TheSamba.com :: View topic - 1971 Bay Rebuild with Subaru Motor- Sacramento

Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:53 am

Hey guys,

Just picked up a bus yesterday on 4/19/2014. I plan on fixing it up and making it a daily driver. Let me tell you my plans, but first, let me give a quick introduction.

I have owned two other ACVWs. My first when I was 16?, which was a 1967 Fastback that my father and I restored, drove then sold. The other was when I was around 20?, which was a 1967 Squareback that we restored, drove for a bit then sold. I never really planned on selling either of the cars, but I ended up doing so because I had a new dream and hope. Which led me to my newest purchase, a 1971 Deluxe Walk Through.

My father had quite a bit of information on bugs and type 3s, but when it comes to Type 2s, especially Bays, we don't know as much as we'd like. I will be asking several questions on what parts fit what years and just giving a general update to what we are doing.

The plan for this bus will be for it to be a nice "beater," a car I can just cruise around in and not be too overly concerned for a rock chip or a scratch or any other major damage. Just something I can drive and have a great time with. It will be going two tone, white on the upper half and a tan on the bottom half separated at the deluxe trim. It will be flat paint. I plan on placing a Subaru motor in the back, either a 2.0T or a 2.5, whichever I can more readily find. As far as interior goes, I want to place a z bed in the back eventually, get the fold out table and rumble seat and create a small cabinet next to the z bed that doesnt block the window. The door panels and headliner will be all wood. The floor will be rhino lined and have a rubber mat placed over it, no carpet for this car.

Here are some pictures of my bus and my old VWs! I will try to find one of the Squareback and definitely take more of the bus.

Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:24 am

Welcome! Best of luck with your '71. I love mine.

Sun Apr 20, 2014 12:48 pm

I saw that one, think I saw it on Craigslist. Congrats on getting it!

There are several Bay owners here in Sac. There is a small group of us that started a place on Facebook to hang out. We get together from time to time at the In and Out on Madison. Here's a link https://www.facebook.com/groups/NorCalBays/ , there's also this group on Facebook that is all types of VWs. https://www.facebook.com/groups/127458530727749/

Welcome to Bay ownership! :)

Sun Apr 20, 2014 2:09 pm

Elephant Mirrors, nice.
Tcash wrote: Here is a little information. Good Luck

Cleaning+Rodents+Hantavirus
Up in smoke... Bus fires... don't let it happen to you!
Volkswagen Type 2 Bus M-Plate Decoder
Bus VIN / Chassis Numbers
Type 2/Bus Owner's Manuals
Bus repair manuals
Bus parts manuals
Early Baywindow Bus Parts Book
Late Baywindow Bus Parts Fiche
Type 2 Wiring Diagrams
Model and Year Variations
Type 4: Secrets Revealed
Distributor Parts & Specifications
PARTS INTERCHANGE MANUAL
Youtube Videos

There is a ton of information located at the top of the Forum section.

Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:16 am

justcruzin wrote: I saw that one, think I saw it on Craigslist. Congrats on getting it!

There are several Bay owners here in Sac. There is a small group of us that started a place on Facebook to hang out. We get together from time to time at the In and Out on Madison. Here's a link https://www.facebook.com/groups/NorCalBays/ , there's also this group on Facebook that is all types of VWs. https://www.facebook.com/groups/127458530727749/

Welcome to Bay ownership! :)

Thanks, I will be sure to check it out!

The day after I got the bus home I decided to clean it out and really determine what I had gotten myself into. Turns out, it is solid except up front in the floor boards, but nothing my father and I can't handle.

Went searching for rust and definitely found it.

Driver side patch.

Can you identify what this was? Or if it was even stock? It may be of note to mention that the bus has a "Skylar Adventure Camping" (or something like that) step by the sliding door.

Going to pick up a gallon of primer and a gallon of POR15 today. Then stop by a local JDM yard to check out motors. Anyone have any suggestions on which Subaru motor to use or avoid?

Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:43 am

It's good to see the splitty look is really starting to catch on.

Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:33 am

The ej25 SOHC N/A seems to be the easiest conversion with the most available motors and easiest/cheapest to rebuild. I believe that motor was made between 2000-2004 before things like throttle by wire were used.

