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Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:19 am

The far left rear v looks factory. The 3 to the right look like po.

Assuming the single vac distributor install from bus depot 180 degrees rotated for the vac can is correct from prior owner. When the rotor is pointing toward 1 the old 3 and the hole is in the left case hole the 2 middle marks appear to be tdc and 4 degees after. The flywheel hole in case hole is in the middle with second middle mark to the right at 4 degrees after.

Please look at the pic. Does that seem correct? What mark do i time to 10 degress after. Left of 0 on timing scale? [/img]

The factor v so far away makes me nervous like i did valves adjsutment wrong but than the rotor says otherwise. I have it running. So must not be far off.

Also the thermostat cable pulls the flap arm down when hot (expanded)?

Thanks guys. Im reading and reading cant find this info. Seems this pully is less common style

Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:31 am

The mark on the shroud side of the belt is the correct one, no idea what those other ones are for. Set it to 32*BTDC like this: busdaddy wrote:
Here's my timing for noobs rundown (keep in mind this assumes you have a degree wheel, timing scale or dial advance timing light and know where TDC really is, if you don't understand the marks on your type 1 pulley read this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251672&highlight=stock+pulley+marks ).

If you only have one hose attached to your distributor pull it off, you don't need to cap it (no need on single hose systems), if you have 2 pull them both off but plug the one that was connected to the nipple facing the distributor (retard). Now connect the timing light to the battery and the #1 plug wire according to the timing light instructions (and set it to zero if it's the type with adjustments). Now start the engine and shoot the timing light at the scale and pulley (hold the light in your right hand), see the mark on the pulley?, good. Now using your left hand slowly open the throttle on the side of the carb or throttle body (move it the same way the cable pulls it) and watch the timing mark VS: the scale, the mark on the pulley should start to move to the left, open the throttle a little more and continue until the mark no longer moves to the left any more (yes it's loud, isn't it?), give it a bit more throttle just to confirm the mark is staying put at wherever it stopped (hopefully 28 degrees) and then release the throttle. If it stopped at 28 move on to carb/FI adjustment, if it went past or didn't make it all the way loosen the distributor clamp a little and turn the distributor a few degrees one way or the other (you pick, if it's worse go the other way), repeat until you find the happy spot and don't forget to tighten the clamp when you are done (make sure the distributor is pushed down all the way into the case too). Avoid loose fitting clothing and long hair near spinning fans and belts too, no need for a trip to emergency. Now put the hose back on, pack up the timing light and move on to carb or FI adjustment.

As for the thermostat the cable pulls the lever forward and down against the spring when cold and lets it go back/up when warm.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:00 am

Your valves should be fine, any crank position within 90° of TDC is okay for setting them

As for timing. Your timing mark is the little "V" on the forward pulley rim, the rest of the marks have been added by a PO and are not factory. You don't line anything up with the bolt, it solely holds the timing scale and fan screen in place. The degree marks on the timing scale are what you align the timing mark with.

You need to time your engine for the dizzy you are running and not to the original specs for the engine. Using the method mentioned by Busdaddy is best.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:32 am

Ok. Understand so far. I did have to move the timing to bottom out at 28 ( left of 0 on scale.

I think the middle marks are tdc ect..... My concern now is valve adjustment.

On #3 left valve at rear engine side coming out (closing) and right valve starting in to open ( tdc top of compression #1 ???) if so than its adding up to my valve adjustment is correct. Is there a distance measurement to the right of timing mark to confirm tdc with another variable.

Moving the timing to 28 will not idle but these are new redlines from aircoooled.net. I have to order sync tool and move to that later. I got the linkage sync by feel.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:39 am

carltoncleans wrote: Ok. Understand so far. I did have to move the timing to bottom out at 28 ( left of 0 on scale.
Revved up with the hoses off or idling?

Determining which cylinder to work on when setting valves isn't hard if the engine runs, when the rotor in the distributor is pointing to the electrode in the distributor cap that cylinders wire connects to it's the one to adjust.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 12:22 pm

What methods of heat monitoring should i do and approximately how long does it take to start seeing the air flaps open?

Sat Jul 05, 2014 12:32 pm

carltoncleans wrote: What methods of heat monitoring should i do and approximately how long does it take to start seeing the air flaps open?
This time of year the thermostat should open in 10 minutes or less, drive it a couple miles and quickly run around back and have a look.

