TheSamba.com :: View topic - Idle adjust on 34-PICT-3

Mon Oct 13, 2008 3:54 pm

busdaddy do you think it could be a stuck float? I went over and looked at vwmike311's bus and its way more than condensation like raw fuel runs in the intake and right out, and will barely run

Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:46 pm

It could easily be a stuck float, loose needle and seat or no gasket or a loose mainjet, or too much fuel pressure. Take off the carb and have a look inside, odds are Chinese quality control slipped up.

Mon Oct 13, 2008 6:59 pm

busdaddy wrote: It could easily be a stuck float, loose needle and seat or no gasket or a loose mainjet, or too much fuel pressure. Take off the carb and have a look inside, odds are Chinese quality control slipped up.

Amen Brotha!... several things to check if you are having that much fuel spilling over...

Tue Oct 14, 2008 8:36 am

Thanks guys! I will be checking it out tonight, and VWMike76 is gonna help me out, isn't that right Mike???? :shock:

Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:01 pm

Okay, so I took the carb off, and pulled the top of the carb off, and that main big gasket fit kinda funny. So much so, that when I pulled the float up, it would get jammed on it, like stuck open. I'm not sure if the float ever actually comes up this high or not, but regardless I can't see any good reason for all this extra gasket here. So I trimmed it, very carefully, also took out a couple jets, blew them out, and put it all back together, and I THINK things may okay now. It started up pretty good, and sounded like a bus should! It was kinda late, and my bus is kept at my sisters, so I couldn't really rev it up much, and wak all the neighbors. Soooo, I potentially could be driving my new bus by this weekend! :shock:

Thu Oct 16, 2008 10:37 am

you better be driving to work next week!

Sat Oct 25, 2008 6:25 pm

What does the Choke do?

Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:52 pm

Wilfredo Rumingan wrote: What does the Choke do?

I covered the choke setting on page one of this thread.... the choke richens the mixture when engine is cold until it warms up sufficiently.

keifernet wrote: Yes, and since you say your not sure your choke is working, or not adjusted right that could be a part of your problem.

first, I'm sure you at least have the wire from the 12V+ side of the coil attatched to the electromagnectic cutoff solenoid and then over to the choke.

With the engine COLD first thing in the AM

loosen the three screws on the choke hold down collar and rotate it counterclockwise till the butterfly (and the choke cam) moves nearly shut.
then the set screw will be on the upper notch of the fast ldle cam...

( open the throttle a bit to keep the screw on the throttle arm dis-engauged) until you set the choke

You should see a " dot" or a line scribed on the choke element housing
and then a few lines cast into the choke housing on the carb top.
these marks are a general referrence and sometimes ( mostly in the summer ) you have to go past them to get the choke to do it's job

It is important to remember to re-set the choke several times a year as the weather/ seasons change. ( the bi-metallic spring inside the choke element reacts to the ambiant temperature and the choke sets accordingly)

if the choke is set for summer setting the first cold morning it will be closed up tighter than a bulls ass in fly season, so back off it a bit or the engine will chug and run rich too long for cooler weather warmup.

vise versa for warm weather... if the element is not set tight enough the choke will not stay on long enough for the manifold to warm by the pre heater tubes and the engine will die the first few stops down the road.

Here in Houston ( and other Southern Cities/ climates) you have to almost re -set it in between every cold front/ snap/ warmup just to keep the engine starting and running smooth and easy in the AM and later in the day after work.

Sorry this got so long but it pretty much sums up the choke deal...! :roll:

Mon Nov 17, 2008 8:02 pm

Is there a starting point for the bypass screw?

Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:00 am

Vwman55 wrote: Is there a starting point for the bypass screw?

2 1/2 turns out.

Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:16 pm

Another solex 34PICT3 freshly rebuilt because it wouldnt idle.

After rebuilding it and reinstalling it, I noticed a tiny bit of fuel leaking around both sides of the throttle shaft. I never noticed this before the rebuild and am wondering whether I should even continue adjusting the settings and need to get it rebushed. Or maybe I missed something during the rebuild that is causing it to leak?