But almost any subi motor is possible but it's justca matter of money, fabrication skills, and time. The n/a ej25 SOHC seems to be the path of least resistance though.

Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:15 pm

ivwshane wrote: The ej25 SOHC N/A seems to be the easiest conversion with the most available motors and easiest/cheapest to rebuild... The n/a ej25 SOHC seems to be the path of least resistance though.

We're gonna have to agree to disagree. I say Skip the EJ25. They're prone to head gasket failure (literally, every single one) and they're an interference motor. Find yourself a nice non-interference EJ22. I have one in my bay and it's got plenty of balls. In fact, it's got just as much get-up-n-go as my 2004 Outback with the 2.5 (which, not so oddly enough, is on it's second round of head gasket problems! Yay!!)

Or... If you're feeling really saucy... build yourself a frankenmotor. 2.5 bottom end with non interference EJ22 heads. This increases the compression ratio and makes it more torquier. If that's a word. It'll also run off the 2.2L ECU and harness, which is-- by far-- the most well documented harness conversion.

Now for the normal run of Subee swap questions:
--What radiator set up are you going to use? Front? Underbelly? Rear?
--are you running heat (if yes you'll need a Tom Shiels thermo housing) or A/C? (then don't buy a reverse coolant manifold)
--Any thoughts on a starter motor upgrade?
--What are you gonna do for the sump?
--What are you gonna do for a harness? send it out? Do it yourself?
--What are you gonna do for exhaust?
--(insert more pertinent questions here)

Good luck.

Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:31 pm

Nepenthe88 wrote: We're gonna have to agree to disagree..

i agree :D

i saw the head gaskets you used in your thread, and about puked. don't want to start a war, and didn't want to post to your thread (hat's off, btw your bus looks like a ton of fun!) yes, there were head gasket issues but several supersessions (and 'expensive' custom gaskets) make it pretty much the installers fault for failure

poor repair procedures, re using head bolts etc give subies a bad rap...kind of like a T4 has a bad rap....

Tue Apr 22, 2014 8:34 pm

Wow. Sounds like you have got a super fun build ahead of you! I would love to stick a subie motor in my bus some day.

Good luck, can't wait for more progress!

Tue Apr 22, 2014 8:58 pm

Thanks for the replies guys. I think I will probably go with the 2.5l and replace all the head gaskets. It is the most readily available and cheap. Went to a local JDM place today and was told the motor and ecu would be 850 dollars!

Now to answer those subie questions...

Now for the normal run of Subee swap questions:
--What radiator set up are you going to use? Front? Underbelly? Rear?
Underbelly

--are you running heat (if yes you'll need a Tom Shiels thermo housing) or A/C? (then don't buy a reverse coolant manifold)
A/C

--Any thoughts on a starter motor upgrade?
None. Suggestions welcome.

--What are you gonna do for the sump?
Probably modify it to shorten if needed. Have the skills and know how if the sump is metal and not aluminum...

--What are you gonna do for a harness? send it out? Do it yourself?
Harness will be made by us, unless there is an easier not crazily expensive alternative.

--What are you gonna do for exhaust?
No idea, probably fab some random crap at first....

I will be running a VSS, likely from the CV joint and transmission. Still not quite sure how I will be mounting the motor itself though.

Also, as far as transmissions go....I have a stock 71 tranny. How will this fare with a subaru motor? I am already in talks with KED on which adapter plate I need to purchase.

Is there anything I need to have the ECU sent out for? Something like getting rid of certain features of the computer that will prevent it from operating in a project?

Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:57 pm

Oh skills... You can't just look at the Pretty pictures. I didn't install the head gaskets shown in my thread, that was done by the PO. I just posted his pictures. That and the Subaru dealer was the one who replaced the head gaskets on my 2.5L outback the first time.

Regardless.

The 2.2 is bulletproof. It's non interference. They're cheap and easy to come by. And you can still upgrade them if you want more torque by installing the heads on a 2.5 bottom end. It's just my opinion. Peeps gonna do what peeps gonna do.

Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:17 pm

nickg321 wrote: Thanks for the replies guys. I think I will probably go with the 2.5l and replace all the head gaskets. It is the most readily available and cheap. Went to a local JDM place today and was told the motor and ecu would be 850 dollars!

