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Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:35 pm

Failing everything else I had to grind off the lower bolt and began drilling it out with cobalt bits... extremely slow, painful going.

There was no way these suckers were coming out -- it really seems like they are welded not just rusted in. I already ground the shocks off as well and nothing could budge the bolt inside the housing where there wasn't even any thread.

Got one side gradually up to 3/8 at least with the drill but the other I just broke off a cobalt bit inside and the other side of the bolt is to close to the wheel mounts to get a drill at.

I've tried heating it up with a torch and nothing loosened except a seal up around the bearings further up started smoking and dripping oil. Great.

Anyone got other suggestions?

Might just bring it somewhere -- If I do, is it OK to drive carefully with NO rear shocks?

Thanks

Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:34 pm

What about welding a piece of bar stock/rod to it and using a pipe cheat? I know those are some rather large bolts, but I'm not sure what the other options are, short of taking an oxy/acetylene torch to it and cutting/melting the whole thing. Have any photos of it?

My understanding from reading on here is that running without shocks should be okay, but the body might tend to 'roll' a bit, so take corners easy.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:52 pm

It should take no more than a couple of minutes to get it nice and hot with a oxy/act rig. The bolt will be out long before any heat gets up to the bearing. You are just wasting your time if you are using a propane torch.

Cheap cobalt bits suck. I have never used the industrial variety, but have not reason to ever buy another hardware store quality cobalt bit. I think I have broken every one that I have ever tried to chuck into a drill motor.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:39 pm

Hmm yes I was using a propane torch which did indeed feel like a waste of time. Would the MAPP torches in a bottle get hot enough? I was told to get one but i cheaped out since I figured i'd only use this once and I'd just hold longer.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 7:55 pm

Oxy/acetylene is where its at. Get the bolt cherry hot and twist it out unless it's sheared off flush then I guess you are hooped. In that case you need to drill the remainder out and re tap the hole.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:20 pm

MrBryan isn't the only one playing with those frozen lower devils.
The good news is there is no need to cut threads, one of my lower
sleeves gave up it's bolt and they appear to be smooth on the inside.
just little bastards

Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:51 pm

MrBryan wrote: Hmm yes I was using a propane torch which did indeed feel like a waste of time. Would the MAPP torches in a bottle get hot enough? I was told to get one but i cheaped out since I figured i'd only use this once and I'd just hold longer.

MAPP will kick ass compared to propane, but I lack experience to know if it will get the eye hot enough quick enough. I suspect it might work though.

Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:19 pm

yup it's very flush, I ground it right down and then some. You can very barely see a seam around the bolt which made me think it had been welded or melted somehow before but I suppose 40 years of tonnage weighing down on rust may do some things.

How did you get yours tim?

Fri Jul 18, 2014 11:48 pm

The front shock studs are locked in with small roll pins. You might want to look carefully for the same in the rear.

Sat Jul 19, 2014 7:09 am

And once you get this fixed....as I have ranted many times before...USE ANTI-SEIZE so it never happens again. Ray

Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:19 am

so I looked at the image and mine. There is no roll pin like the front. Have you tried some Liquid Wrench and then driving it out with a punch or smaller grade 8 bolt used as a punch? Use a lead or brass hammer to prevent mushrooming things. Next try a small hole in the center and one of these so you don't damage the hub - it is cast and pounding on it too hard could break the shock part off:

If that fails a drill is the only way.

Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:17 am

Has anyone tried a nut splitter? Of course, I have the same problem. I decided to postpone further efforts to remove the shocks, but i am ready to try again. I haven't tried the nut splitter yet. Does anyone have any experience or success stories?

John

Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:13 am

johns68doublecab wrote: Has anyone tried a nut splitter? Of course, I have the same problem. I decided to postpone further efforts to remove the shocks, but i am ready to try again. I haven't tried the nut splitter yet. Does anyone have any experience or success stories?

John

I've only used one once. In my experience it worked best with an air gun.

If you have the time. Keep spraying it with rust penetrant, give it some wacks with a hammer to brake the rust ring and give it a try. One day it will come off like it was never seized.

Good luck
Tcash

Thu Aug 06, 2015 11:00 am

John are you trying to loosen up nut #19 then drive that bolt #16 out?

If so - get some of this penetrating oil and put it on today liberally both sides of the nut so it can get into the threads. Then let it sit overnight. Put a little more on and try the nut again. Once the nut is off, put some more on the bolt and let it soak into the bushing that is in the shock that the bolt goes thru. Then hit the bolt straight on, perhaps with the nut on a little to protect the threads, with a brass hammer or lead hammer. If you don't have one you need one. They don't destroy the steel like a steel hammer does when you hit something. Penetrating oil is more than oil. It contains acids and chemicals that break up, and convert red rust and corrosion to more stable forms of iron which take up less space than red rust.