TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue May 13, 2014 7:54 am

Hi,

I need some advice.

My engine is a 1776 with CB hi-flow manifold and single port intakes.

The carb is a Bocar 34 pict 3.

What I noticed is when accelerator pedal is fully pressed down, the throttle plate of the carb can still be opened 1/3 by hand.

I tried stretching the cable a bit more but then, the throttle plate does not close fully when I release the accelerator pedal.

It seems to me that the L lever included in the WW "accelerator lever rebuilt kit" has the holes for the accelerator cable drilled in a way that the cable is not pulled sufficiently. Perhaps the angles of hole for cable, hole for pin and for rod differ a little bit from OEM.

I sadly don't have the original lever anymore to compare if my theory is correct or not.

Could anyone compare the repro bit and the OEM and give some input ?

Thanks

Phil

Tue May 13, 2014 8:32 am

I get full throttle on mine with ww linkage.

Tue May 13, 2014 8:37 am

The last one I installed matched exactly against the original.

Make sure the mounting area for the L-bracket under your Bus is not bent.

Photos./info in this thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=297464

Bent

Straight

Tue May 13, 2014 12:05 pm

Thanks for your replies.

I have found out that it is the repro rubber boot through which the rod is placed that does not allow smooth action of the pedal.

Tue May 13, 2014 4:54 pm

Sometimes you have to weld the original hole and drill another further up on the throw of the arm. Whenever I do Kadron conversion, I find that the mod is necessary to get full throttle.

Tue May 13, 2014 5:33 pm

1950split wrote: Thanks for your replies.

I have found out that it is the repro rubber boot through which the rod is placed that does not allow smooth action of the pedal.

I have had this happen too, I put a little "Sil-Glyde" on the rod.

Wed May 14, 2014 5:17 am

Well, I cut off the top section of the boot where it is rubbing tightly against the rod and greased the boot. This did not help.

I have a new WW floor mat and actually the holes for pedals are not lining up with the holes in the floor. This might create the problem with the rubber boot.

Wed May 14, 2014 9:02 am

Post a photo of you linkage underneath, just in case something will look wrong to a member who views it.

Or... what Bulli Klinik said?

Wed May 14, 2014 11:40 am

Have a look at this, BEST bit of kit you could ad to your bus.

http://www.buttysbits.com/throttle-kits1.html

Wed May 14, 2014 11:48 am

oring71 wrote: Have a look at this, BEST bit of kit you could ad to your bus.

http://www.buttysbits.com/throttle-kits1.html

Looks nice, except the price.

Wed May 14, 2014 2:12 pm

KevinAlbrecht wrote: oring71 wrote: Have a look at this, BEST bit of kit you could ad to your bus.

http://www.buttysbits.com/throttle-kits1.html

Looks nice, except the price.

If you have a LHD then not so, now have a look at the price of the RHD kit :) i steeped up and got one for my RHD and it was worth every penny.A very well made bit of kit.
I guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Wed May 14, 2014 2:25 pm

oring71 wrote: KevinAlbrecht wrote: oring71 wrote: Have a look at this, BEST bit of kit you could ad to your bus.

http://www.buttysbits.com/throttle-kits1.html

Looks nice, except the price.

If you have a LHD then not so, now have a look at the price of the RHD kit :) i steeped up and got one for my RHD and it was worth every penny.A very well made bit of kit.
I guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Agreed, the RHD is quite a bit more, but converting GBP to USD, make it out to $80+. I bithigh if you have a working pedal, but I suppose it all depends on perspective :wink:

Wed May 14, 2014 2:49 pm

KevinAlbrecht wrote: oring71 wrote: KevinAlbrecht wrote: oring71 wrote: Have a look at this, BEST bit of kit you could ad to your bus.

http://www.buttysbits.com/throttle-kits1.html

Looks nice, except the price.

If you have a LHD then not so, now have a look at the price of the RHD kit :) i steeped up and got one for my RHD and it was worth every penny.A very well made bit of kit.
I guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Agreed, the RHD is quite a bit more, but converting GBP to USD, make it out to $80+. I bithigh if you have a working pedal, but I suppose it all depends on perspective :wink:

for LHD bus you could pieces this kit together from the local nut&bolt supply store or even a hardware store for about $20 vs. whatever 16 uk dollars plus shipping equals :wink:

Wed May 14, 2014 2:53 pm

joe56vw wrote:

for LHD bus you could pieces this kit together from the local nut&bolt supply store or even a hardware store for about $20 vs. whatever 16 uk dollars plus shipping equals :wink:

Joe, I am not certain where you saw 16 GBP for the LHD. I see 50GBP, which is steeep.

Wed May 14, 2014 2:58 pm

KevinAlbrecht wrote: joe56vw wrote:

for LHD bus you could pieces this kit together from the local nut&bolt supply store or even a hardware store for about $20 vs. whatever 16 uk dollars plus shipping equals :wink:

Joe, I am not certain where you saw 16 GBP for the LHD. I see 50GBP, which is steeep.

at the bottom of the page but now that I look at it again it's just the rod and the ends

either way you buy the kit the LHD stuff is just way overpriced IMO then you have to have it shipped from the UK :roll:

Wed May 14, 2014 11:29 pm

joe56vw wrote:
either way you buy the kit the LHD stuff is just way overpriced IMO then you have to have it shipped from the UK :roll:
Says shipping is included. Looks pretty nice.

Fri May 16, 2014 7:02 am

I find that making repairs to the original part, which in many cases has lasted 50 plus years and was used on millions of transporters, is usually the best solution. Brazing or welding a washer to the either end of the pushrod will prevent it from cocking sideways at the pedal or lower pivot. It lasts forever and costs nothing but a little time and attention to detail. Besides, my Buses reject all that is billet.

Fri May 16, 2014 7:37 am

I am with Bulli Klinik. This thing is not only costly but looks ugly to me. :?

In addition I am not sure that the linkage is mounted with bearings at all rotating points, which would induce premature wear..