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Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:08 pm

I have been searching.

so I was able to use the thread info to get a great shift pattern, and now I even have to push down in reverse! So that's fixed. The big fix there was loosening the plate and moving shifter to the right and tightening, that is what worked in my case, with the problem of having to push down or not.

Now, It is still popping out and doing the grind in reverse under little load, this is a 67 bus. I can get it in fine, and roll, but if there is a hill, Pop! Any help on that piece? Thanks, great post. I know this is a common problem, in some cases...

Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:26 pm

Time for a trans rebuild if it pops out of gear. But, check your trans mounts first

Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:27 pm

New mount....that's what I am afraid of.

Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:52 pm

A new mount is what you should hope for. Much easier than taking the trans apart for a reverse gear. But repairing the reverse gear pop out is easier than forward gear pop outs....

Wed Jan 15, 2014 4:41 am

Sorry I was not clear. This bus has a new mount in it, less than a year ago. I am beginning to wonder if it is from the mickey mouse job on this shift rod. The front was welded to the rear rod rather than using the coupler, so the front rod is more forward, by 1/4 inch and the rear more back, not my handy work! It looks to me like they added some extra space in the weld, not being as together as a coupler would make it. Might this added space prevent the rear rod from being pulled forward enough to keep it in reverse? These are pics from earlier, a bushing has been installed.

Wed Jan 15, 2014 8:37 am

That could be....an easy way to tell (if it always pops out) is to put it in reverse, take your shifter out and give the shift rod a little, gentle, pry forward. Then back up to see if it pops out of gear.

If it doesn't, then you just need to manufacture a new shift rod made of carbon fibre with titanium couplers and floating roller bearings for support bushings.... or, shorten your rod a bit.

If you choose the shortening option, make sure you scribe the rod, so that when you weld it back up it stays oriented the way it was in relation to the two ends.

Gordo.

Wed Jan 15, 2014 8:41 am

Thanks Gordo!! I will look in the shed for some titanium. If not, maybe I will go with option #2!
:lol:

Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:19 am

Or find a remote place and put it in reverse. Then disconnect the coupler at the transmission and pull forward on the shaft carefully with pliers to make sure it's fully engaged. Now back around places and see if it pops out. If your dogleg has damage at the dimples it could be that. Reverse doesn't have the same mechanism as the typical "popping out" syndrome does.

Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:37 am

I like where this is headed!!!!

Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:49 am

BarryL wrote: Or find a remote place and put it in reverse. Then disconnect the coupler at the transmission and pull forward on the shaft carefully with pliers to make sure it's fully engaged. Now back around places and see if it pops out. If your dogleg has damage at the dimples it could be that. Reverse doesn't have the same mechanism as the typical "popping out" syndrome does.

Good advise. Is this an early trans, with non-synchro first gear? My '59 was like that... turned out to be a worn reverse sliding gear.

Hope for an easy fix first.

Gordo

Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:52 am

seizure66 wrote: Sorry I was not clear. This bus has a new mount in it, less than a year ago. I am beginning to wonder if it is from the mickey mouse job on this shift rod. The front was welded to the rear rod rather than using the coupler, so the front rod is more forward, by 1/4 inch and the rear more back, not my handy work! It looks to me like they added some extra space in the weld, not being as together as a coupler would make it. Might this added space prevent the rear rod from being pulled forward enough to keep it in reverse? These are pics from earlier, a bushing has been installed.

That looks horrible.

If the shift linkage is not like factory, it does throw the shifting off. That could well be the issue. Put it in reverse, and disconnect the shift linkage thing to separate the trans from the linkage, and check the tranny
If you've been popping out of gear a lot that linkage may have damaged the tranny.

If it were mine, and I found that ugly mess, I would have ground the coupler off, trying to save both front and rear rods. (wear eye protection) Remove the stick shift from the cab and disconnect the shift coupler at the tranny and you can pull the linkage forward a bit and get more clearance.

Hopefully one rod, if not both, is still usable under that.
Some people have said they have shifting issues with the new repro shift rods.
I've always looked for nice og parts, they fit right. And used a grub screw in the coupler, with the rod ends and coupler anti-seized so it comes apart easily next time. :D

Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:53 am

Quote: Good advise. Is this an early trans, with non-synchro first gear? My '59 was like that... turned out to be a worn reverse sliding gear.

Hope for an easy fix first.

Gordo

Probably not, if it's a 67

Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:49 pm

I just realized that's going to be hell getting a grinder all the way around that mess!! Thanks for the tips, I will let you know what pans out after BBB this weekend...not going to open it up before then. That's probably the only way to know, unless I can disconnect the rear and just see if I can buy some space...

Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:03 am

I'm guessing it would have been hard to get the welder to the top of the rod, too, so hopefully the welds are only where you can reach with the grinder.

Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:23 am

no way he got that mess in the bus after it was welded

guess the guy lost the grub screws and said screw it, i'll just weld the rod together

i would have to fix that too; even if you have to pull the motor and trans and pull the rod out to make it right; gives you a chance to fix any issues you have with the trans boots, mounts etc.

Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:08 pm

Get yourself a dremel cutting tool. Cut only those rooky welds. Torch it red hot and use this tie rod spreader to reach into that tight spot and wiggle that bad boy! No need to cutting through any coupler or shift rods! Hopefully this advise is not to late :shock:

Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:26 am

The dremel and heat are good ideas.

FWIW, that picture shows the earlier style linkage used through ch 835 xxx (62 ish)
It is not the same as the later linkage, which has two hollow tubes with straight ends, and nothing for a pickle fork to pry against.

Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:12 am

Clara wrote: The dremel and heat are good ideas.

FWIW, that picture shows the earlier style linkage used through ch 835 xxx (62 ish)
It is not the same as the later linkage, which has two hollow tubes with straight ends, and nothing for a pickle fork to pry against.

Heat will definatley get it loose and put a vise behind that pickle fork for prying.

Sat Jan 18, 2014 12:21 pm

seizure66 wrote: Sorry I was not clear. This bus has a new mount in it, less than a year ago. I am beginning to wonder if it is from the mickey mouse job on this shift rod. The front was welded to the rear rod rather than using the coupler, so the front rod is more forward, by 1/4 inch and the rear more back, not my handy work! It looks to me like they added some extra space in the weld, not being as together as a coupler would make it. Might this added space prevent the rear rod from being pulled forward enough to keep it in reverse? These are pics from earlier, a bushing has been installed.

Yes, that could be the problem. I would be surprised if it doesn't also affect 2 & 4 gear if not now, then eventually. The most likely reason there is not enough engagement in Reverse may be that the front of the reverse gears are knocked off due to a history of grinding going into reverse. Instead of the edges being sharp and flat they are most likely rounded off. Once you fix the rod problem, this one may resolve itself. But, it will ultimately need to be addressed.

Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:09 pm

Thanks for all the tips, have not gotten to it yet, just have not had time. I will do the dremel to start, have a whole pack of cut off wheels.....so I will keep you posted.