You should probably just find a donor car and buy that. There's ALL SORTS of stuff you might want to pluck off it, and after you sell the transmission and scrap the thing, you'll break even. I do see the appeal of a low mile JDM motor though.

You need to hit the brakes for a second though. I see you live in sacramento... california? You need to do some research in the vanagon section and find out exactly what you can and can not do in Cali in terms of a swap. As far as I know the only way to have an approved engine swap that will QUALIFY to be looked at and undergo emissions testing in that fair state is to follow in the footsteps of others. Basically, there's one approved configuration. It's a KEP adapter plate with an EJ22 + a specific exhaust and accessories. One of the swap companies (maybe KEP?) applied and got state approval for their particular assortment of parts, and unless things have changed, using that recipe is the only way to get a subee swapped bus on the road in Cali. Double check that for me. I just don't want to see you spend good money on a swap you can't get on the road.

nickg321 wrote: Also, as far as transmissions go....I have a stock 71 tranny. How will this fare with a subaru motor? I am already in talks with KED on which adapter plate I need to purchase.

Is there anything I need to have the ECU sent out for? Something like getting rid of certain features of the computer that will prevent it from operating in a project?

any stock transaxle will hold up to daily driving duty. and no there's nothing you need to send the ECU or harness out for that can't be done at home. Just, if you do go the JDM engine route, make sure that price includes the ECU AND the harness, cause it's a lot of work to get the harness out of the car and I'm not so sure they're gonna include that

Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:42 pm

Nepenthe88 wrote: ivwshane wrote: The ej25 SOHC N/A seems to be the easiest conversion with the most available motors and easiest/cheapest to rebuild... The n/a ej25 SOHC seems to be the path of least resistance though.

We're gonna have to agree to disagree. I say Skip the EJ25. They're prone to head gasket failure (literally, every single one) and they're an interference motor. Find yourself a nice non-interference EJ22. I have one in my bay and it's got plenty of balls. In fact, it's got just as much get-up-n-go as my 2004 Outback with the 2.5 (which, not so oddly enough, is on it's second round of head gasket problems! Yay!!)

Or... If you're feeling really saucy... build yourself a frankenmotor. 2.5 bottom end with non interference EJ22 heads. This increases the compression ratio and makes it more torquier. If that's a word. It'll also run off the 2.2L ECU and harness, which is-- by far-- the most well documented harness conversion.

Now for the normal run of Subee swap questions:
--What radiator set up are you going to use? Front? Underbelly? Rear?
--are you running heat (if yes you'll need a Tom Shiels thermo housing) or A/C? (then don't buy a reverse coolant manifold)
--Any thoughts on a starter motor upgrade?
--What are you gonna do for the sump?
--What are you gonna do for a harness? send it out? Do it yourself?
--What are you gonna do for exhaust?
--(insert more pertinent questions here)

Good luck.

I actually agree with you on the ej22. The problem I had was that they weren't as easy to find (although I was looking for the turbo'd version), without a ton of miles on them, unless you go jdm and it comes with the wiring harness and ECU. But yes, the ej22 is a super solid motor and probably the best subi motor of all time.

That's why I qualified my original post with the term "easiest".

Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:34 am

Nepenthe88 wrote: nickg321 wrote: Thanks for the replies guys. I think I will probably go with the 2.5l and replace all the head gaskets. It is the most readily available and cheap. Went to a local JDM place today and was told the motor and ecu would be 850 dollars!

You should probably just find a donor car and buy that. There's ALL SORTS of stuff you might want to pluck off it, and after you sell the transmission and scrap the thing, you'll break even. I do see the appeal of a low mile JDM motor though.

You need to hit the brakes for a second though. I see you live in sacramento... california? You need to do some research in the vanagon section and find out exactly what you can and can not do in Cali in terms of a swap. As far as I know the only way to have an approved engine swap that will QUALIFY to be looked at and undergo emissions testing in that fair state is to follow in the footsteps of others. Basically, there's one approved configuration. It's a KEP adapter plate with an EJ22 + a specific exhaust and accessories. One of the swap companies (maybe KEP?) applied and got state approval for their particular assortment of parts, and unless things have changed, using that recipe is the only way to get a subee swapped bus on the road in Cali. Double check that for me. I just don't want to see you spend good money on a swap you can't get on the road.

nickg321 wrote: Also, as far as transmissions go....I have a stock 71 tranny. How will this fare with a subaru motor? I am already in talks with KED on which adapter plate I need to purchase.

