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OldSlammers Wed Jan 29, 2014 3:30 am

Last summer I had a 1915 in my Karmann Ghia. After a show the engine took a big shit. Turns out I broke a crank! Now I'm on a bigger and faster engine a 2276.

This is what I plan on running

My old AS41 case
82mm CW Crank from CB
CB 5.5 VW Journal Rods
New AA 94's (My old 94's barley have any ware, could I still use them with a stroker?)
Engle FK Series Cam (Not sure which one? FK87?)
CB Lifters
Heavily Port my 042 headswith 42x37.5
Scat 1.4 Rockers (Depending on cam)
44 Webers
1 5/8 merged exhaust
10.5:1? I want the compression a bit high. Weekend driver/Strip





I had my case sent out to Brotheres VW




Linebored, stroker clearance, full flowed, welded the center main (spread), decked case.

ALB Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:47 am

What cam was in the 1915? Did you like the powerband? The FK87 will make power to somewhere around 7500-8,000rpm if everything else is right (I think the 44's may hold it back), but at the expense lower end and midrange power, where you'll be 95% of the time on the street. Unless you're very dedicated and have close ratio gears to keep it in the powerband (and spend a lot of time at the track), it won't be a very fun car to drive. An FK8 (6500 peak)or even FK10 (7,000 or so) will allow you to drive the thing all over the place. Even though the 94's don't have much wear, the pin height is wrong and will make for an extremely wide engine with an 82mm crank, so a stroker p/c is in order. I would keep the compression down to about 9.25-9.5 for the FK8 and a half point higher for the FK10. You could run it a little higher, but you may not find it worth it for the extra little bit of power gained; you'll have to be spot on with the tune all the time and 1 bad batch of gas could spell disaster.

As usual, just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al

jfats808 Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:28 am

You'll need "B" set of pistons and cylinders. With the 5.5 rods, you'll need to shim a bit as with a normal 5.4 rodded -82 stroke you get a little negative deck ( sticks out past at TDC). Id go with a FK10cam, but make sure you get those 042s really ported out to get the most out of it and the higher duration from the cam. An FK8 would be a great cam if you decide to leave the heads as is. FK87 requires a bit more CR and better flowing heads. Good choice on lifters and good choice on rocker assemblies. 10.5 can work very well with that cam. My take.

[email protected] Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:36 am

Use a 86C or FK45-46.

Mark Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:01 am

Curious, what crank were you running in your 1915?

zac_atac44 Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:02 am

What kind of Crank did you have that broke?

OldSlammers Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:37 pm

ALB wrote: What cam was in the 1915? Did you like the powerband? The FK87 will make power to somewhere around 7500-8,000rpm if everything else is right (I think the 44's may hold it back), but at the expense lower end and midrange power, where you'll be 95% of the time on the street. Unless you're very dedicated and have close ratio gears to keep it in the powerband (and spend a lot of time at the track), it won't be a very fun car to drive. An FK8 (6500 peak)or even FK10 (7,000 or so) will allow you to drive the thing all over the place. Even though the 94's don't have much wear, the pin height is wrong and will make for an extremely wide engine with an 82mm crank, so a stroker p/c is in order. I would keep the compression down to about 9.25-9.5 for the FK8 and a half point higher for the FK10. You could run it a little higher, but you may not find it worth it for the extra little bit of power gained; you'll have to be spot on with the tune all the time and 1 bad batch of gas could spell disaster.

As usual, just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al

I had an Engle 110 in the 1915, I kind of like the FK8. I ran 9.5 in the 1915 thought I'd up it for a stroker. And for the p/c's that's what I've been reading for a stroker. I'll probably end up saving them and building a 2nd motor.

OldSlammers Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:38 pm

zac_atac44 wrote: What kind of Crank did you have that broke?


The crank was a stock German 69mm. Revving over 6k got it to snap

77charger Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:56 pm

More than 6500rpms is going to need forged pistons

Bugboy209 Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:38 pm

I see you picked up a set of AA pistons I would recommend you save up your $ and get some mahle stroker p's&c's the AA's are nice and pretty but that's about it sell the AAs

bugguy1967 Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:05 pm

77charger wrote: More than 6500rpms is going to need forged pistons

Why?

bugguy1967 Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:05 pm

Bugboy209 wrote: I see you picked up a set of AA pistons I would recommend you save up your $ and get some mahle stroker p's&c's the AA's are nice and pretty but that's about it sell the AAs

Why?

