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Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:26 pm

I made this post in the 68-later bug section but I think I'll get more input here.

I know there are tons of posts on this subject but I need specific help because of what a PO did to the car. So what I want to know is how the "nerf bar" type thing he added is going to effect the whole process of
replacing the heater channels and the floor pans. FYI this will be my first time doing anything like this and theres not to many people to help me up in wisconsin. I do plan however to get the bug me video.

I also want to know where you can find the best quality replacements heater channels, floor pans, and front cross member.

I have the option of buying a project pan for 600$ that comes with the everything but the floor pans (there already cut out), the tunnel and frame head are in pretty good shape and it also comes with a great front beam thats all nice and media blasted and powder coated. Do you guys think that it is worth having an original frame head instead of a replacement?

In the pictures below, where are the bolts to remove the pan? I know there are 5 bolts by the heater channels but where are they at? I think there under that other patch right next to the one I removed, am I right?

Then I watched the short bug me video on youtube and they have the convertible insert that strengthens the heater channel, is this worth getting since I have a baja? Also I will not be using the heater tube for heating because I removed the heater boxes.

Then do you guys think I should us POR-15 or Master Series? Then what is the price difference for doing an entire pan?

Then do you guys think I should be doing this in the first place? (replace the heater channels and floor pans) I know it would be easier to get a new project, which was my first thought but after looking in my area I found that the project cars I found are even worse, and I have the option to buy one down south and have it shipped up but that will be at least 1400$ and thats the lower number. I guess what it comes down to for me is what will cost less (I don't mind some work). The only thing I would need to get are the replacement parts and a welder (which I can get a good used one up here for 175$-325$).

Can a MIG welder setup for fluxcore do this job? Then when I actually do the job is it better to tack weld them in like the did in the factory or to do full beads where they tack welded?

Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:27 am

Run away. Leave that project to the pros, I think you'll spend more time and money trying to make that right.

Buy an airline ticket to a dry state buy a running car / project and drive it home.

btw: it looks like the PO covered all the pan bolts with riveted sheet metal...

Mon Jul 08, 2013 11:20 am

Yeah I plan on scrapping the pan, all I need to do is get the body off. I have a pan that I'm going to buy thats in good shape, all it needs are new floor pans (the floor pans are already cut out). I'm in the process of taking all that sheet metal off, and then I have to cut the floor pans he put in because they also cover the bolt holes, not a very smart idea to cover the bolt holes with 3 layers of sheet metal...more work for me I guess.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 1:14 pm

I started to tear down the interior and this is what I found, I never noticed this before. What do you guys think of this and how will this effect the body? My guess is that I'll have to buy a replacement for that whole area from the door to the rear fender.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 2:06 pm

Those probably are the repair panels, just easier to install overlapped verses butt weld. You can see the repair panel in this door picture too. But normally the repair panel stop after the first edge. The PO may have used donor panels to make the fix.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:46 pm

Duplicate thread, I moved your other one to Body/Paint so everything can be on one place.

Plesae use
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=562059