| Herman's Dad |
Fri Dec 12, 2003 4:23 pm |
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Since the wires to the rear window defogger switch in my '71 SB are not connected, I'm pretty certain it's not going to work that way!
Before I start rewiring it, should I get some sort of resistance between the two 1/4" spade plugs on the rear window grid? Right now, with my ohmmeter on the two terminals, I show 'infinite' resistance (i.e. - the guage never moves). I would suspect that I should see some movement if the rear window grid was okay, correct?
Thanks,
Larry
'71 SB - "Herman" |
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| Bruce |
Sat Dec 13, 2003 4:22 pm |
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| I think the proper resistance is around 4 ohms. Since you get an open cct, all the lines are broken. Its possible that some large object scratched the window when you were sticking something back there and cut the lines. If that's the case, Loctite makes a conductive paint you can repair it with. Most likely the entire grid is shot. The only alternative is a new rear window from VW (they are still available for under $200). |
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| Bookwus |
Thu Dec 25, 2003 7:26 pm |
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Hiya Lstregis,
Bruce is basically right on with his information. There are some additions which might be of help............
Generally when testing out the grid (spade to spade) a window which reads from 5 to 10 ohms is going to get the defrosting job done. Anything (more or less) besides that, forget it. Windows this old (I'm assuming this is the original) almost always have a completely shot grid. Not fixable at all. The repair kits are for small individual breaks, not massive failure. And if that weren't enough, the relay under the rear seat is often shot by this time also. A double-deader.
Oh, and about new windows.....Bruce may have a good price and info I don't. But when I bought my new rear window from VW last summer it cost $249.00 US and the VW regional warehouse (in LA) noted on the delivery that it was the last one they had in stock.
Mike
1970 AS Bug |
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