Is there anything I need to have the ECU sent out for? Something like getting rid of certain features of the computer that will prevent it from operating in a project?

any stock transaxle will hold up to daily driving duty. and no there's nothing you need to send the ECU or harness out for that can't be done at home. Just, if you do go the JDM engine route, make sure that price includes the ECU AND the harness, cause it's a lot of work to get the harness out of the car and I'm not so sure they're gonna include that

I do live in Sacramento, CA. I have never heard of any sort of regulation like that....as far as I know as long as my car is pre smog (which it is) I can do whatever the hell I want to do with it. So I am not overly concerned with that.

Knowing that I don't have to send the ECU is a relief, but I still need to have some sort of module that will trick the ECU into thinking certain sensors are there from what it sounds like. Also, a VSS installation.

Good news about the tranny, I didn't want to replace it.

JDM is the only practical route for me, due to a lack of storage. We work out of a 2 car garage and a driveway with a mother. Can't have two projects sitting out and about. JDM will provide the motor, ECU, partial harness (think they cut it from the engine bay) and I'll buy the condenser and radiator from them too.

I am stuck between a 2.2l and 2.5l. I think I may be leaning towards the 2.2l though. The bus doesn't need to be a powerhouse, as long as I can cruise at 80 comfortably and move out of my own way I will be happy. With that being said, the 2.2l supposedly loses like 20 HP and Torque compared to the 2.5l. Not sure how much of that I would really feel or notice. Also, the 2.2l is a non-interference motor and doesn't have the major head gasket issues. I can probably get both for the same price from the same place.

Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:26 am

Can someone help me read my VIN number? 221 is for microbus; left hand drive right sided sliding door.

Help with the rest !

VIN #: 2212155482

Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:47 pm

nickg321 wrote: I do live in Sacramento, CA. I have never heard of any sort of regulation like that....as far as I know as long as my car is pre smog (which it is) I can do whatever the hell I want to do with it. So I am not overly concerned with that.

Ah... see, this is where you're mistaken (though I agree with your sentiment), cause Cali has all sorts of smog rules, and those rules appear to be based on the powerplant used, not the age of the vehicle. Basically, the stock VW motor is grandfathered in because... well, just because. But once you do a swap Cali then requires the new vehicle to pass the same emissions test for that year's engine. Swap an early non-interference OBD1 2.2L and you can easily pass smog because there's not as much stock emissions sensors / equipment on it. Swap a later OBD2 2.5L and you need to make sure you don't have any emissions codes (and there's lots, and a bunch of them require doing extensive gas tank work to incorporate the gas tank level sensor / purge sensor, etc.) These things can be done, but it's easier with the OBD1 2.2L (that's why this engine is the gold standard Vanagon swap)

Basically, Cali emissions referees have seen enough swaps to recognize what's going on and have every right to refuse to smog test your vehicle... even if some will let it slide. But this means finding the right shop, or having a buddy or something, and that's a gamble! And after doing all the work, who wants to need to "chicken-bone, chicken-bone, lucky-lucky Chickenbone" their way through an emissions process to get their bus on the road?

The proper bureaucratic way to go about this is to get a CARB bar code which signifies that you've used the appropriate parts and pieces. From what I can tell all you need to do is buy the muffler and cat from KEP and they will give you one of these stickers. In the 90's KEP paid the big bucks to the state, had their engine swap looked at, emissions tested and got a permit of sorts (the CARB bar code) that they can give other subee swappers to signify that they've followed in approved footsteps. And then on top of that, the emissions folk will need to plug into the computer to check for any codes... and you'll actually have to PASS smog!!

To me, the extra horsepower / torque gains of a 2.5L isn't worth the hassle (and near impossibility) of trying to get all the OBD2 smog stuff to work. Not to mention the headgasket issues, and less well documented harness creation info, interference stuff, etc. I would do some research on the topic (basically, call KEP) and find out what you need to do to get the CARB bar code... and save yourself a potentially HUGE giant pain at a pont when you're gonna be super excited to go on roadtrips with Hot Hotties!

here's some Samba infoz:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=402272

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=351477

***EDIT***

nickg321 wrote: Is there anything I need to have the ECU sent out for? Something like getting rid of certain features of the computer that will prevent it from operating in a project?

