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  View original topic: Stroker Engine Cooling
jacobpv Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:07 pm

I just picked up a 2332 stroker for my 1961 rag top bug and was wondering what kind of cooling systems you guys were receiving the best results from. Pictures of your setup are appreciated
Thanks, Jacob

57 Rag Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:27 pm

I've had the best results with the doghouse cooler along with an external cooler mounted on drivers side between torsion tube and axle. Doesn't get above 230 anymore even in traffic with 9:1 and my 86c. Got some pics I gotta upload.

[img]

Hope this works [/img]

jacobpv Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:24 pm

57 Rag wrote: I've had the best results with the doghouse cooler along with an external cooler mounted on drivers side between torsion tube and axle. Doesn't get above 230 anymore even in traffic with 9:1 and my 86c. Got some pics I gotta upload.

[img]

Hope this works [/img]
Thanks. That's what i was thinking, and do you run a deeper sump for more oil? Sounds like we get a similar set up for engine, but I'm going to be swapping out my 86c cam for an engle fk8 due to the lower compression and better on the street for an every day driver

juki48 Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:27 pm

I have a 2276 turbo and I only use the stock doghouse cooler. stock V belt too. all it needs. oh, I have a 1.5qt sump too.

Glenn Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:44 pm

juki48 wrote: I have a 2276 turbo and I only use the stock doghouse cooler. stock V belt too. all it needs. oh, I have a 1.5qt sump too.
^^^^^^^^
just like him.

2180 with stock doghouse cooler and shroud. All factory tin.. I mean all of it. 1.5qt sump, remote filter, stock fan belt also.


57 Rag Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:06 pm

Yep. I also run a slim line oil sump as well.

mark tucker Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:27 pm

depends on the setup. mine is fine with dogystyle cooler,but I do have an extra cooler on it too. but my engine isant the run of the mill engine. so wide fan,good oil pump(i use 30mm ) deep sump, timing set right ,jetted right.all sealed up so the pumped air is being used for cooling the engine not just leeking out all over the place.keep the used air from recirculating.

VWCOOL Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:38 pm

As with any engine it is the power production that needs cooling - not the capacity. So unless you are WOT on a track for hours at a time, the true (not imagined, or what you heard at the pub) cooling requirements will not be much more than a standard engine's if you are not using the power all the time.

As mentioned by others, make sure all the tin-ware and associate rubber seals are in place! This can be difficult with a late-based engine in an early body due to the narrower hole for the engine.

The lid is an airflow restriction to breathing and cooling on the 50s/60s Verts. You may wish to use stand-offs. The bottom-lift ones will have a similar effect as missing tin - sucking hot air back into the engine bay.

The later Super, 1600 fans are the best-flowing. Please check you have one of these - many have been replaced over the years with earlier, narrower fans source from wrecker's yards. many people do not know - or notice - the subtle difference in dimension between early and late fans.

I have heard good things about the intake venturi-style ring used on EFI fan housings.. but as I have not used one on a performance engine I cannot qualify its effectiveness...maybe you could do some more research

The firewall is also a little closer to the engine on earlier cars - which restricts the entry to the fan, especially with bigger fans spun faster. I have hammered the firewall forward on comp cars - even an extra inch or two will probably a difference (although I have not measured). Whether you want to do this to your Vert...Ummm...!

It's good that you are thinking ahead, but try installing it first without any extra accessories. It may all work out fine, as it often does.

neil68 Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:45 pm

My street-strip Beetle, 10:1 CR, 94 octane, 2332 cc is cooled by an OEM German FI doghouse system. Oil temps typically stay between 180 and 205 F., but I've seen the odd 210-degree reading. Pretty much similar to stock temps :wink:

Brian Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:26 pm

@57 rag
No fan?

Glenn, Berg filler? and how long has that fuel pump lasted?

jfats808 Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:46 pm

My fair weather dd, 2276 11cr, 86c 48idas. Dh cooler, 3.5 sump and thermostatic controlled 72 pass w/fan. Highest ive seen when ive drived in bumper to bumper is 210. Engine build technique and details come very important at this level.
My cooler is also mounted above to the left of my trans. I used cut emt pipe and longer bolts as spacers for air flow to pass.

57 Rag Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:49 pm

lustig69 wrote: @57 rag
No fan?

Glenn, Berg filler? and how long has that fuel pump lasted?

Are you talking about this one?? If so it's mounted upside down to protect fins. If ur talking about refusal fan I have a Scat one in my shroud.

[img][/img]

Glenn Fri Jul 18, 2014 2:53 am

lustig69 wrote: Glenn, Berg filler? and how long has that fuel pump lasted?
Yes... Berg breather.

The fuel pump is from my old 1904 and must be over 10 years old.

smkn_vw Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:12 am

2276 10.6 CR 48 IDA’s 91/110 50-50 mix / weekend driver
gutted cleaned-up engine bay
stock shroud w/dog cooler
wide balanced fan
chinese tin :D all sealed up
ceramic coated headers (anything helps)
lifted decklid at top (mainly for IDA's)
30 mm berg oil pump
fattest braided oil lines I could go, i don't remember size (braids help dissipate heat)
3.5 qt empi sump without screen
96 pass oil cooler (mounted above trans left side, cooling fins inline with air flow)
- i can't mount fan and thermostat for cooler because clutch cable gets in the way, thought i mentioned this in case you go this route.
normal timing (prefer adv but it's hard to start)
drive it hard
oil temps stay below 210



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