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Thu Jul 03, 2014 12:54 pm

I just install a new master cylinder on my 63 bug that came from Wolfburgwest.. The problem I'm having is the hard lines are not fitting... It's like there to small... I call Wolfburg and they said well maybe someone changed out the hard lines? I sure don't see why that would be possible my thought was the cylinder screw holes were tapped to big in the new one.. Anyone had this problems , suggestions etc? Thx

Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:17 pm

Leave the part loose and make all connections before you tighten anything might have to tweak lines to get them started . If you are switching from single to dual you will have to bend the lines to make it fit.

Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:22 pm

Buy replacement front lines. They are easy to change and if the new ones fit, you know you have bought a too-customized car.

You are saying the fittings won't torque into place, right? Threads too small?

Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:15 pm

So your existing fittings ARE going into the bores enough to thread, but the threads are tapped too big, or are the bores just too big? Can you measure the bores with something or show a picture in comparison to your old one? Are you using the OG lines or where are the lines from?

I noticed that WW started using a different source for some of their parts, a while back. This really pisses me off! I bought a German d/c master from them last year for my '67 Ghia. It was not the same one I usually buy from them. It was a new company and much cheaper looking. This new master was nothing short of a bitch to install. Didn't fit the same, didn't bleed the same. Doesnt feel the same as the old ones. Some of my lines would not fit inside it tight enough to seal. I had to make a couple runs to Knechts for different lines.

Fri Jul 04, 2014 8:47 am

Yeah what im saying is I can not get any of the hardlines to fit into the new master cylinder... Its like my threads are to small for the new cylinder.
The look to be the original lines from what I can tell at least if not they havent been changed for several years.. Car hasnt been customized its bone stock bought it from a little old lady...lol
I messed with it for about a hour yesterday trying each one with no luck !

Fri Jul 04, 2014 9:21 am

Zundfolge1432 wrote: Leave the part loose and make all connections before you tighten anything might have to tweak lines to get them started . If you are switching from single to dual you will have to bend the lines to make it fit.

the above advice in bold should be adhered too. start the fitting of the flare nut (nut on the hard line) BEFORE tightening down the master. this allows movement to allow you to best line up the nut to the threaded hole.

it can be extremely difficult to refit hard lines, leaving the master loose can help a lot. besure to NOT do any bending that will cause permanent deformation of the line during removal, as that will help with install.

also make sure the new master is same as far as fitting location as the old one. there are many style of master cylinders, you may have the wrong one

Fri Jul 04, 2014 9:38 am

I will loosen up the master cylinder tomorrow and try that and see if that might work.. Its puzzling cuz I have never ran into this problem before

Sat Jul 05, 2014 2:01 pm

Zundfolge1432 wrote: Leave the part loose and make all connections before you tighten anything might have to tweak lines to get them started . If you are switching from single to dual you will have to bend the lines to make it fit.

Thanks for that advise... It worked! I removed the cylinder and fitted the lines first what a bitch! Still took like 30 mins or so to start them but I finally got them.. Never had that problem before.. Thx all for advise sure way better than I got from Wolfburg West!

Sat Jul 05, 2014 5:02 pm

Yep, I also do that, keep it loose, tighten the fittings by hand several turns. I also do my darndest NOT to bend the lines when I unscrew them and take out/install the MC. I always use a flare wrench for initial loosening and final tightening too.

Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:07 pm

Another problem ran into ... Master cylinder installed now can't get the peddle to pump up... Have bled lines not getting air etc and no brake peddle.. Peddle still going to floor... Solution ? Thx

Tue Jul 08, 2014 4:59 pm

Tried brakes again still no peddle

Tue Jul 08, 2014 6:18 pm

Make sure you're adjusting the brake shoes all the way out to the drum before you bleed the brakes, if you don't then you'll play absolute hell getting all the air out of the lines after a master cylinder replacement. After you finally get a good firm pedal, then you can go back and back the shoes off from the drums properly. Another thing that works rather well after a master replacement: put the front of the car up on ramps or jack it up so the front wheels are off the floor, top off the reservoir, then crack open all the bleeder screws and gravity bleed the system... be sure to not let the reservoir go empty while doing this.

Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:01 pm

first thing first, make sure you have the correct free play in the brake pedal. if the pedal is resting on the master cylinder piston at rest you will never get the brakes bled.

so free play first. if that's good, then fill up the reservoir, jack front of car up really high, open both rear wheel bleeders, then give the brake pedal a slight push with your finger, and let it up very slowly. now sit back and watch for a while. when you start getting a nice steady drop of brake fluid out of each bleeder close them off. for a while you will see a drop of fluid and some slight spitting when air comes out.

once the rear is done, then bleed the ENTIRE brake system.

NOTE: before you start the gravity bleed you should adjust ALL brake shoes out fully against the drums!!

Wed Jul 09, 2014 11:56 am

Did you bench bleed the master? I had a hell of time getting good pedal feel when I did mine and I tried several different methods of bleeding (two man method, powerbleeder, mighty-vac, reverse bleed, gravity bleed). It was only after I bench bled the hell out of the master cylinder did I start to get good pedal feel, after that bleeding each wheel was a breeze.

You can bench bleed the master in the car, just find some adapters that fit master cylinder thread fittings. I went to a store that specializes in hydraulic fittings. I can't remember the brake fitting size, I think its M10x1.0, but double check. Once I found an adapter that fit the brake line on the master, I screwed a barb fitting onto the end of the adapter then ran a tube from the fitting into the reservoir and pumped for a while, lots of air came out.