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  View original topic: Rear Wheel Cylinder Brand?
Big Papi Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:00 pm

Which one is best?

http://www.busdepot.com/211611047fat

http://www.busdepot.com/211611047fmy

http://www.busdepot.com/211611047fbr

udidwht Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:31 pm

Purchased the following in early 2006 and they are still in great working order.

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=2392&category_id=71&category_parent_id=

richparker Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:25 pm

But the most expensive German made ones you can find.

larryducas Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:30 pm

I have had good luck with trw brazil, even tho maybe not the best.

I put 2 on a year ago

morymob Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:25 am

Take em apart & inspect finish of bore,if in q i do a quick pass with a fine hone, inspect rubber parts , piston fit. Lube rubber fit areas with brake fluid & coat piston & bore area it will travel with a hi-temp silicone i have used 4 yrs,Had some used 4 a very long time & not leak, my 2-cts.Used Braz & India ones, no difference yet.

ToolBox Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:58 am

morymob wrote: Take em apart & inspect finish of bore,if in q i do a quick pass with a fine hone, inspect rubber parts , piston fit. Lube rubber fit areas with brake fluid & coat piston & bore area it will travel with a hi-temp silicone i have used 4 yrs,Had some used 4 a very long time & not leak, my 2-cts.Used Braz & India ones, no difference yet.

What he said. I have white box front cylinders on my 59. Inspected, honed and cleaned before install. Rebuilt at 9 years just for piece of mind. do a full system bleed every 2 years with new brake fluid to keep moisture out of the system.

Desertbusman Wed Apr 16, 2014 3:52 pm

I've had no problems with TRW's

bowtiebug Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:11 pm

TRW's have served me well over the years never any issues ..

airschooled Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:05 pm

Aeromech showed me how to rebuild my existing VW cylinders. They didn't have any rust, so they only needed cleaning and new seals. I now have brake cylinder hones to use on rusty ones in the future. 5$ for seals and I've been on the road a while with many mountain passes- still leak-free and solid.

Desertbusman Thu Apr 17, 2014 12:19 am

I spent many years (or decades) rebuilding wheel (and master) cylinders. But new ones are so inexpensive on my dubs it hasn't been worth the hassle of rounding up a seal kit and doing the honing.

modok Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:54 pm

I just got some MADE IN CHINA rear wheel cylinders from bap-geon.
For a late bay bus if it matters.

The pistons in these things have no stops to prevent the pistons being pushed too far in. So how do you adjust the brakes??? Just tighten the star adjuster until the brake shoe smashes through the rubber boot?? nope. Tried that, and the emergency brakes hang up. No way to properly adjust them.

Which brands DO have a snapring stops on the pistons???? Or at least some stop of any kind.

airschooled Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:55 pm

modok wrote: I just got some MADE IN CHINA rear wheel cylinders from bap-geon.
For a late bay bus if it matters.

The pistons in these things have no stops to prevent the pistons being pushed too far in. So how do you adjust the brakes??? Just tighten the star adjuster until the brake shoe smashes through the rubber boot?? nope. Tried that, and the emergency brakes hang up. No way to properly adjust them.

Which brands DO have a snapring stops on the pistons???? Or at least some stop of any kind.

…Did you bleed the system first??

ToolBox Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:08 am

modok wrote: I just got some MADE IN CHINA rear wheel cylinders from bap-geon.
For a late bay bus if it matters.

The pistons in these things have no stops to prevent the pistons being pushed too far in. So how do you adjust the brakes??? Just tighten the star adjuster until the brake shoe smashes through the rubber boot?? nope. Tried that, and the emergency brakes hang up. No way to properly adjust them.

Which brands DO have a snapring stops on the pistons???? Or at least some stop of any kind.

The bar for the park brake keeps the shoes apart. There should be no stop for the pistons in the cylinder.

modok Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:50 am

ToolBox wrote:

The bar for the park brake keeps the shoes apart. There should be no stop for the pistons in the cylinder.

I think you are correct. Or to be more specific the barking brake does. Without the cable connected it does not(was there last night). This is a terrible design :cry:

The OE cylinder compresses to 3.060 at which point the ends of the metal pistons butt together, this allows you to adjust the brakes but no garantee that they are adjusted equally, but the new one is different design with cup seals.

I have not decided what to do yet. VW built it wrong in the first place and the new parts are worse. Yes I know that's high and mighty to say but there isn't any excuse. This type of no-stop cylinder is for self adjusting brakes.

I think I will use front super-beetle pistons in the chinese cylinders.

germansupplyscott Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:02 pm

i think this is what modok is referring to:








photos are an old Ate Bus rear cylinder. the snap rings on the piston stop it from getting too deep into the cylinder bore. i'll have a look at some new production german rear cylinders and see if they still have the rings on the pistons.

modok Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:23 pm

Thank you. They should have snap rings, OR have the metal pistons and o-ring lip seal like pictured above(like the original).

These things with no snapring and CUP type seals just can't be right.

For now I have used the "super" pistons in the china cylinder, but the groove is wider, so I welded the shoes to have .250" width on the ends where they sit in the piston's groove.

Just got the left side together and adjusted. whew. Customer only asked to have the brakes adjusted....... 10 hours later I'm halfway done :shock:

germansupplyscott Thu Jul 10, 2014 3:28 pm

when you say cup seals you mean the seal is on the end of the piston?

modok Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:53 pm

yeah, these have cup shaped rubber seal, sits on END of piston. all my type-1/3 ones are like that, pretty common.

The old bus ones having the seal go in a groove on the piston is a bit odd, but I guess it has to be like that, at least far as the original intent of the design.


I realized I could adjust the brakes with a super cylinder, then adjust the e-brake, then remove the drum and put the c-tec brand china cylinder in there and it would work.........but I came this far might as well fix it proper. Just drove it around the block, super pistons work fine :D



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