Bugboy209 Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:05 am

bugguy1967 wrote: Bugboy209 wrote: I see you picked up a set of AA pistons I would recommend you save up your $ and get some mahle stroker p's&c's the AA's are nice and pretty but that's about it sell the AAs

Why?

The casting is horrible and it also shows in the price


Invest in mahle the best you can get I put a set in my 1641 and my 2276

OldSlammers Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:00 pm

jfats808 wrote: You'll need "B" set of pistons and cylinders. With the 5.5 rods, you'll need to shim a bit as with a normal 5.4 rodded -82 stroke you get a little negative deck ( sticks out past at TDC). Id go with a FK10cam, but make sure you get those 042s really ported out to get the most out of it and the higher duration from the cam. An FK8 would be a great cam if you decide to leave the heads as is. FK87 requires a bit more CR and better flowing heads. Good choice on lifters and good choice on rocker assemblies. 10.5 can work very well with that cam. My take.


So I narrowed it down to the 5.4 Rods, but I am still deciding on a cam. Right now it's the FK10 or the FK87 the heads are going to be heavily ported. I've been reading on the forums about someone who has a set up similar to the one I'm going to build but drove it daily for 3 months. I'm not trying to drive it daily.

77charger Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:38 pm

bugguy1967 wrote: 77charger wrote: More than 6500rpms is going to need forged pistons

Why?
Stronger is the main reason the AAs are great for no turbo set ups where rpms are kept under 6500.I know a few builders who have used them also with no probs on motors set up for peak power under 6500.

I am using them in my 2275 right now i had mahles but for my build my keep it under 6500rpm.Money was tight at rebuild too and i needed new cylinders so i figured i would try the AAs out.The mahle pistons i had are still good so i just put them away.But for the price of vw stuff these days its going to be cheaper to go watercooled next time.

OldSlammers Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:43 am

Basically went an entire different direction with this build. I acquired a t3/t4 turbo and a hideaway turbo header for dead cheap in my local area for under $150, the turbo and the header basically brand new. Still going to be a stroker but running boost. Any recommendations on cam and CPR? I've heard people running 8-8.5 CPR with a fk8 but I'd like to keep it around 7.5:1 for more boost. What carbs should I run? I'm not really interested in going EFI, I have kadrons on hand but not to sure on them. What do youngish suggest?

MURZI Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:05 am

Call Vw paradise or Ron Lummus for a turbo cam. I believe the big boys are running a fk44/45 profile on a 112-114 CL

RoadRacer Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:22 pm

Another vote to lose the AAs, mine ended up costing me about $4,000:


Chip Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:14 pm

OldSlammers wrote: Basically went an entire different direction with this build. I acquired a t3/t4 turbo and a hideaway turbo header for dead cheap in my local area for under $150, the turbo and the header basically brand new. Still going to be a stroker but running boost. Any recommendations on cam and CPR? I've heard people running 8-8.5 CPR with a fk8 but I'd like to keep it around 7.5:1 for more boost. What carbs should I run? I'm not really interested in going EFI, I have kadrons on hand but not to sure on them. What do youngish suggest?
The fk8 is a great turbo cam. 86b is another good one. I have a Paradise Motorsport grind in mine now, its huge, probably only drives decent because of the efi.

I think 7.5:1 is not wise. I would go more compression and less boost. compression is gonna give the motor power when not on boost. High boost creates heat before air enters the combustion chamber. While it is cool to say that you can run 15psi on pump gas, you will have a pig to drive around town, that only wakes up when your foot is buried. VS a 9:1+ setup that runs maybe 10psi but makes the same power, and gets out of its own way while not boosting.

Want best of both worlds? Buy squishies.

58ragman Sun Sep 18, 2016 4:01 pm

RoadRacer wrote: Another vote to lose the AAs, mine ended up costing me about $4,000:



never ever use AA products regardless how many wins or loses they got proof in the pudding garbage parts is an expensive list that goes in the trash



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