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Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:14 pm

I picked up a beater Syncro a few weeks ago. I'm going to do some work on the engine & try to get it going, but the PO robbed a few things, including the ECU.

Does anyone have the correct ECU p/n for this & will a standard 2wd Vanagon ECU be ok?

They also removed all the relays & fuses at the fuse box. Guess I need a wiring diagram to figure that out :?

Thx :D

Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:44 pm

A late 85 or later with 2.1 eng) should work ok. (ECU) U need a Bently manusl, it will show relay #'s & locations, fuse size/amps in each location also.Dont have nos handy right now.

Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:51 pm

It says #025 906 022 on the one from my beater Syncro!

Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:55 pm

Ok thanks

Going to get that OEM manual as well. I had the factory manual for my old 77 bus.

Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:04 pm

I noticed a couple of open plugs. Does anyone know if it's missing part of the harness? Also, anyone have a pic of a fuse block with everything in it?

Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:52 pm

I think the top two pics are the connector to the Hall sensor on the back of the distributor. I don't know what the one near the alternator is for , but it is open on mine.

Hope that's a start.

Mark

Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:13 am

is there a bolt missing on your bellhousing? the steel water pipes mounting on the left side of the water pipe assy. , it gets bolted to the bellhousing.

Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:43 am

Yeah. The AC compressor is bolt-less too.

Question - on that missing bellhousing bolt, below it has a vac line or something going into the bell.

Is that the rear diff locker?

Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:01 am

tjet wrote: Yeah. The AC compressor is bolt-less too.

Question - on that missing bellhousing bolt, below it has a vac line or something going into the bell.

Is that the rear diff locker?

Yeah, that looked like it was just a vent line. It seems all the vent lines are routed to sit on top of the fuel tank to keep the ends away from dirt? Unfortunately there is as much dirt on top of the tank as anywhere else.
I think they could have just put a rubber plug in there.

Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:05 am

tjet wrote: Yeah. The AC compressor is bolt-less too.

Question - on that missing bellhousing bolt, below it has a vac line or something going into the bell.

Is that the rear diff locker?

the rear diff locker is located right below the starter motor which makes it a pita to get the starter motor out.
it has two vacuum lines going to it and these run across the top of the tranny to a vacuum bottle on the drivers side mounted underneath just fwd of the tranny.
look underneath there and when you say wth is that you found it.

Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:08 am

tjet wrote: Yeah. The AC compressor is bolt-less too.

Question - on that missing bellhousing bolt, below it has a vac line or something going into the bell.

Is that the rear diff locker?

do you know it the mount for the ac compressor is the same across all models or did they change for the 2.1? I've got a mount from a 1.9 and wondering if I have to source a new one.

Sat Jul 12, 2014 3:57 pm

Steve M. wrote: tjet wrote: Yeah. The AC compressor is bolt-less too.

Question - on that missing bellhousing bolt, below it has a vac line or something going into the bell.

Is that the rear diff locker?

do you know it the mount for the ac compressor is the same across all models or did they change for the 2.1? I've got a mount from a 1.9 and wondering if I have to source a new one.

I don't know. This is my 1st vanagon. Looks like a standard compressor tho

Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:51 am

I got a used ecu & some relays from jrobewesty - Thanks

Gonna try to start it up. [-o<

I just noticed the harness to the injectors is missing. Hopefully, it's in the van somewhere

Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:06 pm

On my 87, the ECU harness contains all of the connectors including the injector plugs.

Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:06 pm

if you are not planning to change ALL of the high pressure fuel lines when you try to start it.
at least have a friend with a fire extinguisher and loud voice standing by & ready

good luck,

Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:36 pm

danfromsyr wrote: if you are not planning to change ALL of the high pressure fuel lines when you try to start it.
at least have a friend with a fire extinguisher and loud voice standing by & ready

good luck,

I planing on doing a static leak check before the start attempt. I needed the fuel pump relay so I can get some pressure.

Question - I don't want to put water in the cooling system yet. Is it ok to run it for a min or 2 without water?

Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:58 pm

No. Hook a garden hose up to the inlet. The waterpump impeller needs coolant to keep the seal lubricated. You'd also be surprised how much heat you can generate in a couple minutes. I would not.

Tue Jul 15, 2014 1:06 pm

rsxsr wrote: No. Hook a garden hose up to the inlet. The waterpump impeller needs coolant to keep the seal lubricated. You'd also be surprised how much heat you can generate in a couple minutes. I would not.

Ok - thanks. I was mainly concerned about possible internal water leaks. I guess what I can do is put some water in it & crank it with the plugs out so I can make sure the cylinders are clear

Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:16 pm

I have a question, I am plugging in new fuses & the photo (pic below) I'm using as a reference shows a bigger type fuse to the left of the 20 amp ones. It this a self-reseting fuse? OEM? Thx

Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:12 pm

Fuse box as found:

locations of bits:

index of bits: