TheSamba.com :: View topic - Bob's engine build and stupid question thread

Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:27 pm

Camshaft issues. Assembling new engine and am stumped by camshaft bearing configuration. pics below. anybody know why I have more 'tabs' than 'slots' and which saddle gets the two thrust bearings? By this I mean, There are three bearing saddles, and only 5 of the saddle faces have slots for the locating tabs on the bearings, yet every bearing half has the tab.

Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:31 pm

thrust towards the rear, guys should remember that easily :D
file the tab off of the one side of the thrust bearing that doesn't have a corresponding notch in the case.

Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:43 pm

tang..it isant just for breakfast anymore..... thrust on pully end just incase you dont know the rear. and or file a groove in the saddle for the tang.
hey bob(hope I spelled that right) there are no stupid questions...well not if you ask them, if you dont ask them that might be stupid.dont be stupid,ask away. and dont forget to deburr the cam lobe edges!! and use a good cam lube,I like the camshield cb sells.

Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:08 pm

esde wrote: file the tab off of the one side of the thrust bearing that doesn't have a corresponding notch in the case.

mark tucker wrote: file a groove in the saddle for the tang.

Always modified the cheapest part. Remove the tang from the 2nd thrust bearing.

Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:19 pm

Good deal. Thanks guys.

Wed Jun 25, 2014 7:27 am

always modify the cheepest part... thats about the 2nd stupidest thing Ive heard in a while.and the reasoning is????? and the engine cc is???? and the parts oe changed??? and what has been updated so it works&last longer??? I dont think the cheepest part is the cam bearings, there are a few washers that are cheep too,so if you mod the washers it has done nothing for the issue you have. :shock: and you have to do it again,and again and again every 4000-6000 miles( from what I hear thats about as long as these engines are supposed to last) some much less. witch ever part ypu mod make sure it has total clearance so it dosent cause a tight spot anywhere&effup the entire thing.

Wed Jun 25, 2014 7:39 am

Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:15 am

[quote="Glenn"] esde wrote: file the tab off of the one side of the thrust bearing that doesn't have a corresponding notch in the case.
===========================================

I've always found this to work well for that problem.

PS. I think some one is slipping and sliding a little. :P

Sat Jul 05, 2014 2:57 pm

just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct?

Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:04 pm

No. Why would rear be front?

Superman74 wrote: just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct?

Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:23 pm

Superman74 wrote: just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct? Only if you use the taillights for headlights. :D But I guess I have heard people talk about their rear taillights, so maybe there is more than one rear. :-k

Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:26 pm

SBD wrote: Superman74 wrote: just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct? Only if you use the taillights for headlights. :D But I guess I have heard people talk about their rear taillights, so maybe there is more than one rear. :-k

How about the bug that they mounted the body backwards on ?

Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:46 pm

raul arrese wrote: SBD wrote: Superman74 wrote: just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct? Only if you use the taillights for headlights. :D But I guess I have heard people talk about their rear taillights, so maybe there is more than one rear. :-k

How about the bug that they mounted the body backwards on ? #-o CRAP! Maybe they did that to all of the ones they sold. All of the ones we have are backwards! The engine is supposed to be in the front! We need to fix them as fast as we can! :shock: Damn it! More work to do! :x

Sat Jul 05, 2014 9:18 pm

mid engine's ..... crap were screwed now..... :shock: dragster???crap witch end does the slicks go on?? hmm I think one of my front headlights are out :shock: I think all the confision is...hear it comes........somebody .......stuck the gas tank in front and put the engine in the rear. witch remindes me I bought a car one time(well more than one time but this pitickular time) well it had a bumper to bumper warranty.......witch I was surprized to find out ment anything between the front&rear bumper wasent covered :wink: ...thanks honda!!!!

Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:16 am

I ordered a new oil pump. Shadek 26mm, to replace the 30mm unit already in place. The new pump did not come with an o-ring, and the body has a groove for one (I assume) although the groove is not nearly as wide or deep as the one in the old 30mm pump. So, looking at the pics below

what do you all think? Does the new pump require an o-ring, or a gasket? Is the top, shown with the old pump, usable with the new pump, or do I need to get a new top?
Thanks, Bob

EDIT TO AD: Also , the new pump's shaft's do not intrude into the lid, the old one did. Does this make a difference? In case you can't tell the top pic is the new pump, and the bottom pic is the old 30mm pump and lid. The engine is full-flowed.

Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:20 am

No oring, and I have not used a gasket for a while, just a smear of curil or whatever case sealer you use. The groove that you see is so the suction side of the pump gears can scavenge any oil that is weeping out of the cover. That is why there is the short passage to the gears. Be careful to not fill the groove with shmutz and you will be fine. SD

Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:25 pm

esde wrote: No oring, and I have not used a gasket for a while, just a smear of curil or whatever case sealer you use. The groove that you see is so the suction side of the pump gears can scavenge any oil that is weeping out of the cover. That is why there is the short passage to the gears. Be careful to not fill the groove with shmutz and you will be fine. SD

Schmutz is all I ever use.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:51 pm

Ok, moving forward tonight. Removed piston rings, and installed pistons and jugs, torqued the cylinders down with the head tool in place, took measurements.
1 .014
2 .014
3 .014
4 .013

heads going on are ACN's L-5 from DRD as soon as they arrive. I know there may be some missing info there, but what can you all tell me about needing to shim the jugs, or not needing to?
crank is 74mm, p&c kit is 92 thick wall, heads are being cut to 94mm . use is "street only, and leaning heavily to highway speeds" running 89 octane gas.

Second part: What compression ratio should I be shooting for to get maximum dependability out of the motor. Power is nice, not having to rebuild a grenaded motor is a LOT nicer! Thanks, Bob

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:30 pm

hill wrote: esde wrote: No oring, and I have not used a gasket for a while, just a smear of curil or whatever case sealer you use. The groove that you see is so the suction side of the pump gears can scavenge any oil that is weeping out of the cover. That is why there is the short passage to the gears. Be careful to not fill the groove with shmutz and you will be fine. SD

Schmutz is all I ever use.

Not sure what "schmutz" is but don't do what I did and look it up in the Urban Dictionary! On my last engine I just went with the dry thin paper gasket but it does get some oil there at the bottom of the pump seeping through.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:36 pm

Axitech wrote: Ok, moving forward tonight. Removed piston rings, and installed pistons and jugs, torqued the cylinders down with the head tool in place, took measurements.
1 .014
2 .014
3 .014
4 .013

heads going on are ACN's L-5 from DRD as soon as they arrive. I know there may be some missing info there, but what can you all tell me about needing to shim the jugs, or not needing to?
crank is 74mm, p&c kit is 92 thick wall, heads are being cut to 94mm . use is "street only, and leaning heavily to highway speeds" running 89 octane gas.

Second part: What compression ratio should I be shooting for to get maximum dependability out of the motor. Power is nice, not having to rebuild a grenaded motor is a LOT nicer! Thanks, Bob

It's all determined by what compression ratio you want which is determined by the cam your using. Need to know the cc on those heads, think it's 60cc though. Nice choice in heads! Probably just a 20 thousandths under cylinder shim will be about right for your engine. I set my cr to be 8.5:1. http://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html Probably need 30 to 40 thousandths shims if your running regular in it. The calculator is saying 30 shims for a total of .014+.030=44 thousandths is 8.6:1.