TheSamba.com :: View topic - Passenger Van to Partial Camper Conversion

Mon Feb 24, 2014 1:31 pm

Hello All,

I recently got my hands on a Westfalia P22 interior (No stove, icebox instead of fridge, no propane, full width seat/bed) and am planning on installing most of it in my '81 passenger van. So far I'm planning on leaving out the overhead cabinet and rear closet to keep the full queen size bed.

Like so:

The issue I'm facing is that my van does not have the mounting brackets installed in the floor. I did cut them out of the donor van:

I also do not have the holes for the rearmost bolts of the bed hinges:

I have been researching this for a few weeks now and have managed to find a few threads with brief mentions of this issue but am looking for some more definite opinions/instructions or even pictures....

I have narrowed it down to 2 choices:

1.) Forget about the "correct" way, drill holes through the floor, use stainless nuts/bolts, seam sealer or similar underneath to keep moisture out. This is what needs to be done with the bed hinges anyway so might as well do the others like this as well, right? Pros: Easy and cheap. Cons: Most likely to eventually cause rust, not easy to remove cabinets frequently, have to re-do weatherproofing everytime, not "factory" and could impact resale value.... (Not like I'll ever sell this thing anyways!)

2.) Pay someone to weld the brackets in. Cons: Will cost money, will need to repaint.

I also have a swivel seat base to install with similar options.

So let's hear it: What would you do if you were me?

And if anyone has more info/pictures of option #1 (drilling holes) I would love to see them, there does not seem to be a lot of info on this method available on the site right now.

Thanks!

Mon Feb 24, 2014 1:48 pm

Drill holes and use stainless rivnuts. That could be a solution.

Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:13 pm

pre measure and mark out where the threaded blocks go,use an angle grinder or sander and remove the paint enough to be welded (also do this on the brackets as well),and remark with a sharpie.this will be a cheap and easy job for any decent welder with you having already done the prep work.Once the welding is done,simply touch up the paint.You already did the hard part of cutting the mounts out of the donor.
For the back seat top mount,you could easily also have a 6mm nut welded into a hole that you pre drill and prep.This will usually require you retapping the nut threads after exposure to the heat,also easy to do.

You will feel better with the parts installed safely like factory,and you SURE will feel better the next time you have to remove any of the cabinetry.It will be so much easier!

Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:34 pm

I'd use through bolts with washers and locking nuts. Makes it easier and will be plenty secure. No way it could rip through the sheet metal. I don't think you need to go through all the trouble of welding mounts.

Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:38 pm

We welded the mounts. It should be cheap and surely someone in your phone book has a small welder? Maybe a six pack? :lol:

Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:39 pm

a2d2 wrote:
Cons: Most likely to eventually cause rust, not easy to remove cabinets frequently, have to re-do weatherproofing everytime,

How frequently do you plan on having the cabinets out?

Mon Feb 24, 2014 3:36 pm

Red Beard wrote: a2d2 wrote:
Cons: Most likely to eventually cause rust, not easy to remove cabinets frequently, have to re-do weatherproofing everytime,

How frequently do you plan on having the cabinets out?

Ah yes... good question!

Call me a glutton for punishment if you will but I forsee taking the cabinets out at the very least every couple of years (most likely every winter for things like panel wax, looking for rust, cleaning, and future projects such as wiring, soundproofing, etc...).

This is why the welding option seems like the best bet but so far no one I've spoken to about it seems to think a case of beer is worth it and they all want money I should be using for other things - like lower ball joints!

If someone who has done it before made me feel better about the hole drilling option I might still go that way.

Another consideration I haven't mentioned yet is that I'm planning on moving the "kitchen" back a couple inches from the stock location so the drivers seat can go all the way back. This could of course be done by making a new hole in the bottom of the cabinet but it would be very easy to achieve with the "drill through the floor" method. If I were to weld it I would feel real funny about going through all the trouble and not putting the bracket in the stock location.

Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:57 pm

I have done it 10 times at least, always drilling, using longer bolts, and putting self locking nuts under the van. It is not rocket science. Use slightly oversize washers under the floor and put rubber washers between the floor and the metal washer to seal it some.

I would put the original stuff in completely as stock to help you locate everything properly. Then after the bed/bench is bolted in fully you can modify the position of the kitchen unit and then bolt it in. If you are installing the watertank there should be a tiny dimple on the floor where the tank drain needs to stick out under the van.

You may need to very slightly trim the back angled edge of the wood for the bench so the angled edge isn't touching the van metal.

I have put a couple of P22 interiors in later vans. The Vitrifrigo/Truckfridge units fit fine in place of the icebox. You can even add a burner or two to the sink top if you have a Westy stove donor to take parts from.

Mark

a2d2 wrote:
If someone who has done it before made me feel better about the hole drilling option I might still go that way. .....

Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:33 pm

Here's a thought.
Position your cabinets and run a drill through the holes at where the bolts go through the cabinets.
Figure out how long a stove bolt you need to come up through the floor and go through the bottom of the cabinet.
Put the stove bolt in place and use a sealant when you put the stove bolt in-add a washer and one nut to hole the bolt in place. Use Sikaflex or 3M 5200 as the sealant, but depending on which Sikaflex you use it would be permanent as is the 5200.

The length of the bolt above the nut would then come through the bottom of the cabinet. Use a good size "fender washer" and nut to hold it down.
The problem is the corrugated shape of the floor. If the nut you used to hold the bolt in place is on top of a corrugation then it is going to not let the cabinet sit flat so there is no reason you cannot move the bolt so it has the nut in the bottom of a corrugation.

The downside is you now have studs coming up out of the floor to catch your toes on if the cabinets are out.

Mon Feb 24, 2014 8:44 pm

crazyvwvanman wrote: I have done it 10 times at least, always drilling, using longer bolts, and putting self locking nuts under the van. It is not rocket science. Use slightly oversize washers under the floor and put rubber washers between the floor and the metal washer to seal it some.

a2d2 wrote:
If someone who has done it before made me feel better about the hole drilling option I might still go that way. .....

Thanks, that does make me feel better. Doing it that way so many times, I'm guessing you didn't have any rust/removal issues to speak of?

Quote: The length of the bolt above the nut would then come through the bottom of the cabinet. Use a good size "fender washer" and nut to hold it down.
The problem is the corrugated shape of the floor. If the nut you used to hold the bolt in place is on top of a corrugation then it is going to not let the cabinet sit flat so there is no reason you cannot move the bolt so it has the nut in the bottom of a corrugation.

Another interesting idea that crossed my mind... the only issue I see here is that it is likely that the bolts would have to stick up a bit higher inside the cabinets. Would also mean that the cabinets would need to be lifted over the bolts as opposed to sliding them out. No corrugation to worry about at the bolt locations.

Mon Apr 14, 2014 1:03 am

PDXWesty wrote: No way it could rip through the sheet metal.

Had a bit of an epiphany when I realized that it's not the strength of the sheet metal, bolts, or welded in nuts that is the issue - these mounting points are used to secure 3/8" plywood. I think the bolts will rip right through this thin wood before any of the other mounting options fail. It struck me that the other mounting points (not on the floor) are actually what makes the bed and cabinets so solid, not the little mounting brackets.

Knowing that, and not wanting to drill a bunch of holes in the floor or go through the hassle (and cost) of prepping and then re-painting after welding, I came up with another option: T-Nuts.

The subfloor in the donor van was secured to the metal with self tapping screws. Rather than do that, I chose to take advantage of the factory holes for the middle seat:

Used bolts with oversized rubber washers and fender washers from the underneath:

Cabinets can now be secured to the subfloor with the same method (T-nuts on the other side of the wood this time):

I hope I never get to test my theory by getting the van upside down but I feel pretty good about it so far. Once the Bed and Galley are actually secured to the metal at the other mounting points (metal Z-Bed rails and the much stronger 5/8" laminate) it should be rock solid.