TheSamba.com :: View topic - Brake pedal

Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:08 pm

We installed the pedals on our pan last night but something doesn't seem correct. We took lots of photos before deconstruction and think that we have everything back together correctly. But why does the brake pedal want to lean back so far into the cab? I realize the plunger is not installed into the MC, but there is no connection there - it just simply pushes the pump on the MC. What is to keep the pedal from leaning back like in the photo even with the MC installed? Did we do something wrong? What are we missing?

BTW, ignore the clutch pedal. We have it leaning forward so it doesn't unhook from the clutch cable.

Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:50 pm

There is a stop bracket that bolts to the floor behind the brake pedal. I see something installed behind it but it needs a bolt. If you have installed new floor pans you may have to weld a nut to attach it too. It adjusts forward and back to locate the pedal in the correct place and to keep it from falling forward

Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:53 pm

Looks like your pedal stop plate is not bolted down, or is misadjusted:

Adjust it so the brake pedal is at least 8-1/2" from the bulkhead, and also that you have 1mm clearance at the pushrod (1/4" at the pedal tip).

Fri Jul 04, 2014 2:19 pm

KTPhil wrote: Looks like your pedal stop plate is not bolted down, or is misadjusted:

Adjust it so the brake pedal is at least 8-1/2" from the bulkhead, and also that you have 1mm clearance at the pushrod (1/4" at the pedal tip).

Got it - thanks! Came across a diagram in another thread that helps with adjusting the position of the pedal. When you say 1mm clearance (1/4" at the pedal tip) I'm not sure what to measure? 1 mm of the tip of the push rod when its through the bulkhead wall? We will be installing a dual MC that came with the EMPI kit to replace the original single in our 66

Fri Jul 04, 2014 2:24 pm

AZ66Bug wrote: KTPhil wrote: Looks like your pedal stop plate is not bolted down, or is misadjusted:

Adjust it so the brake pedal is at least 8-1/2" from the bulkhead, and also that you have 1mm clearance at the pushrod (1/4" at the pedal tip).

Got it - thanks! Came across a diagram in another thread that helps with adjusting the position of the pedal. When you say 1mm clearance (1/4" at the pedal tip) I'm not sure what to measure? 1 mm of the tip of the push rod when its through the bulkhead wall? We will be installing a dual MC that came with the EMPI kit to replace the original single in our 66

Yes, 1mm is measured (or felt) at the tip of the rod. It is easier to measure it by pushing the pedal by hand (not with your foot) to feel when it takes up this slack. That measurement is made at the pedal tip and is 1/4."

Fri Jul 04, 2014 6:05 pm

Thanks KTPhil

Waiting on a replacement MC. The one from the EMPI kit leaked where the fluid comes in from the reservior. They are replacing it.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 9:51 am

Something to consider about that leaky master... many times it's the pipe, the grommet, or the lack of a washer under the rubber. The configuration changed over the years, so I can't advise what yours needs, but it's worth looking over and searching threads here for your symptom. Some need it, some don't. You can see the variety in these Bug and Type 3 masters below.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:12 am

AZ66Bug wrote: Thanks KTPhil

Waiting on a replacement MC. The one from the EMPI kit leaked where the fluid comes in from the reservior.

A strong suggestion for you is to lose the EMPI MC. Buy a good German MC made by ATE or other European company. I bought a cheaper Brazilian MC when I didn't know any better years ago. It didn't last long and ruined my pan paint when it suddenly leaked all the fluid out while it was parked.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:54 pm

Thanks for the heads up. Thank goodness yours leaked when parked and not while you were driving!

Got the kit from JBugs and they tell me the one in the EMPI kit is not available separately. So, they are supposedly sending me a dual for a standard beetle. Really have no idea what that is but no doubt a cheap import one from south of here :) Will give this one a chance first, but your advice is making me think we should do this right the first time. I see the German ones are nearly $200 and the knock-0ff less than $40. Suppose that tells you something right there.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:38 pm

AZ66Bug wrote: Thanks for the heads up. Thank goodness yours leaked when parked and not while you were driving!

Got the kit from JBugs and they tell me the one in the EMPI kit is not available separately. So, they are supposedly sending me a dual for a standard beetle. Really have no idea what that is but no doubt a cheap import one from south of here :) Will give this one a chance first, but your advice is making me think we should do this right the first time. I see the German ones are nearly $200 and the knock-0ff less than $40. Suppose that tells you something right there.

I bought my last German one from Wolfsburg West. It was $95 and made by ATE. Zero issues with it.

Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:26 am

Yea I found that one at WW - reasonable deal. I think there were a few on Cip1 that were in the $200 neighborhood.

Sun Jul 06, 2014 2:02 pm

We are going to pickup one of those German MCs from WW. We plan to keep the stock drums in the rear and add EmPI disc to the front. We we need to add a residual valve for the rear line?