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  View original topic: ICT Heat Spacers
one4house Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:15 am

Does anyone have a source for ICT heat spacers like these?

http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=100

I am looking for something in the USA.

I am having a heat soak issue on shutdown. Floats are good as far as setting. I put 3 extra gaskets to bring down fuel pressure. That helped a lot. Now I need to tackle the hot-start issue.

cmscott Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:00 am

Pierce Manifolds. Its under the fuel components tab at the top. I got them and they seemed to help with my hot start problems too.

VWporscheGT3 Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:28 am

Isolator blocks.... that is going to cause you trouble with rear dead to air cleaner clearances.

one4house Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:35 am

cmscott wrote: Pierce Manifolds. Its under the fuel components tab at the top. I got them and they seemed to help with my hot start problems too.

Thank you very much.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99005.117.htm

That is exactly what I was needing.

one4house Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:36 am

VWporscheGT3 wrote: Isolator blocks.... that is going to cause you trouble with rear dead to air cleaner clearances.

I totally agree on the driver's side. It is already tight, but I think I can make it work. The passenger side is OK.

I may have to trim a mall section off of a support bar under the rear deck. Only about 1/2 - 1", so it can be done, i think. ;)

VWporscheGT3 Thu Mar 06, 2014 12:05 pm

one4house wrote: VWporscheGT3 wrote: Isolator blocks.... that is going to cause you trouble with rear dead to air cleaner clearances.

I totally agree on the driver's side. It is already tight, but I think I can make it work. The passenger side is OK.

I may have to trim a mall section off of a support bar under the rear deck. Only about 1/2 - 1", so it can be done, i think. ;)

:D ok , every car is different.. I hope yours clears

Erik G Thu Mar 06, 2014 12:13 pm

try just putting the accelerator pedal down 3/4 of the way in a hot start situation. This is common, even with a brand new Type3, and is in the owners manual, as per a recent discussion here

one4house Thu Mar 06, 2014 12:27 pm

Erik G wrote: try just putting the accelerator pedal down 3/4 of the way in a hot start situation. This is common, even with a brand new Type3, and is in the owners manual, as per a recent discussion here

Mine goes far beyond just a hard restart. It actually vapor locks one side and sputters for about 3 blocks. Once it clears it runs fine.

If I sit towards the rear of the car on hot park, you can hear the fuel spew out of the bowls after a few minutes. Part of it is the paper thin gaskets on the car now. They will also be replaced. The other part is heat soak and boil over.

VWporscheGT3 Thu Mar 06, 2014 12:53 pm

one4house wrote: Erik G wrote: try just putting the accelerator pedal down 3/4 of the way in a hot start situation. This is common, even with a brand new Type3, and is in the owners manual, as per a recent discussion here

Mine goes far beyond just a hard restart. It actually vapor locks one side and sputters for about 3 blocks. Once it clears it runs fine.

If I sit towards the rear of the car on hot park, you can hear the fuel spew out of the bowls after a few minutes. Part of it is the paper thin gaskets on the car now. They will also be replaced. The other part is heat soak and boil over.

are you running paper gaskets under the manifolds or are you running those god aweful tin ones. if the tin, throw those things away and get some atleast .062" thick material under them, it will go a long way to helping hot start issues, I lived in the Antelope Valley in So cal, and had a similar problem, once i went to paper, and lightly rich-end the mixure on my jets the car was happy, until the next problem would rear its ugly head... lol. switch to paper thicker paper gaskets first. , for me I work at a gasket company so I got a selection of papers I can ... harvest... for my use.

Bobnotch Fri Mar 07, 2014 7:19 am

VWporscheGT3 wrote: one4house wrote: Erik G wrote: try just putting the accelerator pedal down 3/4 of the way in a hot start situation. This is common, even with a brand new Type3, and is in the owners manual, as per a recent discussion here

Mine goes far beyond just a hard restart. It actually vapor locks one side and sputters for about 3 blocks. Once it clears it runs fine.

If I sit towards the rear of the car on hot park, you can hear the fuel spew out of the bowls after a few minutes. Part of it is the paper thin gaskets on the car now. They will also be replaced. The other part is heat soak and boil over.

are you running paper gaskets under the manifolds or are you running those god aweful tin ones. if the tin, throw those things away and get some atleast .062" thick material under them, it will go a long way to helping hot start issues, I lived in the Antelope Valley in So cal, and had a similar problem, once i went to paper, and lightly rich-end the mixure on my jets the car was happy, until the next problem would rear its ugly head... lol. switch to paper thicker paper gaskets first. , for me I work at a gasket company so I got a selection of papers I can ... harvest... for my use.

