getting the engine ready to go in and finally got it running on Sunday. No problems getting her fired up. Ran if for about 20 min. getting the carbs dialed in. Shut it down to change the oil and there it was----. The dreaded front main seal leak. Crap---. Chainged the oil and filter anyway. Fired it up for a few miles on the road to seat the rings. But still have the leak. So I will start pulling it back out tomorrow. Sure wish I had a test stand ! I have also lost lost the clamp and spacer for the carb crossover tube. I have posted a wanted ad if anyone has an extra.
uglyoffroader

Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:31 pm

Ok, pulled the engine back out. The main seal did not appear to be leaking. It looked like the oil galley plug was leaking. Pulled it out and used blue loc-tite this time and made sure it was tight. Also during test drive, clutch was catching at the very top and no room to adjust. I pulled the clutch cable and found that I need to replace the clutch shaft as well. The hook is badly worn. The shifter was real sloppy, so I pulled it too. The hanger bushing was completely gone and the hanger its self was trashed. By following the great forum post, I was able to drill out the spot welds and replace the bracket. I will pick up a good clutch shaft tomorrow and get the cable hooked up and I will be ready to slide the engine in. Busy weekend.
Paul

Sun Mar 10, 2013 5:01 pm

Engine is back in-----leak is still there. So--- back out again. I guess I will replace the flywheel, although it had never given me a problem before.

Paul

Sun Nov 10, 2013 1:51 pm

Well the leak is fixed. One of the small oil galley plugs was leaking. So I have tackled the complete rewire. I purchase the complete harness from ISP WEST. Things went smoothly until I started connecting everything under the dash. Sure wish I had a good color printer! I made endless trip to the computer to check the wiring diagram and blow it up to great detail. I had to fabricate several jumper wires and had to extend the length on some to make it easier to hookup the gages. I finally got around to installing the cherry dash pad that I found 5 years ago. I am straightening one of the rear inner fender panels before hanging the rear fenders and new fender beading.
Paul

Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:24 pm

Well the rear fenders are installed. I had a hard time getting them to fit with the new seals. I also installed the tail lights, Then the fun part, hook up the battery and test all of the electrical system. Everything functions the way it should-----except the headlight dimmer relay. I tried jumping the brown/white wire to ground and get nothing. Is there any other test I can do before ordering a new dimmer relay?