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  View original topic: 67 Rear hatch hinge pin
jonboy Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:07 am

Hi guys,
Please note i have searched this forum extensively before posting this!

Having lived with the rear hatch of my 67 bus not opening fully (and risking knocking myself out on it) I thought I would see if anyone on here could help!

Basically it looks like the oval hinge pin has rounded out or broken at some point and previous owner has temporarily fixed it by using a coach bolt. However once the hatch is fully open it kind of snaps open and is very hard to get back past the pivot point so you can then shut it. Again in short term fix someone has taped a nut onto the stop pate to prevent the hatch from fully opening.
Please see pics.







Sooooo
1. Would I be able to fix this by simply replacing the broken pin (how is it even fixed ro the hinge)? or is the whole assembly knackered?

2. Is the oval hinge pin thingy an available part to buy?? (After much searching can't find any for a split, only early bays)

Hope this makes sense and any advice would be much appreciated.
Hopefully someone will be able to shed some light on this as would be nice to get it sorted :D
Cheers.
Jon.

KevinAlbrecht Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:43 am

I don't have a later bus any longer, so it has been awhile since I have looked in that area, but this thread may help. Looks like those hinges are under considerable tension, so I would be cautious:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327735

BarryL Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:06 am

You need a new arm or weld that and reshape it. You need the bush and pin.

If you want to just keep getting by, make a large bent screwdriver/prybar and always pry the tension down by sticking it into that slit area in the arms menagerie before shutting the hatch lower than the cocked point.

jonboy Fri Jun 14, 2013 12:46 pm

Thanks for the reply guys!
Kevin, thanks for the link. Did see that one before but could still do with some advice on whether it's just the pin that needs replacing or if the hinge arm has gone?

Barry, Do you think that my arm is knackered? how can you tell on the pics? should the arm be tighter together? does it look bent?

Anybody have any ideas on the part I need or where i can get hold of them?

I'm sure this is a real easy fix and I'm overlooking the obvious!!

Jon :D

BarryL Fri Jun 14, 2013 4:59 pm

jonboy wrote: Do you think that my arm is knackered? how can you tell on the pics?

I'll answer the questions and post a pic in the morning PDT.

cru62 Fri Jun 14, 2013 5:17 pm

jonboy wrote:
Anybody have any ideas on the part I need or where i can get hold of them?
Jon :D

The only source at the present time is buses that are being cut up. I have a '64 that is already cut up. I can check to see if the arms are any good.

jonboy Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:43 am

Thanks for replies!
Barry that would be great thanks.
cru62 I would be much obliged! Cheers.
Jon

BarryL Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:15 am

There's a high possibility that your parts are still usable.

Here's what the two hole should look like in the hinge arm looking through them down the the centers.



Here's the correct width. If yours is squished or spread you should be able to re-tweak it back to decent.



Here are the two type pins and bushings used on the rear hatch. The long ones are for the upper pivot.



Your repair will need the shorter style one.



Here's what the top of the pin looks like that interfaces with the oblonged hole.



Big Hatch busses use these parts as well as Squarebacks.

jonboy Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:41 am

Thank you Barry, fantastic info, just what I was after!!
Looking at that I think my hinges are ok but I have definitely got to source a pin and bushing!
Will get searching I guess!!
Any ideas what the bushing is made out of?
Many thanks again for the info and the pics.
Jon

BarryL Sat Jun 15, 2013 6:52 pm

jonboy wrote: Any ideas what the bushing is made out of?

Bronze or silicon bronze.

jonboy Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:09 am

Thanks Barry!

linwine Fri Feb 14, 2014 7:28 pm

how does the new pin and bushing go in???
I have 1 hinge that the bushing is gone so im going to replace it with the one I have on a parts bus but I don't want to tear it up when removing

BarryL Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:02 am

linwine wrote: how does the new pin and bushing go in???

They go in or out with mild interference fit. If you can set the part on the bench it's better as in situ you might need a helper to hold a backer weight. Pick an item to drift it out that is a smidgen smaller diameter. A long socket or bolt will usually do the trick. If you bugger the end a little it will file away nicely as they are brittle but strong.

Put a little grease on the new bushing and clean out the hole. Light taps with a little hammer or large channel locks will press the new one in.

The pins are a snap, litterally: just clean, grease, insert, and snap on the circlip. They are more frustrating mentally than they are hard physically, in my opinion.



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