As for monitoring there's many options, an oil temp gauge is a good start (if you do that get a pressure gauge too) or even better a CHT gauge. One of those hand held laser thermometer guns from Harbor frieght is a handy thing to have and a long meat/candy thermometer from Walmart that fits down the dipstick tube is $10 well spent.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 12:57 pm

I took the vac hose off and got rpms ups and 28 timing. I did have to adjust timing. I adjusted the idle stop screw and im getting idle. Its seems normal but will get dwell meter on. There is a little popping but im def getting closer.

I do not think the air flap is opening i pulled cable slack out the best i could but the cable has seen better days. Im just going to order another one thermostat with cable. I also noticed if i push the flap open to far it gets suck. Hopefully the new thermostat and cable will open flap fully with out sticking. My list is long enough. Lol. Happy its moving.

Anyone have a recommendation of someone is washington dc area to get my front end working the best it can. Its solid but seems sloppier than i remember 20 yrs ago.

Sat Jul 05, 2014 1:05 pm

There is an oil pressure sensor or something similar on top of block right side im intending to get a gage for once i figure it out.

For now while testing opening th flap to the stuck position so air if flowing like the thermostat is fully expanded makes sense for now to be safe.

What do o do with the oil case breather hole on top of the case

Sat Jul 05, 2014 2:40 pm

The breather is best run into the top of the air cleaner(s). You want good slope to the hose so the crud will drain back into the engine once you turn her off. Any "S" traps in the hose are going to become clogged with crud over time causing oil to blow out of the case any place it can.

The flaps are opened by the spring shown in your pic. The thermostat closes them when cold. If the bellows of the thermostat draw in tight when cold the thermostat is good. You can get a new cable made up at your local bicycle shop.

The stock oil pressure switch sits just to the front of the dizzy and is hidden under the tin. There should be a rubber boot to be seen with a wire running up through it.

Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:52 pm

Got the dwell to 50 but cant get the timing and carbs right. Lots of popping and flat spots at high rpm. When reving to get timing at 28 the motor runs worse.

I have all idle mix screws set to 3 turns out and adjusting in 1/4 turn at a time does not seems to change the amount of popping.

Anyone in washington dc with a clue please reach out i need some help from someone with experience. Had flames at carb air cleaner a few times when messing with mix screw.

Sun Jul 20, 2014 3:29 pm

carltoncleans wrote: On #3 left valve at rear engine side coming out (closing) and right valve starting in to open ( tdc top of compression #1 ???) if so than its adding up to my valve adjustment is correct. Is there a distance measurement to the right of timing mark to confirm tdc with another variable.

Lets go back here and try and figure out what isn't right. The cylinders are positioned this way on the engine

Front of Car

-3 - - 1-
- - - - -
-4 - - 2-

Rear of Car

Neither valve should be moving when you are anywhere near TDC for the cylinder you are adjusting.

Sun Jul 20, 2014 3:38 pm

carltoncleans wrote: Lots of popping and flat spots at high rpm.
I'm guessing either of these 2 tools isn't familiar to you?

Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:41 pm

Firet thing i did was sync air flow. I that must have been mentioned. Not a very helpful post.

Dwell a d timing arr right.

I found a local old timer and ralked about my problem. He said the same thing. Darn lean. He said check your jets. I ordered the jet uograde from aircooled.net. They have 115 in there. Old time said that sounds stock. He has a type one with 160 and 180.

Where are you and what size are u running. Maybe thee jets are my issue.

Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:24 pm

I found aircooled.net's write up on jets. The info confirms what the old timer said. 40x4.2. Try from there to hone in elevation influence. Plus both of my jets are the same which does not seem like a typical set up. I only checked one carb. Checking the other now to see if maybe only one carb jets were not changed.

Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:24 pm

carltoncleans wrote: Firet thing i did was sync air flow. I that must have been mentioned. Not a very helpful post. .
At idle as well as at ~2000 RPM held there with the throttle cable? Or just at idle?

Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:42 pm

Right now just at idle because of all the popping and flat spots. Same with timing only at idle at 8 btdc just like john said at aircooled.net. Really sounds like jets are too small. Cbperformance website says 115 is stock with a 2.00 for air jet. Aircooled changed the air jet to 115 as well. Mayb they have a reason bit right now that seems like my issue

Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:48 pm

Opps. Just remembered its dual barrel. So both 115 are fuel jet. I need to find the air jet location.

Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:07 pm

Cool. First time looking at a jet.

200/f11/115. I need to know what fuel jet guys would start with in a 1800 with most driving less than 1000ft. Than get a jet kit for traveling

Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:13 pm

Get jets in the next several sizes larger. You might start by going up two steps, but once you are close only do one step at a time.