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Mon Dec 15, 2003 6:38 pm

it sure is cold driing my bug home in the poring rain at 10 at night.
there is nothing stoping the cold ass wind from comming under the trunk lid and through the dash to me. i have seen bugs with wireing covers that seporate the trunk area from the driver but every part catolog says n/a for supers??? its a 72 with header & j tubes so not heater, and the farther we get into winter the more this is buggin me (buggin me....haha)
also the guy at Vintage Tech the local vw shop said he has never seen a super with a wiring cover but he is a dip shit and has sold me shit i didnt need before, so i take his word for what it is worth to me and that is crap

thanks to any who reply
cold as fuk
joe

Mon Dec 15, 2003 6:47 pm

71 and 72 supers had the cardboard trunk liner that had panels that folded up and acted like the dashcover did on eariler regular bugs...

73 and later supers did not need them as the dash changes were an " improvement " ( at least some think it was and improvement... others they just hate supers anyway :wink: )

I can't stand not having heat and it's not even cold for all that many months here in Houston!, I say get some cardbord and some old towels or blankets and build yourself a wind barrier... I have done it before on various daily drivers to keep the wind chill through the dash down to a minimum.
Do you even have the drain box in place?? I hope... alot of wind comes through that vent... not to mention what condition your hood seal may be in?

Mon Dec 15, 2003 6:59 pm

i used the waded up blanket, that was my first idea. then the blanket got stuck in the wiper morot when i was on the freeway in the rain, that realy sucked ass! is there a after market company that makes a wireing cover that u know of?or is it "custom fab time " duct tape and cardboard for me?

thanks some more
joe

Sat Dec 27, 2003 12:36 pm

Wolfsburg West makes a very good reproduction for your car (http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg/interior/rubber_floor/trunk_liner.htm). I just purchased a set and they fit like the originls. There is an upper and a lower needed to do the complete job. They cost around $30 each and are made from pressed board covered in the original VW material. From what I was told these guys make them for everyone that shows them but their cost is 2 to 3 times less.

Sat Dec 27, 2003 3:02 pm

California Import Parts also has the two pieces lower one is $39.95 and the upper is $34.95. I had to trim the upper one to fit.

i

Sat Dec 27, 2003 6:07 pm

Lose the j-tubes and get some heater boxs and hook your heater back up. You still can run a header with heater boxs. You also might consider replacing the weather stripingaround the hood.

jeffrey

Sat Dec 27, 2003 8:27 pm

I'm not sure the trunk liners will solve his problem. I have them on mine and it doesn't cover the compartment that houses the drain and the wiper motor. I have a metal cover that screws in place over that box.

Two things that come to my mind: first, do you have the rubber seal in place around the trunk lid? That will keep a lot of cold air out. Second, does your car have dashboard vents? They are controlled by two rotary switches on the dash. If the vents are open it's going to let in lots of air via the grille at the base of the windshield. Unfortunately, to fix those you're going to have to disassemble part or all of the dash.

Sun Dec 28, 2003 11:31 am

79SuperVert is correct in that the trunk liners will do little to fix your problem. You mention you have a 72, same as mine. I just restored my entire car and put in a new dash, vents and everything else up there. The 72’s do not need to have the dash removed to get at the vents but the washer arm assembly and fresh air box definitely do need to come out if your going to do anything with the air horns coming in from the air box. If it were me I would stay clear of removing the air horns connected to the back side of the dash. They have been the worst part to get back in properly because of the way the snap into to two different recesses that you have to line up exactly to make them fit and you can’t see anything under there. However, everyone is correct in the fact that you need to have your seal around the trunk lid in good condition and sealing all the way around or you will get more air in than what was originally intended. You also need to make sure you have a good seal fitted on the top of the air box as well. Another hole you need to close up is the speaker opening if you no longer have one there or if the cone is disintegrated.

The two fresh air controls that were mentioned need to be working and connected or they will stay in a slightly open position. There is an adjustment noted in the Bentley manual you should check into that will make sure closed is closed. If they are working/adjusted properly and you still get cold air after you close them then you have to split open the fresh air box and replace the foam rubber on the flaps so they seal tight when you close them. I just did mine and used a couple of strips of weather stripping that I purchased at Home Depot and glued them with 3M weather strip adhesive. You should also make sure you have all the hoses connected properly or they will suck in cold air through the defroster vents.

The VW fresh air box is a good source of leaking cold air. The worm air was never intended to be directed thru the box, only fresh air so if you are missing any of the connections or controls you will not get heat in the dash no matter what you do and in fact get blasted by fresh air all the time. The heat to the side dash vents comes through three way inside the quarter panel and connected to the air horn that is connected to the fresh air box. When you close the fresh air box flaps you direct only heated air into the dash vents. That said, you will notice that the air horns are perforated and will still allow fresh air to pass through to the vents. VW had a small bit of insulation called a “sound barrier” wrapped around the bend in the air horn covering the perforations and overlapping the hose connecting it. I used a small amount of aluminum sided insulation (1/2 thick) and taped the ends with foil tape to seal it. If you look at the floor air ducts under the rear seat you will see the same perforated condition wrapped in insulation, you need to do the same at the air box. Next is the center vent; these are connected to the same three way I mentioned above and is intended to direct heated air only. I have seen many cars where people tried to connect them to the air horns with duct tape. They are not even the same size and not intended to be connected that way. Lastly, you want to make sure the window defroster vents are connected to the three way connector I mentioned. From inside the trunk area up in the corner you will see a short connector tube running up to the corner of the window. Many cars are missing the hose there and you will get fresh air directed in that opening if it is not connected. BFY and Wolfsburg West both sell all the proper sized original hoses to replace any you need to.

California Import do show your trunk liners at about the same cost of Wolfsburg West but the bottom is not in stock. Wolfsburg makes them upon request and I got mine in two days by calling them directly for it.