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grizzard Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:47 am

Hey guys I am having a front brake issue I can't seem to figure out. It all started when the left front wheel cylinder started leaking. I replaced the shoes and wheel cylinders on both sides and went to bleed it and found no pressure at the bleeders, so I replaced the master. I still had no pressure so I replaced it again and still no pressure so I ordered a new trw still no pressure? What is goin on here? Can't be 3 bad masters could it? I have the shoes adjusted correctly and the back is grabbing great. There is no air in the system and fluid just dribbles out of the cylinders.

Dale M. Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:04 am

Change flex hoses?... They do go bad and deteriorate from inside and pinch off flow of fluid to wheel cylinders...

Dale

tripicana Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:08 am

Also make sure you thougholy bench bleed the master.

ORANGECRUSHer Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:51 am

Yeah bench bleeding the master adequately, IMO, can make or break ya with these.

grizzard Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:10 am

It has ss brake lines on it and I thought maybe that was it so I threw an extra line on it, had the same issue. I have run lots of fluid though it and bled it at the output at the master and at the bleeder screw. The rear circuit bleeds imediatly, but no pressure from the front at all unless you stomp on the brake pedal then it will shoot some fluid. I guess if both the front hoses were bad it wouldnt hold pressure in one good one. Maybe I will try plugin one of the holes in the master and see if that works.

Axitech Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:01 pm

By no pressure, are you saying 'soft pedal', or no flow out of bleeder? Did you adjust the brakes correctly after installing them? If they aren't adjusted, you will never get them bled because all your fluid movement will be eaten up trying to seat them against the drums.

grizzard Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:21 pm

The fluid dribbles out of the bleeder no pressure, but the pedal feels good. I adjusted the brakes nice and tight just to make sure and still no pressure. Looked in the adjustment hole and noticed the cylinders aren't even moving. The Master is just not creating pressure in the front brake circuit. If I plug off one side of the master one brake will work it just isnt creating enough pressure for some reason and this is the 3rd master I have tried. I ordered a old style master with one circuit to see if that works.

HERC Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:42 pm

maybe the lines from the master have crap in them. Disconnect the lines from the wheel cylinders and see if you can pump fluid from them.

dustymojave Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:53 pm

HERC wrote: maybe the lines from the master have crap in them. Disconnect the lines from the wheel cylinders and see if you can pump fluid from them.

X2

If no fluid out the end of the flex line, disconnect the flex line at the near end and try again. Keep working back toward the master until you have pressure and squirt. The item in between pressure and no pressure is the problem.

grizzard Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:31 pm

There is fluid just no pressure usually when I pop open a bleeder especially on the front fluid comes out with some pressure. I pulled the lines and blew air threw them and they are clean and clear and like I said they are stainless steel braided lines not junky rubber stockers.

jsturtlebuggy Mon Jun 02, 2014 3:15 pm

Are you bleeding the front circuit first?
On a dual master cylinder it the way it is suppose to be done.

Q-Dog Mon Jun 02, 2014 6:23 pm

New shoes and wheel cylinders? I suspect the wheel cylinders are not compressed enough. Tighten up all of the adjusters (2 per wheel) until you can't turn the wheels ... then try to bleed.

grizzard Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:32 am

I tried to bleed the front first and it didnt work. Also I have the front brakes very tight so I dont think thats the problem. I am getting a single circuit brake master today I will tell you guys how it goes. I just gotta keep on eye on the wheel cylinders if I spring a leak and run out of fluid I am dead in the water with brakes.

HERC Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:59 am

what about the reservoir feed. anything unusual about that ? did you do anything to the reservoir, clog it

Obviously, something changed right here

I replaced the shoes and wheel cylinders on both sides

grizzard Wed Jun 04, 2014 2:38 pm

Ok guys put a pressure gage on the brake line and the master is not making any pressure on the front circuit. I ordered a early single circuit master to try it and found that you need a different reservoir to use the thing so I am gonna try one more time to order the correct master for it. Where should I get the master from and what brand? The first two were from carquest so not going there and the last one was from General Parts in Alb and it is a TRW so no go there.

Dale M. Wed Jun 04, 2014 6:38 pm

Try a online VW parts house... They ususlly stock stuff that works.....

My usual first choice is.....

www.cip1.com

Dale

grizzard Thu Jun 05, 2014 7:28 am

You think the large diameter master for disc brake conversions would provide more pressure? This thing has the big wheel cylinders on the back?

HERC Thu Jun 05, 2014 7:35 am

grizzard wrote: the left front wheel cylinder started leaking.
I replaced the shoes and wheel cylinders on both sides and went to bleed it and found no pressure at the bleeders, so I replaced the master.

Still wondering why you replaced the already working master.
Somethings wrong with the functioning of your new wheel cylinders

grizzard Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:48 am

Wheel cylinders are good. The problem is the master is not making pressure on the front brake circuit. I put a pressure gauge on the master and it is just not making pressure. Has to be a problem with the internals.

Q-Dog Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:38 pm

It's just not possible for all of those masters to be bad. Bench bleed and verify the master is good before putting it in the car. It isn't usually necessary, but it sure does narrow down the issue.

How about brake push rod length? If the rod is too long, the master can't replenish fluid so can't pump fluid. Get your Bently and do the brake pedal stop and push rod adjustment procedure.



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