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Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:26 pm

I am working on a type 3 in a modified vehicle
How does the oil level tube attach to the engine block.......can I loosen it to "tip " it towards the back of the vehicle .....Is this tube press fit ; or held in with a bolt ; screw ; glue ?????

Where"s Bobnotch when you need him ? :D

Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:38 pm

It is bolted to the case and not movable.

Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:40 pm

It's bolted to this opening you see here and is not adjustable:

The Type 3 tube is not shown installed here, maybe someone has a better photo.
The tube:

Fri Jun 13, 2014 6:51 am

Thankyou , EverettB....
."It's bolted to this opening " "and is not adjustable"........... :twisted: CUT ; turn ; weld ; :twisted:

...You have shown me an option ; might just cut and add 135 degree plumbing elbow to top length

Great photos thanks for taking the time 8)
Shout out to Boo Zoo ; you got one of these tubes ??? ..pm me $

Fri Jun 13, 2014 7:06 am

grandpa pete wrote: ...You have shown me an option ; might just cut and add 45 degree plumbing elbow to top length

That's an option...this guy cut and brazed one:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2952272

Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:03 am

Donnie strickland wrote: grandpa pete wrote: ...You have shown me an option ; might just cut and add 45 degree plumbing elbow to top length

That's an option...this guy cut and brazed one:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2952272

If you look at that thread, and the pic posted above by Everett, you'll see that you need to keep the lower tube part flat.
This is because that's where the oil level pools in the dip stick tube. Also note that there's a dimple in the bottom of the tube, as that's to help align the stick in the center of the tube at the bottom. You can cut and turn the upper part, but you need to leave the lower part flat to get an accurate oil level. Personally, I'd look at the lines on the stick part, then adjust the tube above that point. That way you don't mess up the way the stick gets it's reading. :wink:

Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:31 am

Hey GP, if you cut & weld, you need some nice welds. As in the post you do not want engine vibration knocking your dip stick apart.

Fri Jun 13, 2014 10:49 am

eyetzr wrote: Hey GP, if you cut & weld, you need some nice welds. As in the post you do not want engine vibration knocking your dip stick apart.

They actually make a Type 1 dipstick tube adapter for these engines that bolts on where the big tube goes, then you can make your breather cap into a fill cap using a Type 1 setup on the breather, or adapting your T3 breather to take a fill cap. Don't know if this might be practical for what you are doing or not.

Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:38 pm

I saw in the thread above where the guy tried one of those first, and said it was so cheaply made it led him to try something different. I don't know where he bought it.

Just something to consider.

Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:44 pm

The blanking cap and the adapter look to use the same casting; one just is drilled and the tube inserted.

Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:50 pm

I just love that pic of an engine case on what appears to be a nice upholstered chair in someone's living room. "You might be a redneck if...".

Fri Jun 13, 2014 2:33 pm

Tram wrote: I just love that pic of an engine case on what appears to be a nice upholstered chair in someone's living room. "You might be a redneck if...".

I though it was a chair in the garage since there is also a tire next to the chair... then I noticed the draperies in the background. Yep, looks like a red living room to me.

Fri Jun 13, 2014 3:00 pm

Maybe the garage is the living room :popcorn:

Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:07 pm

[quote="Bobnotch"][quote="Donnie strickland"] grandpa pete wrote: ...You have shown me an option ; might just cut and add 45 degree plumbing elbow to top length

If you look at that thread, and the pic posted above by Everett, you'll see that you need to keep the lower tube part flat.

Bob notch ; It looks like I can put a 135 degree plumbing angle 1/2 way up the straight tube . I will be way above the oil level . I will have to modify a dipstick to get one flexible enough to bend around the corners...Check out type 6 post..page 18 interior pieces welded in :D

Sat Jun 14, 2014 5:18 am

[quote="grandpa pete"][quote="Bobnotch"] Donnie strickland wrote: grandpa pete wrote: ...You have shown me an option ; might just cut and add 45 degree plumbing elbow to top length

If you look at that thread, and the pic posted above by Everett, you'll see that you need to keep the lower tube part flat.

Bob notch ; It looks like I can put a 45 degree plumbing angle 1/2 way up the straight tube . I will be way above the oil level . I will have to modify a dipstick to get one flexible enough to bend around the corners...Check out type 6 post..page 18 interior pieces welded in :D

Keep in mind that the stock type 3 dip stick is actually spring loaded. This is to allow different engine heights and manufacturing differences from car to car. :wink:

Sat Jun 14, 2014 5:46 am

I saw early Beetle flat/spring steel dip sticks w/no handle advertised here that should easily flex 45%. Attach your handle and mark your dip stick with 2.5 quarts of oil in the engine! It looks like this panel is gonna hit the road real soon. 8)

Sat Jun 14, 2014 6:53 pm

Mike Fisher ; not so fast , I have to figure out difficult stuff like " how to put the front fenders on " and " how to wire an ignition switch" :shock: :D :D

For those of you following along ;
Final decision on the type3 dipstick adaptation ;
I cut the vertical tube 3 inches down and will put a 135 degree elbow on it . that will bring the tube up to the type3 hatch . I will cut a 4 inch hole in the hatch and put the oil cap in a recessed hole . I will be able to check oil levels AND add oil without removing the hatch

Thankyou to all in the type 3 forum who contributed information and/or ideas to help me.....

Fri Jul 18, 2014 7:36 am

I was reading the Bently manual, and it says to use a special tool to calibrate the dipstick tube at the proper level. you can see the picture with the special tool fastened between the oil pan and the dipstick tube. So does that make it adjustable? the only reason I ask is because my square's dipstick reads full at 3 quarts of oil. The engine has never been rebuilt or modified. Its got 150k+ miles on it. My friend who owned it before dropped the engine to do the clutch and clean the engine bay. When he re-assembled it, could he have bolted the tube at a slightly different angle?

thanks

Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:31 am

Orbison74 wrote: I was reading the Bently manual, and it says to use a special tool to calibrate the dipstick tube at the proper level. you can see the picture with the special tool fastened between the oil pan and the dipstick tube. So does that make it adjustable? the only reason I ask is because my square's dipstick reads full at 3 quarts of oil. The engine has never been rebuilt or modified. Its got 150k+ miles on it. My friend who owned it before dropped the engine to do the clutch and clean the engine bay. When he re-assembled it, could he have bolted the tube at a slightly different angle?

thanks

More than likely you're not getting the spring loaded part working right. Also, these cars only use 2.5 quarts of oil, so IF you have 3 quarts in it, you're over filled. :shock:

I've never used that tool before, and I mainly check the level by adding in the correct amount of oil, then going from there. The big key is to make sure the lower part of the tube is level with the bottom of the case.

Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:55 am

This idea needs work....too heavy

But ; I did learn that an original tube can be threaded inside to fit std 3/4 inch threads

stil looking for lighter alternative ?????...............copper