Yup, I'm running the CB kit (as is my son), and it comes with thick paper gaskets for the head to manifold connection. Never had an issue with the carbs vapor locking. It's one of the reasons I like the CB kit, as it seems more correctly engineered for our cars (comes with a balance tube, jetted correctly, thick paper gaskets for both ends of the manifolds, and has a nice set of install instructions).
Seems you only hear about people having problems with the empi kit, as they didn't want to spend the extra 100 bucks. :roll: I realise that Adam's carbs came with the car though, so he had no control over that.

one4house Fri Mar 07, 2014 7:27 am

Yeah, mine are true Weber. I am still not happy with the thickness of the gaskets as a whole. I do not have the metal gaskets, but the gaskets I do have are paper thin.

I'm pretty sure some plastic spacers coupled with some ticker gasket material will make everything alright. The spacers should arrive tomorrow. I will let you know if it helps even though I am quite confident it will.

cmscott Fri Mar 07, 2014 12:34 pm

I have true Webers. I used cereal box or beer box type cardboard between the head and manifold and I have the same material on either side of the spacers. So it goes gasket, manifold, gasket, spacer, gasket, carb from bottom to top. I had that same problem with the fuel percolating after I parked on a hot day. So far it has disappeared. But yes, I did have to squish my driver side air cleaner down just a little bit. I would rather squish it down than cut the car. BTW, I have the small, round, rubber top type air filters that just go on with a hose clamp around the carb throat and I do have a balance tube as well.

one4house Fri Mar 07, 2014 12:41 pm

cmscott wrote: I have true Webers. I used cereal box or beer box type cardboard between the head and manifold and I have the same material on either side of the spacers. So it goes gasket, manifold, gasket, spacer, gasket, carb from bottom to top. I had that same problem with the fuel percolating after I parked on a hot day. So far it has disappeared. But yes, I did have to squish my driver side air cleaner down just a little bit. I would rather squish it down than cut the car. BTW, I have the small, round, rubber top type air filters that just go on with a hose clamp around the carb throat and I do have a balance tube as well.

Looks like you and I have the same setup. Soon I will have the heat-soak under control.


one4house Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:08 am

Well, I got the heat spacers and gaskets in yesterday. I took it for a cruise, and I have no change. It is still boiling over like it was.

That leads me to believe that I have a fuel pressure issue. I have already added 3 extra gaskets to try and lower it. That must not be enough.

I was saving a low-pressure electric fuel pump for install when I got the type 4 in. Now that project is on hold. I am going to go ahead and install it this afternoon and see if that gets rid of the problem.

I have checked the floats twice. I am confident that is it not a float setting issue. If the fuel pump does not do the trick I will be at a loss.

Here are some pictures of the spacer install. I also put up a picture of what was in the way of my driver's side carb. It was an old FI mounting bracket. I just cut it off and have plenty of clearance.






W1K1 Mon Mar 10, 2014 3:33 pm

Quote: That leads me to believe that I have a fuel pressure issue. I have already added 3 extra gaskets to try and lower it. That must not be enough.

if you're talking the paper thin gaskets that come with the seal kits, it won't make any difference using those. You need a gauge in the line to check the pressure as it's running, guessing will get you nowhere.
I have had stock reproduction pumps put out 7 PSI, which took a a stack of a couple 1/16" and 3/16" thick gaskets to get to the 2.5PSI I needed. Even my rebuild stock T3 pump was putting out 5PSI

one4house Mon Mar 10, 2014 5:18 pm

W1K1 wrote: Quote: That leads me to believe that I have a fuel pressure issue. I have already added 3 extra gaskets to try and lower it. That must not be enough.

if you're talking the paper thin gaskets that come with the seal kits, it won't make any difference using those. You need a gauge in the line to check the pressure as it's running, guessing will get you nowhere.
I have had stock reproduction pumps put out 7 PSI, which took a a stack of a couple 1/16" and 3/16" thick gaskets to get to the 2.5PSI I needed. Even my rebuild stock T3 pump was putting out 5PSI

I'm all good now. I got the Carter 2-4psi pump in this afternoon. I think it is all good.

EDIT: a little update after running the car for a few days with the new fuel pump setup. I still have hard hot-starts from heat soak. It is far better now, with the low flow pump, then it was before. The flood condition would last for a bit. Now it is just tough to start and then clears up.

It is a dramatic improvement. It is not yet "solved."



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