TheSamba.com :: View topic - Reduced fill capacity on new Propane tank

Fri Apr 11, 2014 4:37 pm

Hello folks,

Got a strange phenomena on my Westy LP tank, I bought a brand new unit last year with a new regulator, both from the BusDepot, had it professionally installed too.

Last week it was acting like the tank was empty, I tested the fridge for about half an hour on propane and it went out, could not get the stove to lit, so I went to get a refill, Although I has been last fall that I refilled it I had a feeling that this time it did not last very long.

The tank only took 1.2 gallons of propane, I think it should be 2.8 when it was empty. Got it double checked by another propane company, the guy showed me that liquid is coming out the bleeder valve when opened, a sure sign that is filled to the brim. It also does not take any propane. Its full.

I am scratching my head why it got reduced capacity, especially since it is almost brand new. Used it last year and had it refilled maybe 3 times, everytime it was not empty.

Any suggestions, anybody experienced something similar?

Thanks in advance for all your guys and gals help
Elmar

Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:55 am

Bad service valve? I have read that sometime particals can get in the tank when filling and maybe some thing
has plugged it up.There may be something block the lines from the regulator also.

The other day I went to get my tanks filled. The tank for the stove/fridge took 1.6 gallons and the propex's
tank took 3.4 gallons. I didn't think the furnace tank was empty this winter but sure enough it was.

Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:18 am

jaeger74 wrote: Last week it was acting like the tank was empty, I tested the fridge for about half an hour on propane and it went out, could not get the stove to lit, so I went to get a refill...

The tank only took 1.2 gallons of propane

Ive had similar experience, not being able to light the stove, go to get a fill, and it only takes 1.x gallon instead of almost 3 (2.8 usually), not sure if its because the regulator is not set to proper pressure, or sticks, or what.

But, I dont think your tank capacity is the issue.

One thing you can try next time you think youre out of propane, is get some boiling water and throw it on the propane tank. You might be able to tell how full it is, by the way the condensation on the tank reveals which part is colder (the part that still has propane in it)

Just a guess, the problem weve had "could maybe" be due to the propane tank being cold, due to it being cold outside, so there may be less gaseous propane on top of the tank, and we burn it off.

What was the outside temperature when you could not get your stove to light, colder than 50F?

The hot water will also increase the gaseous phase of the liquid propane in the top of the tank. Your stove will probably light after that, if the tank is not actually empty..

How do you boil water when out of propane you might ask? I carry a spare green propane bottle and a cheap single burner I got from Wallmart for $19, pictured on the right, for just such occasions, when I run out of propane, since Westies have no gauge to tell you whats in the tank..

What we burn is the propane vapor, not the liquid, if you get my drift..

Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:45 am

First thought that comes to mind is- fairly new tank, partially refilled a couple times. Have you ever had more than 1.2 in there? Was the tank purged initially? I agree I'd be figuring out a way to determine the actual level in the tank and going from there.

Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:02 pm

And to your next question, how do verify the pressure setting, or adjust the Propane Pressure regulator
http://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html

if you have questions about how to use it, contact samba member westyventures

heres my manometer, water with a little milk for color

you have to undo one of your propane lines at the tank, and attach the hose, then SLOWLY open the pressure valve to read the pressure... then you turn the adjuster disk on the regulator (its under a cap, sorry no pics)

iirc, pressure increases as you turn the disk counterclockwise. But get a second opinion, its been a long while since I did mine..

you could try turning yours one turn without a manometer, but you wont know what your pressure is set to without a manometer..

consider going to an RV shop and paying them to verify and adjust your regulator...

Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:03 pm

Thanks everybody for their input. I have a hunch now that the regulator was never dialed in properly. If I am not to make my own manometer, are there companies that do the job for you? RV place maybe?

Thanks again,
Elmar

Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:35 pm

So there I was trying to keep my coffeepot warm over a low flame yesterday and the flame went out, couldn't get it to light again. No gas flow. Tank was just filled. Went to my preferred propane supplier today and they could only stuff 0.3 gallons in the tank.
I mentioned that I had just replaced the regulator and the guy said, "Oh, it's the check valve". "What check valve is that", you (and I) ask? "That would be the one fitted to new regulators nowadays." He showed me a new regulator (look in the input end, the end with the left-hand threaded nut that screws in to the supply valve) and there was a three-legged stainless steel "clip" in there. It holds a spring and a little plastic ball in place, same thing as inside your Windex (tm) sprayer.
(Edit) Further research reveals this to be an "over-flow" (as in, too much flow, not too full and spilling) prevention valve, not a check valve: http://www.motleyrvrepair.com/the_best_kept_secret.htm (Read about 1/3 way down, "The second new safety feature". The little plastic ball is trying to save you from unrestricted gas flow but doesn't know that it's all right. And it doesn't want to back down. They show a reset procedure.
I guess this is valid to protect you against your copper lines being torn loose in an accident and spewing propane, but I turn my tank off before driving so manage the risk that way.
So-the shop won't defeat one (liability, dontcha know) but they showed me that a small flat-bladed screwdriver can be shoved in there and twisted to remove the clip and the spring and ball will follow. And gas will flow freely again. And now it does.
Feedback, anyone?

Thu Apr 24, 2014 5:27 pm

I've done it once but will not ever do it again. Every now and then it happens I get too much pressure inside of them when they get filled. Just shut it off, all of it, and wait 10-15 min before turning it back on very slowly. I know there are also some YouTube vids of people doing it. Propane101.com might have some useful info also for later

Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:00 pm

Hnoroian wrote: I've done it once but will not ever do it again. Every now and then it happens I get too much pressure inside of them when they get filled. Just shut it off, all of it, and wait 10-15 min before turning it back on very slowly. I know there are also some YouTube vids of people doing it. Propane101.com might have some useful info also for later

Well, OK, but the pressure in the tank is totally dependent on the temperature of the liquid petroleum (not how full the tank is), certainly if it is overfilled you could get liquid down the line instead of the boiled-off vapor form (and that is a huge bad thing!) but I'm guessing that the surge when you turn on the tank valve first time and the lines to the appliances have to charge is the more likely cause if it shuts down on turn-on. In my case, I had run the burner on high for 15 minutes and then turned it down to low so I'm not sure why that little "over-flow protection valve" decided to protect me. So I "fired" it. I have also "fired" my seat-belt warning buzzer so I am really living on the edge. Hope I make it through the next trip alive.

Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:48 am

The check valve activates when the main valve is opened quickly. I've had the same hassles. They are designed for morons who disconnect the tank with the valve open, and prevent the LP from rushing out. You get low-no flow if it's tripped. Close the valve, disconnect the tank, (or open lines to the stove), wait, then s-l-o-w-l-y re-open the valve. Should work now.

First time you fill a new tank you should put a small charge in and then vent it to the air. Most tanks come with a tag telling you to do this. If you can't get a full charge in, then the overfill protection device is stuck, preventing a complete charge. I've tapped gently on the tank to get it to fall back down. Or in the case of a bottle, pick it up and drop it on its' base gently.

You can open the vent and charge until propane comes out, too. I've had to do that more than once.

Good luck, what a PITA it is.