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Fri May 23, 2014 9:03 am

Hi,

I have a vw bus 1970 and I recently repair the motor. The guy said that he was going to do some "tuning" on the heads and if I wanted to upgrade to a W100 Engle high performance camshafts. And so I did hoping that it would run a little faster and smother and I wasn't going to need to down shift to 3 when in an uphill. Well it hasn't work that well .. Actually he says that the motor is getting hotter because there is not enough air flowing in. He is suggesting that I should get an 1.8 exhaust :( (I currently have a vw bug exhaust )

Let me also point out that I am using a little bit bigger tires that the original ones .

Let me know what you think and thanks for your help!!

Fri May 23, 2014 9:27 am

How much do you want to spend?

Fri May 23, 2014 9:55 am

Sambabus.
Thanks for your reply

Well I wanted to know if he was right about the nodding to upgrade my exhaust and the motor needing more air so it doesn't get hot .. Do you thinks that's the issue ?

I have look for exhaust systems and they are quite spensive :( http://shop.vintagespeed.com.tw/s.nl/it.A/id.13/.f

And the original exhaust cost in Mexico 300 US dollars .. Do you think it would work with an original exhaust ?

Fri May 23, 2014 10:00 am

Is it a single port engine with the non dog-house? If so that will make it run hotter especially with a cam! Make sure your engine compartment seal is good, If they suck in hot air from under the engine that does not help them cool down. The W-100 is a great upgrade for a stock carb engine! I had on in my 67 beetle it did run hot. In the bug it did allow me to pull the hills a lot better but in a bus? Doubt it will help much with hills in the bus, especially with the higher gearing with the big tires.

It could be that the motor just isn't timed correctly. Set it at 30' with the vac-lines removed! (Re-connect Vac-lines) Timing makes a huge difference in how hot your engine gets and MPG's and how it will climb.

As for the exhaust yes, a stock bug exhaust will stifle your W-100 cam engine a lot, more in third gear than fourth though!
You need something like the 1 3/8" 4 into 1 Empi or bug pack with a quite pack muffler.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DD%2D2031%2D10 PS That nice Stainless Steel Exhaust system is a really nice system as far as looks go but performance wise it has two problems.
1st it's 38mm 1 1/2" too big, It will take away your low end.
2nd it's not tuned like a extractor is and won't help your high end as much as a less expensive extractor, Any equal length extractor would be better. But go with a 1 3/8" Small size one. Think that's 35mm!

Fri May 23, 2014 10:07 am

I'm running a Bugpack header and it cost a lot less than that. But your heat problem would be something else. Search this forum and you'll find many topics about heat. And how do you know its hot?

Are all the tins and seals where they should be and in good condition? Is it timed correctly? Running lean? Are you driving it too fast?

Fri May 23, 2014 11:20 am

Thanks for your input Danwvw,

It is a dual port engine ( the heads have two holes.. Is that what you mean ?) I don't know very mouth about engines .

One thing I forgot to mention is that when I disconnect the air filter works much better .

All the air seals are on place and new .

Fri May 23, 2014 1:03 pm

A mild cam upgrade and mild headwork isn't going to make it run hotter or require a bigger exhaust. If I was you I'd stay clear of this shadetree mechanic. If those are his own words it sounds like he doesn't know anything about VWs. What the hell is a 1.8 exhaust anyways? A T4 header from a 1.8 liter? Your hot running issue is most likely from timing or A/F ratio. Get some good gauges and have a professional with a wideband tune your engine properly.

I read on and noticed that you mentioned how the engine ran better with the filter off. Maybe someone else can chime in, but I think your mixture may be rich. Also, your Bus will never be faster unless you have the gearing changed in your trans. You'll need an engine that can handle the longer final drive. In a stock engine, a 100 swap, IMO is a bad decision. It moved your powerband higher than before, causing the bottom end that you needed to be softer.

Fri May 23, 2014 1:33 pm

Yeah, A W100 in an otherwise stock engine wohnt do much good, except create a rougher idle. If the heads have been decently massaged the midrange and "upper" end power should be somewhat better. The stock muffler will limit it though. I´m affraid you´ve been ripped a bit.
If it runs better with the filter off, you are either running rich as suggested or your filter is clogged.
A stock muffler wohnt make it run hot at easy driving. Putting some load on it, and its a different story.

You need to ask this guy what he did to this engine, exactly. Then we can guide you.
The BP 1 3/8" header/muffler is OK. but since its a bus I would get the CB version as it sits way better.

T

Fri May 23, 2014 3:57 pm

Got any pictures? Yes Dual port heads have 2 holes single ports have 1 also the intake manifolds are different. This is what my 1971 VW Bus engine looked like before I put on Dual Carbs, Note the Dual Port Intake manifolds with the orange boots and the oil bath air cleaner.
Dual Port Head,
Single Port Head,
Do you have a paper air cleaner: perhaps it needs a new element! If you have the OIl Bath when is the last time it had the dirt cleaned out and the oil changed. Perhaps the Air cleaner housing has a bad thermostat and is pulling too much hot air?
This style of fan shroud is called the Doghouse fan shroud These started in 1971 and cool much better. Here is an example of a non doghouse fan shroud http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1426467
Hope this helps.