Ah... Smallcar (which makes subee swap stuff) apparently makes an electronic doo-dad that tricks the ECU into thinking the proper emissions sensors exist by sending the appropriate signal at the appropriate time. This is one workthrough to get the vehicle to pass, but the shop would still have to agree to LOOK at the vehicle and smog it first (and BTW, they're SUPPOSED to look at all the parts of the swap to make sure it's done properly, and I don't know what--if any-- penalties there would be for getting caught cheating).. again, peeps gonna do what peeps gonna do. Good luck and keep us updated

Wed Apr 23, 2014 3:14 pm

[quote="Nepenthe88"] nickg321 wrote: I do live in Sacramento, CA. I have never heard of any sort of regulation like that....as far as I know as long as my car is pre smog (which it is) I can do whatever the hell I want to do with it. So I am not overly concerned with that.

Ah... see, this is where you're mistaken (though I agree with your sentiment), cause Cali has all sorts of smog rules, and those rules appear to be based on the powerplant used, not the age of the vehicle. Basically, the stock VW motor is grandfathered in because... well, just because. But once you do a swap Cali then requires the new vehicle to pass the same emissions test for that year's engine. Swap an early non-interference OBD1 2.2L and you can easily pass smog because there's not as much stock emissions sensors / equipment on it. Swap a later OBD2 2.5L and you need to make sure you don't have any emissions codes (and there's lots, and a bunch of them require doing extensive gas tank work to incorporate the gas tank level sensor / purge sensor, etc.) These things can be done, but it's easier with the OBD1 2.2L (that's why this engine is the gold standard Vanagon swap)

Basically, Cali emissions referees have seen enough swaps to recognize what's going on and have every right to refuse to smog test your vehicle... even if some will let it slide. But this means finding the right shop, or having a buddy or something, and that's a gamble! And after doing all the work, who wants to need to "chicken-bone, chicken-bone, lucky-lucky Chickenbone" their way through an emissions process to get their bus on the road?

The proper bureaucratic way to go about this is to get a CARB bar code which signifies that you've used the appropriate parts and pieces. From what I can tell all you need to do is buy the muffler and cat from KEP and they will give you one of these stickers. In the 90's KEP paid the big bucks to the state, had their engine swap looked at, emissions tested and got a permit of sorts (the CARB bar code) that they can give other subee swappers to signify that they've followed in approved footsteps. And then on top of that, the emissions folk will need to plug into the computer to check for any codes... and you'll actually have to PASS smog!!

To me, the extra horsepower / torque gains of a 2.5L isn't worth the hassle (and near impossibility) of trying to get all the OBD2 smog stuff to work. Not to mention the headgasket issues, and less well documented harness creation info, interference stuff, etc. I would do some research on the topic (basically, call KEP) and find out what you need to do to get the CARB bar code... and save yourself a potentially HUGE giant pain at a pont when you're gonna be super excited to go on roadtrips with Hot Hotties!

here's some Samba infoz:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=402272

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=351477

Interesting, I will have to dig a bit deeper, but I have always understood it as if the vehicle is older than 75, then no smog would be required regardless of the powerhouse. How would they even really know what is pushing my car around anyways? The actual CA smog site says that an exempt car is, a " gasoline powered vehicles 1975 and older." I know that hte vanagons get smogged because they are not made before 1975 or earlier causing them to be smogged initially. I will definitely take it into consideration though.

As far as OBD1 and OBD2 goes, can a 2.2l be an OBD2? I found that smallcar part last night and it seems like an easier way to maybe even clean up the harness instead of actually plugging them in someplace, unless I could clip it and just let it shoot out error codes...

Wed Apr 23, 2014 3:53 pm

nickg321 wrote: Interesting, I will have to dig a bit deeper, but I have always understood it as if the vehicle is older than 75, then no smog would be required regardless of the powerhouse. How would they even really know what is pushing my car around anyways? The actual CA smog site says that an exempt car is, a " gasoline powered vehicles 1975 and older." I know that hte vanagons get smogged because they are not made before 1975 or earlier causing them to be smogged initially. I will definitely take it into consideration though.

