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Thu Dec 04, 2003 3:07 pm

Ok This is the third time I have revisited this problem. My drivers side front rotor rubs on the brake pad once every revolution. It just touches it slightly. I have replaced the rotor the wheel bearings and races and the brake pads. I have adjusted the wheel bearings many times and tried them tight and loose. But still my brakes pulsate when depressed. I have new rubber hoses for my calipers all around and a new master cylinder and new rear cylinders. I have replaced everything I could think of. Could it be a bent spindle although I would think the rotor would be permanently cocked. I am baffled....

Thanks in advance

Thu Dec 04, 2003 6:14 pm

Have you checked the back drums. It is very common for them to get out of round to cause the brake pedal to pulsate. I have replaced many after they get cut once or twice they get hot and get egg shaped.

Thu Dec 04, 2003 6:39 pm

Hi Patrick...I'm pretty new to the V-dub scene, but have a lot of experience with american muscle cars. I had the same problem on a '70 Chevelle I had several years ago... turns out that rotors from just sitting around will slightly warp. Before installing new rotors, take them down and have the shop take a skin cut to make them perfectly true. Worked like a charm on my chevelle. Just today I received a new set of rotors for our bus. I'm going to drop them off in the AM to have them turned, then install them this weekend.
If you decide to try this, please post your results.

Thanks!

Ron

Thu Dec 04, 2003 9:36 pm

you really need a dial indicator and an arm (homemade or otherwise) for many vw repairs. i use mine for setting flywheel end play, cam end play, cam backlash, wheel bearing adjustment, etc etc etc. maybe 25 bucks for an adequate one. 40 bucks more for a locking flex arm. without an indicator reading you will never know what your rotor is all about. i have gotten new ones that had to be cut cuz it had .007" runout- the limit is .004". get a reading even if you have to pay someone 10 bucks for it. a little rub at the caliper happens even to rotors with less than .004" runout. also when doing wheel bearing replacement, it is common to find burrs on the seat beneath the outer bearing race - which is caused by side loading of the punch that drove out the old race. most mechanics are unaware of having caused it and it doesnt usually cause too much trouble, however, it could cause runout, which can be measured at the hub near the lug studs (rotor removed). just .002" at the hub will cause .006" at the edge of the rotor. check your back drums if the front is found to be ok... i have even seen drums that were bent from people hammering on them! keep all lug nuts torqued to 94 ft./lbs. if you want to buy the right tools i can email you some pages from an industrial supply catalog, if you like. thats the cheapest way to get the best stuff.