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Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:23 pm

I am about to put my motor in my bus, for initial break in. I am running the 40 IDF's that were on my 1776, and now on my 2021. How far out will my jetting be?

Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:25 pm

Cam change will have effect too. It will want to pull more air and fuel, so it will be off, but I would suppose it would work enough for breakin

Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:17 pm

kielbasa wrote: Cam change will have effect too. It will want to pull more air and fuel, so it will be off, but I would suppose it would work enough for breakin

Thanks. What should I expect to get for jets/Venturi's, to set it up correctly?

Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:31 am

Not sure on your currect setup, but the 2 liter will probably do better with 34-36mm vents. You can get custom vents from John Connolly etc. Ive ran his 36s in Spanish 40s and they did awesome. You jetting depends on your elevation, and vents. With 36 vents, I run 55 idle, 155 mains, 200 air at sea level on the 2054. The 28s are too small, if that is what you are currently running.

What CR, cam, heads are you running?

Sat Jul 12, 2014 11:31 am

smitty24 wrote: Not sure on your currect setup, but the 2 liter will probably do better with 34-36mm vents. You can get custom vents from John Connolly etc. Ive ran his 36s in Spanish 40s and they did awesome. You jetting depends on your elevation, and vents. With 36 vents, I run 55 idle, 155 mains, 200 air at sea level on the 2054. The 28s are too small, if that is what you are currently running.

What CR, cam, heads are you running?

Thanks smitty24, It probably still has the 28 vents in there. Good enough for break-in I hope. I live in Seattle and although I am on a hill, I would still consider it sea level. :)

Heads: New AA 40 x 35.5 with stainless steel valves and single hi rev springs.
Cam: Engle 110 cam.
CR: 9:1

I know people were advising against the Engle cam for my bus, but the motor was purchased assembled by a local guy and sold to me by the guy who replied to my other inquiry. Of the options, this was what I could get with my cash on hand.

I am about to put this guy back in:

Sat Jul 12, 2014 1:33 pm

I think that cam is fine with that combo. If it were me, I would run 32s and nothing bigger...since it is a bus and you want lower end power more than top. The 32s will give a nice blend with the 110. That setup could use bigger vents/carbs, but in the bus it wouldnt be as fun. I like smaller vents in buses.

Sat Jul 12, 2014 1:47 pm

smitty24 wrote: I think that cam is fine with that combo. If it were me, I would run 32s and nothing bigger...since it is a bus and you want lower end power more than top. The 32s will give a nice blend with the 110. That setup could use bigger vents/carbs, but in the bus it wouldnt be as fun. I like smaller vents in buses.

Thanks. It has (what are stamped) 60 idles, which I thought would be kind of rich for the 1776. That motor had low compression when I got the carbs for it though, so who knows what kind of jetting the shop had to do.

One other question: On the case, which is the oil outlet: upper or lower? I need to match it with my filter.

*Figured it must be the outlet coming from the pump. My case is full-flowed.

Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:37 pm

60 idles are indeed too rich. You should be in the 47.5 - 50 range for idles. As for the vents 28 are fine. The mains with F11 tubes are likely to be 120 or 125 with a 180-190 air correctors.

Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:47 pm

udidwht wrote: 60 idles are indeed too rich. You should be in the 47.5 - 50 range for idles. As for the vents 28 are fine. The mains with F11 tubes are likely to be 120 or 125 with a 180-190 air correctors.

Thanks udidwht,

Of course once I got it all together, the battery was dead from sitting for months :? Charging it, so I hope to get it broken in tomorrow.

Let me know if there are things to pay attention to. I am running dyno 10-30 oil for the break-in. The plan is to run it @ 2000rpm for 10-15 minutes, and then drain the oil. Good idea to use the ZDDP additive during break-in?

Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:30 am

I always use a non detergent oil for the first 300 miles or so then switch over to an oil with detergent. Use either Valvoline ZR1 or Brad Penn. The use of a non detergent vs detergent based is to prevent washing of the parts during critical break in period.

I see your in Kirkland...Kirkland, Wa. ?

Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:45 am

udidwht wrote:

I see your in Kirkland...Kirkland, Wa. ?

Yep. Got the vintage meet next weekend, and (hopefully) will be droving this bus to it!

Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:20 am

KevinAlbrecht wrote: udidwht wrote:

I see your in Kirkland...Kirkland, Wa. ?

Yep. Got the vintage meet next weekend, and (hopefully) will be droving this bus to it!

Well I'm down the road from you in Renton Highlands.

Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:05 am

You guys must have a higher enough elevation than us in Oregon. We usually have to run 52-55 idles here with 40s and 28s. Its cool if the 50s would work.

Kevin, the oil question you asked= full flow- oil pump OUT goes to IN on filter. OUT on filter goes to upper tapped inlet galley on case, behind crank pulley. Hope that helps if you already didnt figure it out.

Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:16 am

smitty24 wrote: You guys must have a higher enough elevation than us in Oregon. We usually have to run 52-55 idles here with 40s and 28s. Its cool if the 50s would work.

Kevin, the oil question you asked= full flow- oil pump OUT goes to IN on filter. OUT on filter goes to upper tapped inlet galley on case, behind crank pulley. Hope that helps if you already didnt figure it out.

We are slightly higher but not enough to yield much of a change in overall jetting. Here (Renton Highlands) where I'm at I'd say I'm ~ 600 feet above sea level.

Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:18 am

smitty24 wrote: You guys must have a higher enough elevation than us in Oregon. We usually have to run 52-55 idles here with 40s and 28s. Its cool if the 50s would work.

Kevin, the oil question you asked= full flow- oil pump OUT goes to IN on filter. OUT on filter goes to upper tapped inlet galley on case, behind crank pulley. Hope that helps if you already didnt figure it out.

Smitty,

Thanks for the insight on the filter. I had thought the LOWER outlet on the case was the engine oil OUT, which corresponds to the filter oil IN, no?

Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:19 pm

It's running, albeit very poorly. Struggle to get it to fire-up, and once it is, it is popping like crazy out of the drivers side carb & the exhaust & is having absolutely no throttle response.

So it is a timing issue. I have a pertronix ignightor ignition replacement that I have run for years in my 1776.

- It is running, so I don't believe that is fried.
- The builder set the valves. I didn't check. I am guessing that is my first mistake (of many).

So what do you guys think? They are chrome-moly pushrods, so I was told they are set at a loose zero or .001". My inclination is to check the valves, but this is the first I've dug into setting up a motor from new in almost 13 years.

I have been hesitant to let it run while fiddling with it, since I am am supposed to be breaking in the cam @ 2000 rpm.

Any insights would be great. I have a show next week, & it would suck not to drive this there.

Sun Jul 13, 2014 6:08 pm

KevinAlbrecht wrote: It's running, albeit very poorly. Struggle to get it to fire-up, and once it is, it is popping like crazy out of the drivers side carb & the exhaust & is having absolutely no throttle response.

So it is a timing issue. I have a pertronix ignightor ignition replacement that I have run for years in my 1776.

- It is running, so I don't believe that is fried.
- The builder set the valves. I didn't check. I am guessing that is my first mistake (of many).

So what do you guys think? They are chrome-moly pushrods, so I was told they are set at a loose zero or .001". My inclination is to check the valves, but this is the first I've dug into setting up a motor from new in almost 13 years.

I have been hesitant to let it run while fiddling with it, since I am am supposed to be breaking in the cam @ 2000 rpm.

Any insights would be great. I have a show next week, & it would suck not to drive this there.

The builder should have already broke the cam in. What jets are in there now? Fuel pressure? Switch carbs from one side to another?

Sun Jul 13, 2014 6:27 pm

udidwht wrote:

The builder should have already broke the cam in. What jets are in there now? Fuel pressure? Switch carbs from one side to another?

When I was doing a final cleanup before putting it back in the bus, I took one of the idle gets as I was blowing it out and it was either a 50 or 60. My eyes are getting old. I also am running a new summit fuel pressure regulator w/guage. It is stumbling so bad that I haven't checked the pressure.

I don't think the break in has happened. This engine hasn't been fired until now. They valves are supposed to be set already, so I am stumped.

Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:30 pm

KevinAlbrecht wrote: udidwht wrote:

The builder should have already broke the cam in. What jets are in there now? Fuel pressure? Switch carbs from one side to another?

When I was doing a final cleanup before putting it back in the bus, I took one of the idle gets as I was blowing it out and it was either a 50 or 60. My eyes are getting old. I also am running a new summit fuel pressure regulator w/guage. It is stumbling so bad that I haven't checked the pressure.

I don't think the break in has happened. This engine hasn't been fired until now. They valves are supposed to be set already, so I am stumped.

If the regulator is of the 'dial' type they are notoriously inaccurate. Replace it with a Holley low pressure regulator (no dial). Less than 4 psi. Use a magnifying glass to check the jet sizes. Are you certain the jets weren't reamed?

Mon Jul 14, 2014 1:23 am

recheck firing order!