As far as OBD1 and OBD2 goes, can a 2.2l be an OBD2? I found that smallcar part last night and it seems like an easier way to maybe even clean up the harness instead of actually plugging them in someplace, unless I could clip it and just let it shoot out error codes...

Hmmm... I had it in my head that it would be difficult for me to move to Cali for the reasons I mentioned. BUT.. I have a 78 bus, so maybe that's why all this info was in my gord? You could be 100% I would still ask around though.

And yes. A 2.2L can be OBD2. I think it changed in '94 or '96? Both my subee lumps are from 1991, so that's what I know. Here's some pictures of my OBD1 harness after I cut it down (but before adding power and ground lines), there's really not much to it. I think the O2 sensor is the only thing you really have to worry about in terms of smog:

and here's one of the "brain" with the power and ground wires. It takes a little bit of figuring out, but isn't rocket science. More will be involved with newer engines:

and you may not NEED a VSS sensor. It all depends on the ECU you use (which might be the difference between manual v. automatic vehicles, no one really knows why). I know my harness runs just fine without one, but I made the wheel of death anyway. It certainly doesn't hurt and doesn't take much to fab up. Here's instructions from Andy Malec (he gave me permission to post this last year):

I made mine differently. Here's a pic of mine:

Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:07 pm

[quote="nickg321"] Nepenthe88 wrote: nickg321 wrote: I do live in Sacramento, CA. I have never heard of any sort of regulation like that....as far as I know as long as my car is pre smog (which it is) I can do whatever the hell I want to do with it. So I am not overly concerned with that.

Ah... see, this is where you're mistaken (though I agree with your sentiment), cause Cali has all sorts of smog rules, and those rules appear to be based on the powerplant used, not the age of the vehicle. Basically, the stock VW motor is grandfathered in because... well, just because. But once you do a swap Cali then requires the new vehicle to pass the same emissions test for that year's engine. Swap an early non-interference OBD1 2.2L and you can easily pass smog because there's not as much stock emissions sensors / equipment on it. Swap a later OBD2 2.5L and you need to make sure you don't have any emissions codes (and there's lots, and a bunch of them require doing extensive gas tank work to incorporate the gas tank level sensor / purge sensor, etc.) These things can be done, but it's easier with the OBD1 2.2L (that's why this engine is the gold standard Vanagon swap)

Basically, Cali emissions referees have seen enough swaps to recognize what's going on and have every right to refuse to smog test your vehicle... even if some will let it slide. But this means finding the right shop, or having a buddy or something, and that's a gamble! And after doing all the work, who wants to need to "chicken-bone, chicken-bone, lucky-lucky Chickenbone" their way through an emissions process to get their bus on the road?

The proper bureaucratic way to go about this is to get a CARB bar code which signifies that you've used the appropriate parts and pieces. From what I can tell all you need to do is buy the muffler and cat from KEP and they will give you one of these stickers. In the 90's KEP paid the big bucks to the state, had their engine swap looked at, emissions tested and got a permit of sorts (the CARB bar code) that they can give other subee swappers to signify that they've followed in approved footsteps. And then on top of that, the emissions folk will need to plug into the computer to check for any codes... and you'll actually have to PASS smog!!

To me, the extra horsepower / torque gains of a 2.5L isn't worth the hassle (and near impossibility) of trying to get all the OBD2 smog stuff to work. Not to mention the headgasket issues, and less well documented harness creation info, interference stuff, etc. I would do some research on the topic (basically, call KEP) and find out what you need to do to get the CARB bar code... and save yourself a potentially HUGE giant pain at a pont when you're gonna be super excited to go on roadtrips with Hot Hotties!

here's some Samba infoz:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=402272

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=351477

Interesting, I will have to dig a bit deeper, but I have always understood it as if the vehicle is older than 75, then no smog would be required regardless of the powerhouse. How would they even really know what is pushing my car around anyways? The actual CA smog site says that an exempt car is, a " gasoline powered vehicles 1975 and older." I know that hte vanagons get smogged because they are not made before 1975 or earlier causing them to be smogged initially. I will definitely take it into consideration though.

As far as OBD1 and OBD2 goes, can a 2.2l be an OBD2? I found that smallcar part last night and it seems like an easier way to maybe even clean up the harness instead of actually plugging them in someplace, unless I could clip it and just let it shoot out error codes...
Might be easier in the long run to just move. :idea: