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gelos Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:56 am

Several years ago (2006) I bought a '75 transporter with a subpar engine that I decided to rebuild.
My original thread including the funny story (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=206197)

I bought a camper special engine kit from Jake Raby. I got pretty far until life got in the way. (two daughters, left my job, tried to run my own business and so on)

I pretty much got the engine done. I got as far as getting the longblock together and then the fan housing and fan.

The engine has been sitting on a stand in my garage since I stopped in 2008.

First thing I'm concerned with; is there anything I should do or be aware of because it's been sitting for a while?
I already turned it on the stand slightly and then squirted oil in the spark plug holes.

Items I need:

Fuel pump
What would be best for my setup and where in the bus should I put it?

Heat Exchangers
I had originally planned on converting to the '72-'74 style but I don't have all the tin for that. I'm now thinking I will just keep the '75 style to simplify things and keep the project from being overwhelming.

Muffler (I do have a EMPI mufflerwith the pipes painted black in its box that came with the bus when I bought it will that work?)

Details:
1975 transporter
camper special engine kit
dual delorto carbs

I would appreciate any help or advice you can give. Getting this done will do wonders for me.
Thanks!

Todd

gelos Thu Apr 10, 2014 6:21 am

Would anyone mind at least commenting about what I should do to an engine that's has never been started and has been sitting a few years?
Thanks!

FNGRUVN Thu Apr 10, 2014 6:26 am

I would turn the engine upside down on the engine stand and rotate the crank a few time to get the oil on the tops of the cylinders.....and don't put this project on the back burner again. :) Good luck and hope you're enjoying your bus soon.

Bleyseng Thu Apr 10, 2014 6:46 am

I would take the heads off and clean the rust off of the inside of the cylinders before anything else. Doesn't hurt to be safe rather than sorry. It's a half a days work.

williamM Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:09 am

Really don't think the heads need to come off if the intakes and exhaust had some kind of plugs to keep the big shit out.

We used to revive old boat motors from long term storage and seized engines from manifold failure by brute force and they never ran better.

So- would follow the inverted oil bath advice, fill the oil system with fresh new oil thru the pressure switch using a garden sprayer filled with oil- get it set up and have dinner- will be good when your finished- (want to catch it before it blows all the oil back out when empty)- Then load up all the tin and fire it up.

gelos Thu Apr 10, 2014 10:40 am

Thank you very much everyone!

All the holes have been plugged with those blue paper towels so there shouldn't be anything in there.
The exhaust on the bottom are open though.

I have one of those cameras on a 'snake'. Maybe I'll poke it in there.
If I see any junk.

I think I will go ahead and take the heads off. I'm a bit paranoid about doing the new engine break in properly.

I will try not to put this on the back burner again. I've just been a bit anxious about starting again and getting overwhelmed by all the details.

Thanks for your support!
Todd

Wildthings Thu Apr 10, 2014 3:52 pm

This is my system for prefilling the oil galleys through the hole for the oil pressure sensor. The funnel came from Walmart for use with filling Coleman camp stoves and has a fine screen inside.


FNGRUVN Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:09 pm

I wouldn't sweat it. People let their vehicles sit in the garage for over a year and not do anything other than charge the battery and fire it up. Your engine is preserved even better. You probably have white grease on the crank, cam and lifters. That's way more lubrication than an engine that's in a vehicle that's been sitting for a few months. If I were you I wouldn't worry about it.

Jake Raby Fri Apr 11, 2014 2:32 pm

If the rockers were installed and valves were open, those valve springs will be compromised and must be changed.

gelos Fri Apr 11, 2014 2:37 pm

Yes, the heads, push rods, valve covers, everything was installed.

I believe the heads came with the valves already installed so I don't know how to go about replacing them.

Suggestions?

Amskeptic Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:45 am

Jake Raby wrote: If the rockers were installed and valves were open, those valve springs will be compromised and must be changed.

Are you saying that a valve held in the open position for a long time changes the valve spring tension to such a degree that it must be replaced? Is this true for the valve springs you specifically used, or for all valve springs?
Colin

1FUNBUG Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:58 am

I've got everything but the F tubes available if you're interested. Most of the parts came from Carl a few years ago they're in great shape. Just PM me.

Jake Raby Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:21 am

Amskeptic wrote: Jake Raby wrote: If the rockers were installed and valves were open, those valve springs will be compromised and must be changed.

Are you saying that a valve held in the open position for a long time changes the valve spring tension to such a degree that it must be replaced? Is this true for the valve springs you specifically used, or for all valve springs?
Colin

Absolutely. The rate of the spring and its harmonic dampening characteristics can be compromised from being compressed for long periods of time.

I learned this after having customers break valve springs after an engine sat static for an extended period of time...

hen I carried out a study and proved it with stock and performance springs, both new and used.

Its just a matter of exposure and paying attention, some of us do this better than others.

m35k5 Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:52 am

Jake Raby wrote: If the rockers were installed and valves were open, those valve springs will be compromised and must be changed.
There is a bit of information on this here http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=519055
It kind of explains why, although my personal experiance over the years has showed that the only times I have had any issues has been with some of the high rpm/performance engines I've built and of those a couple experianced valve float at a lower rpm then origanally built for and ONE (out of many) had a broken spring. That being said its a good idea to replace them as its cheap insurance.

Jake Raby Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:54 am

I found this on engines that had never seen high RPM and only sat static for several years. Out of a set of 8 springs two of them would rate lower than the rest, obviously those two were open and the others weren't.

Tos of people have experienced this and never made the connection, I am sure.. Just like seized valve guides on new engines stemming from old fuel.

Situational awareness is is the determining factor so many times, but its what people lack the most.

gelos Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:17 pm

Where can I get valve springs for these heads? Also, what's a good resource for going the work?

Jake Raby Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:37 pm

The springs can be changed as a DIY.

The springs are carried by The Type 4 Store.

Cptn. Calzone Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:18 pm

After the springs are changed, look over the cylinders and squirt some oil on all of them , button her up torque everything and fill case with brad penn or comparable high zink good loil.Gently turn the motor by hand in the running direction.Complete the build carbs tin etc.get a bellhousing mounted to the motor and secured on the stand and fire that baby up.Far easier to pre run on the stand and dial in carbs this way.You will have a great expierence and learn alot

gelos Sun Apr 13, 2014 9:07 am

I looked through the Type4 store but I didn't see any valve springs. When I search for "springs" the only thing that comes up is a cylinder head.
Am I looking in the wrong place or is this a special order.

I have a case of the Brad Penn oil but I seem to be missing the plug screw that keeps the oil in the case. I'm not sure if the case halves I bought just didn't have one or it's laying around somewhere.

Where could I get a replacement?

Thanks again everyone.
Todd

Cptn. Calzone Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:06 am

Todd you can find that filler plug at plenty of t4 supply places.Busted bus here on the samba may have a used one.Are the carbs rebuilt?No reason to put them on a new motor if not, blackline racing specializes in dells ans webers.New intake gaskets ck tq on everything



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