EDIT: I have tried many of the tips on this thread and still no luck getting my carb to idle. Rather than continue fishing for problems, is it fair to say that I should start from the very beginning and follow this entire procedure step by step in order to insure the quickest route to a good running carb?

http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

Sun Feb 08, 2009 7:34 pm

I have a 78 Super Beetle, I removed the fuel injection years ago and have had idle trouble ever since. I have a Bocar 34 PICT, my question is about the vacuum ports, I did not replace the distributor so it still has the fuel injection distributor, meaning no vacuum. I simply plugged the vacuum ports on the carb.
It seems like I got it to idle ok for a few years but it sat up for about 2 years and now won't idle at all. I took off the carb and somewhat took it apart and cleaned it, it looked ok?
I have tried all the adjustments, I may need to rebuild it but now it won't idle once it is warmed up, cold high idle is fine.
Do I need the vacuum? Am I going to need a new distributor? If so which one should I get?
Rusty

Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:26 pm

So if its 2.5 turns out for the bypass... how much for the volume screw? (for a good starting point anyways...)

Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:45 pm

sofakingcool wrote: So if its 2.5 turns out for the bypass... how much for the volume screw? (for a good starting point anyways...)

Generally 2-2.5 turns out on both of those screws will let the engine start and run to warm up and adjust further. IF you don't get much reaction out of either of them when you do start turning them then your carb or engine has other issues.

There is no "setting" screws X turns out that is going to make every engine run perfect/good and it's just meant to be a baseline.

Sat Apr 04, 2009 9:57 am

Turns out that idle jet in mine was my problem. it runs great backed out a 1/16th of a turn. Now to find some lock-tite or fingernail polish or something. I just left it sitting there for now.

I'm glad I stumbled in here (searching for wont idle gave me 7000 hits :))

BTW Engine RUNNING in thing! Clutch feels good. Brakes are scary - tires are studded snows. And it just started raining.

Thu May 28, 2009 12:12 pm

ok..had fuel starvation issues on my 73 1600 bay which i first traced to the fuel pump pin had shifted and i was only getting a dribble of gas to the carb...fitted new mech pump and now loads of gas but no idle and running rough up to 2000+ rpm. from this thread figured it could be the idle circuit causing the problem so removed and blew out the idle pilot jet as suggested. will idle now but only with the jet backed out about 1/2 turn which i could set with loctite as suggested.

one question...by doing this am i not just working round another issue somewhere else in the idle circuit..crud or else...?

Thu May 28, 2009 12:24 pm

Emeritusx wrote: Now to find some lock-tite or fingernail polish or something.
I'd avoid doing that - if that stuff ever got inside the carb, it'd be misery ever getting it out.

If the engine runs OK with the jet backed out, kinda indicates it's plugged up. Might be the wrong size. Might try replacing it.

Thu May 28, 2009 1:16 pm

seems a few folks have found a dab of loctite helps set the idle pilot when you back it out a tad...as long as you dont use a fistful then there shouldnt be an issue...

still would like to know whether doing this is a permanent fix..or just works round a different issue that should be sorted instead...like crud elsewhere..?

Thu May 28, 2009 1:25 pm

parsonjack wrote: seems a few folks have found a dab of loctite helps set the idle pilot when you back it out a tad...as long as you dont use a fistful then there shouldnt be an issue...

still would like to know whether doing this is a permanent fix..or just works round a different issue that should be sorted instead...like crud elsewhere..?

If you have stripped the carb, soaked it properly and blown out the passages and it still won't do it, then ( there is no crud?) it's as I have described before... the jet get's overtightened at some point in the life of the carb and needs to be set backed out a bit.

1/2 turn is a lot but I have seen it before. Usually it's just a tiny bit cracked from snug is all it takes.

You can try a different jet or a couple if you have access to some. A different jet ( of the same size even) can make a difference in that.

I agree with you...Loctite has never caused a problem and only an idiot would get it into the orifice of the carb so I think that point is irrelevant. It is what I have used on hundreds of carbs to hold the jet in place.

Thu May 28, 2009 1:43 pm

is the bocar idle pilot interchangeable with jets in rebuild kits or would i need a specific bocar jet? i've seen mention of them being different designs but woud like to know for sure. cheers.