TheSamba.com :: View topic - Starting to work on my 62 notch again, just need some answer

Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 pm

Where can I buy new metal floor pans for my notch? I'm removing the fiberglass ones. I removed the pan bolts but 3 will not come out, there loose but not releasing. And what's the easiest way to remove the body from pan? I will be constructing a rolling frame so the body can be transported to the body shop. All tips and help is appreciated. The previous owner sprayed expanding foam into the door heater channels. What would be the easiest way to remove this from the channel?

Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:57 pm

You can find new pans here:

http://klassicfab.com/klassicfab/index.php?id_category=14&controller=category&id_lang=3

As for the other questions, I've never done something like that so Im sure somebody else will chime in.

Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:20 pm

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=574362

Mon Oct 28, 2013 3:58 am

Expanding foam is disintegrated almost immediately by acetone or spray carb cleaner.

Both obviously VERY flammable....but as long as you're working outside in a well ventilated area.....

Try eather product on a small spot and see how it goes.

Dan

Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:08 am

You don't need/want to cut open the heater channels? You can cut the 1/2 pans out with the body still on the chassis. I wedge the perimeter pan down 1-2" so I don't cut on the heater channels. You won't use 100% of the new pans, but you haven't shown us how big your fiberglass pans are? Easy-Out the 3 spinning pan studs after you grind their heads off? Burn the foam out of the heater channels with a torch from the outside? Weld in the new pans while they are bolted to the heater channels. Doors/pans etc are still guaranteed to fit if you don't disturb the heater channels. Now you can separate the body from the pan to finish the welding and send the body out for bodywork/paint.

Mon Oct 28, 2013 10:10 am

Okay great thanks for info. Fiberglass pan halves are connected to heater channels and center tunnel. I will post some picks later today.

Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:08 pm

i found new pan at isp end they are perfect
Ron

Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:38 pm

You may want to cut an inspection hole in the rockers to see how bad they are. Monofoam retains moisture, so mine looked good from the outside, but the heater tubes were completely rotted.

Mon Oct 28, 2013 1:52 pm

some terma that may help.

VW's have floor pans.

These are type 3 floor pans, left and right. Each side is called a pan
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1061348

What ISP West has is pan halfs and quarters
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1203536

just clearing this up because if you think a pan half is the whole left side or right side pan, you will be disappointed when they get to you and it's only half a side. Hope that helps someone somewhere

Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:55 pm

I hope the pictures show up. Thanks for all the good advice. Tried the brake fluid cleaner and no dice will try acetone and hope it works. Please chime in if there's something you see in the pics.

Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:00 pm

Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:09 pm

Here are some more shots. The best part is my kid helping me. He's only 4 but love this car with a passion if I'm there he's there.

Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:10 am

A wire wheel on your drill is great for cleaning up the metal for welding/painting. Flap/cutting/grinding wheels & a sawzall all have there uses too. Take out or grind off all the bolts/screws holding the fiberglass. Stomp on the fiberglass to see if you can break the metal/resin bond intact? If it breaks you can grind it off with a flap wheel.

Tue Oct 29, 2013 11:24 am

62notchrc wrote: Where can I buy new metal floor pans for my notch? I'm removing the fiberglass ones. I removed the pan bolts but 3 will not come out, there loose but not releasing. And what's the easiest way to remove the body from pan? I will be constructing a rolling frame so the body can be transported to the body shop. All tips and help is appreciated. The previous owner sprayed expanding foam into the door heater channels. What would be the easiest way to remove this from the channel?

Going off your pics, you've got your work cut out for you. I'd try and get the screws out of the tunnel (rather than just grinding off the heads) first, then I'd drill out the heads IF you strip them out. As for the 3 pan bolts, you'll have to cut them off (just the heads for now), as the square nut inside the heater channel is spinning, and an "easy out" isn't going to remove them. Once you have the pan section off, then you can cut some "access holes" and remove and replace the busted weld nuts.
You're probably going to need a 4" grinder to remove some of the fiberglass bonding material (wear a resiperator for doing that), so you'll be able to figure out how the PO attached the fiberglass pans. It's going to be a real mess, but it's gotta get done, so you can get back to real metal. Look at the thread "how to install Gerson pans", as you're going to have to seperate the body from the pan (irregardless of what Mike says :roll: ), in order to be able to fix it enough to be able to re-use it. The PO didn't do you any favors, and I had to go look thru your original thread from August 9th, 2011 or http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=476082.

Thu Oct 31, 2013 4:11 pm

Okay here is an update. Fortunately the PO used black silicone to join fiberglass to body so I have been able to separate most of the pan and hope to have lift off by next week. Just have been removing more wires and parts off vehicle. I will start talking some detailed pics once I'm ready to remove the body.

Thu Oct 31, 2013 6:02 pm

62notchrc wrote: Okay here is an update. Fortunately the PO used black silicone to join fiberglass to body so I have been able to separate most of the pan and hope to have lift off by next week.

WOW, you got lucky then. I thought (going off your pics), that it was all fiberglassed to the body. Silicone makes removal a little easier. You're going to need to wax and grease remove the areas after you get the silicone off. :wink:

Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:39 pm

Okay here's a question for all you welders and fabricators. I need a welder and Harbor freight sells a 180amp mig/flux wire feed for $279 by Chicago Electric. Is this worth the buy and good enough for the work I am doing? What do you all say. Thank you

Fri Nov 01, 2013 11:10 pm

I can't comment on the quality, but I would suggest having money in your budget to include a bottle of gas and regulator.

Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:12 am

The welder you mentioned will be too much for sheet metal work. If you are asking will any of the welders that Harbor Freight is selling will do the job, then the answer is yes. I you plan to work mainly on thick metal, then the welder you mentioned is best. If you are mainly working on sheet metal, then get a 110V version.

Since you are asking about these welders, I am assuming you are a beginner/ never welded before. My advice to you is save your money and buy something better. There are so many little things about welders that you can't really explain to someone who has never welded. Some of the things just won't make sense to you until you have been welding for a while and then you will discover these things.

Your best option is to find a Miller 135 used. They usually are about $400, but very hard to find because everyone wants one of these. The Miller 140 is the same one with auto set which is useless and way more expensive new.

The main problem with the lower priced welders are the pre-selected stops on the voltage dial. You really get stuck between settings a lot. I have tried several welders, and all of them have something about them that lets me down. I have been using my Miller for 8 years almost welding everyday and not once have I had to replace or fix anything. I will leave it at that cuz things I want to say keep coming and this will turn into a novel if I explained everything.

As far as flux core is concerned, I would not use it. It is only good for fixing your tractor broke down in a field with gail force winds. In the comfort of your garage, flux core will impede your mastery of welding.

Sat Nov 02, 2013 7:11 am

Flux core also releases hundreds of molten steel balls to dance about on the floor and in your shoes [-X
I have a hobart handler 110v that does nice work on sheet metal.
Just make sure you practice on some sheet metal for a couple weeks before attacking your car.